Oil pressure/relief valve

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justfur
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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by justfur » Sat Sep 09, 2017 7:29 pm

Well I didn't blow myself up but........

Got an oil pressure tester to verify the excessive reading on my oil pressure gauge and it gave me a reading of 120 psi.

Because of the crank regrind I thought with the crank rotating the oil would have somewhere to go, so I gave it it's first fire up......and promptly blew the seal out on the filter and vomitted oil out, so I'd say the pressure relief valve is stuck/faulty/goosed.

What is the story with the relief valve in these pumps, should I have checked something before fitting or adjusted anything? This is a new standard oil pump, part no. OP04, purchased from Burtons in May.


Justin.

1976 SE6 no.49 See more here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147918531 ... 463353942/

1963 CV8 Mk1 no.10
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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by peter freeman » Sat Sep 09, 2017 7:32 pm

I would put a drill on the oil pump shaft to see if the oil actually circulates and you don't have a blockage somewhere.



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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by windy » Sat Sep 09, 2017 8:22 pm

You can't beat an original Ford oil pump.
If theres not a lot wrong with your old one you'd be better putting that back in.
If theres scoring on the end plate its easy enough to lap on some glass with a sheet of fine wet & dry lubed with wd40



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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by Oldconn » Sat Sep 09, 2017 8:56 pm

I would direct my enquiries to Burtons, they have a technical advice service, and they supplied the pump which ought to be suitable for the purpose .


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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by justfur » Sat Sep 09, 2017 10:08 pm

peter freeman wrote:
Sat Sep 09, 2017 7:32 pm
I would put a drill on the oil pump shaft to see if the oil actually circulates and you don't have a blockage somewhere.
Didn't want to even imagine that, if there is a blockage it's pretty close to the pump, blew the seal clen off the filter. I'd already run the drill on the pump several times before firing and the filter never leaked.

I'll remove the right rocker cover and see if there's any oil (I hope so!), know more tomorrow.....


Justin.

1976 SE6 no.49 See more here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147918531 ... 463353942/

1963 CV8 Mk1 no.10
1967 TR4A

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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by gtcse8 » Sat Sep 09, 2017 10:14 pm

Oldconn is correct Justin, get on to Burtons and ask them for advice.

Having said that, the relief valve is a simple piston that is regulated by a spring and should not produce any problems.

If your crank has been reground and new bearings fitted were they of the Original pattern??

ALL the shells should have a hole punched in them for the oil flow into the crank even though the internal oilways are only in the block side which pass the oil through the con rods as they rotate.
This ensures that even if the shells are fitted upside down the oil still has a route to go.

Some engines and shells were produced with a specific orientation of the components and if fitted incorrectly would close off these oilways giving your symptoms, but normal Essex shells should not have this problem.


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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by Oaksey » Sat Sep 09, 2017 10:17 pm

I bought an oil pump from Burton that was duff. Swapped it for a NOS one and it sorted the problem straight away. The problem seems to be that the PRV in new ones doesn't have a steel sleeve to slide in and gets caught on the ally casting even though I made it nice and smooth


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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by justfur » Sat Sep 09, 2017 11:00 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Sat Sep 09, 2017 10:14 pm
Oldconn is correct Justin, get on to Burtons and ask them for advice.


If your crank has been reground and new bearings fitted were they of the Original pattern??

Minus 10thou shells supplied by QRG, looked pretty similar to me, and fitted by someone with many years of experience who's my 'go to' engine man, he also honed the bores but the V6 crank would not fit his machine due to it's narrow journals so that was done elsewhere.

I'll take a few measurements on my old pump, as that was working before and it looks fine, just changed as a matter of course for an engine rebuild.

But first I'll check for oil in the rocker cover.


Justin.

1976 SE6 no.49 See more here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147918531 ... 463353942/

1963 CV8 Mk1 no.10
1967 TR4A

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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by justfur » Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:59 pm

A few minutes with a large drill, my cordless wasn't up to it, and 140psi later the seal on the filter blew again.

Off with the sump and out with the pump, cleaned and checked the old and fitted it, gasket was still good after only a few weeks (stuck on the block with Wellseal), fresh coat of sealer on the sump and 3/4 filled with oil.....

easy does it with the drill and after about 20/30 seconds I had a constant 70psi. Did it a couple of times more but did not see too much evidence of any additional oil at the rockers. There was evidence of oil marks on the crank so I'm happy that oil is circulating.

Will wait for another day to complete the start-up.


Justin.

1976 SE6 no.49 See more here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147918531 ... 463353942/

1963 CV8 Mk1 no.10
1967 TR4A

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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by peter freeman » Sun Sep 10, 2017 7:48 pm

I could not wait another day - I would have it running straight away.



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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by gtcse8 » Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:04 pm

Justin don`t forget the crank has holes crossdrilled in it and this allows the oil to flow to each mains and big end as the crank rotates.
This "Pulses the oil and sends it around the engine in an orderly manner.
If the crank drillings are NOT in line when turning the pump then the oil will just be dumped back into the sump via the relief valve.

You may have to turn the crank to get all the oil to the top, and if these drillings are all closed that may be why your over pressurising the system.,

Having said that, some shells have grooves within them to allow some oil to circulate even if the crank is not turning.

Same goes for the "Windows in the cam followers which move up and down as the cam rotates, thus allowing the oil to be pushed up the `push rods to the rockers.


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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by justfur » Sun Sep 10, 2017 10:16 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:04 pm

You may have to turn the crank to get all the oil to the top,
Thanks Mark, I feel more confident firing it up agin now. I'll dump in the last of the oil and fire it up while that's still on the cam.


Justin.

1976 SE6 no.49 See more here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147918531 ... 463353942/

1963 CV8 Mk1 no.10
1967 TR4A

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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by justfur » Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:58 pm

Well today was certainly a better day, phoned a friend and with the extra head and pair of eyes we fired it up again. Mind you he did question the pair of Pretty Polly tights driving the water pump!

Straight up to 2000rpm and run at + or - 200 rpm for 20 mins. Oil pressure was steady at 70psi for the first 10 mins, at the end when there was a small sput of hot water/steam from the overflow I shut it down, the pressure was around 50psi at that stage, temp in the thermo housing was just shy of 100%. Gave it a minute or two for the fan to cool the rad before starting it again and on tickover, 600 rpm, oil pressure was down to 15psi, but it was pretty hot at that stage.

After a cuppa I adjusted the choke, which was a country mile out, and during another short run I adjusted the timing and set the idle at 700rpm, oil was 30psi at that time. Sounds great when revved, but then there's only half an exhaust system, and pops slightly on over-run.

Allowed it to cool for a few minutes before I retorque the head.


Justin.

1976 SE6 no.49 See more here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147918531 ... 463353942/

1963 CV8 Mk1 no.10
1967 TR4A

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Post by peter freeman » Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:15 am

re-torque -too late to advise you that the later instructions were to torque down to 90 and leave it - sounds like you have used the original instruction to set at 75 then re-torque after the engine has ran.



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Oil pressure/relief valve

Post by justfur » Tue Sep 12, 2017 10:18 am

peter freeman wrote:
Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:15 am
re-torque -too late to advise you that the later instructions were to torque down to 90 and leave it - sounds like you have used the original instruction to set at 75 then re-torque after the engine has ran.
Why are these 'later instructions' not included in the WS manual that I bought off the club?


Justin.

1976 SE6 no.49 See more here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147918531 ... 463353942/

1963 CV8 Mk1 no.10
1967 TR4A

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