Stripping Down to the Rolling Chassis

This page takes the complete car down to a rolling chassis


Section A :

Main Outer Panels
Section B : Interior Trim
Section C : Headlights, Front Wiring & Armature
Section D : Under the Car
Section E : In the Engine Bay
Section F : Measuring Up The Body
Section G : Body Tub Fixings
Section H : Lifting the Body Tub

A. - Main Outer Panels.  

Rear view before starting


This section will include the following : 



Probably the best, and easiest place to start is the hood, just a couple of bolts, some press studs. The hardest part of taking the hood off is ensuring that it is stored with the windows flat.

The hood removed from the car, make sure the windows are kept flat.


Bonnet Taking off the bonnet is really a two person job, as it is surprisingly heavy. Here there only 4 nuts to undo and off it comes for storage. One word of caution - make sure that you do not overstress the studs which protrude from the bonnet, or they may snap off.

Take this opportunity to remove the battery, negative connection first.


Click to enlarge
Views of the under bonnet area


Boot Fairly easy one this. Again better with two of you to save damaging any paint work. Release the Boot Stay first, then unbolt the lid itself.

Equip yourself with lots of plastic bags and boxes to store all the parts in. Freezer bags are ideal. Use tie- on cardboard labels to list the contents of the bag 
Boot Liner The first thing to do when trying to remove the boot liner is to get rid of all that junk that is stored in the boot !

Remove and store the carpet and wooden shelf. Take off the Boot Stay and striker plate. The boot light can come out at this point allowing the wiring to be disconnected.

Undo all the fasteners you can see, including the ones which bolt the boot liner to the inner rear wings. Store all the bits in a bag. Watch out for the spacers that may be fitted between the liner and the rear armature frame.

Lift out the boot liner, it may be a tight fit, but it should come - Providing you have removed all the fasteners (he says going red!)


Rear Deck This one's another easy job. You need to drill out all the rivets which hold the press studs for the hood.

Watch the carpet and paintwork though when drilling.

 There are a couple of Torx™ head screws next to the doors, these need to come out as well.

Take off the aerial and store on the fuel tank for now.

Remove the fuel cap, place some masking tape over the pipe to stop bits falling in,  and lift off the rear deck. It may be a bit stiff around the fuel pipe, but it should lift away.

Replace the fuel cap onto the filler neck.


If using a drill and you do not want the bit to go too far through the work piece slide a length of snug fitting tube over the drill bit, cut to a length which will allow the bit to only make the hole
Rear Bumper Remove the rear lights allowing the wires to be disconnected. Also take off the number plate as some cars have bolts behind them.

Unbolt the rest of the fasteners and take the bumper away from the car.


I needed to cut through the rusted bolts so I used my Black & Decker Wizard™ tool - What an invaluable piece of kit this is. Follow the link for more info
Rear Wings To take off the rear wings firstly you need to remove the door strikers from the B-Post. Easy said than done in most cases.

I resorted to drilling out the heads of the countersunk setscrews to allow the striker to come off. You can get to the backs of the setscrews when the wings are off. They are long and should come out "backwards". 

Finish removing all the remaining wing fasteners, jack up the car with a trolley jack under the rear suspension arms (use a flat piece of wood to protect the arm), remove the wheels and then the wing will come away.


Rear Loom

Unclip and stow the rear section of the loom to prevent damage, ensuring all the cables are labelled.

Feed the loom through the hole in the body tub (see picture below), all the loom will fit through if you are careful.

View of Rear Loom stowed in Body Tub, arrow shows hole that the Loom ran though


View of the rear end stripped down
Here is the backend after the panels have been removed


Doors The reason for doing the doors now is to allow better access to the front wing fasteners.

The doors can either be straight forward or tricky, they are a one man job but two people would make it a lot quicker and easier.

To start with remove the all the fittings on the interior panel of the door, handles & window winders etc. and then try to remove the screws which hold the interior panel to the door itself. If these prove tricky to undo and are spinning the following may help :

Try to partially drill out the heads of the countersunk setscrews, this will heat up the plastic cup washer allowing it be easily removed. This gives you more play to pull the panel away from the door and get a hacksaw blade in to cut through the setscrews between the panel and the door carcass. Protect the door and the panels with a few layers of masking tape and use a new hacksaw blade.

Pop-off the clips holding the panel on using either a chisel or a large screwdriver (I used a Panel Popping tool I made to remove Ford Door Panels), being careful not to damage the panel itself.

Remove the mirror wire at this stage, you'll only forget it later !

Support the door on wooden blocks and remove all the hinge bolts, if they have rusted and the nuts round off etc. use the Black & Decker wizard again to cut 50 to 75% of the way through the nut as close to the washer as you can get, then resort to the trusty cold chisel and lump hammer. The Wizard can also be used to remove a bit more of the glass fibre door aperture if required.

Remove the door and stand on some foam or rags.


Door Hinges on the A-Post
View of the A-Post and Hinges


Lower RH Door Hinge
Detail view of the lower hinge. Note the cut-off 3rd Bolt arrowed


Nosecone Some cars may be fitted with a grill under the nosecone, remove this first.

Next take off the spotlights, you can get to the nuts behind the nosecone from the outside of the car.

Finish removing the remaining bolts and the nosecone will come away.


Headlight Panel Remove the headlight panel by locating the 5 plastic wing nuts where the headlight panel meets the nosecone. You will need to twist and turn a bit to get to them, but the should come off fairly easily. You may need to make a tool to remove any stiff ones, at least one should come off to use as a pattern to make a tool from.

Take out the fasteners at the back edge of the headlight panel and the bonnet stay clip, which attach the panel to the front armature, then the panel should lift away.


Front Wings The front wings are themselves straight forward, but there are several items in the engine bay that are fastened through the wings to the chassis :

Coolant pipes, battery box, expansion tank etc.

When these have been taken off undo the Torx™ fasteners along the top of the wing leaving one in the centre. 

Word of caution here - When you take out the Torx™ at the front water may "pee" from the wing support tube ! - Have a pot handy to catch it.

I made a note to drill some drain holes on re-assembly to let the water out and also to inject Waxoyl into the box section.

Jack the car up under the suspension and remove the road wheel, then take out the last wing screw and the wing should come away, the lower part of the wing is held in place by virtue of being clipped into the sill :

The slots which locate the lower part of the front wings
View of Front Wing location slots in the sill

Front Wing assembly, ready for storage

Replace the wheel and lower the car. Rinse and repeat for the other side.


Radiator Panel To finish this section off an easy job to to take off the radiator panel, this will allow better access to the headlight and wiring.

Just ensure that the bolts have WD-40 on them to help take them out.


This should complete the work on all the outer panels.



B. - Interior Trim.  

Genral view of the interior of an SS1


These items are covered in this section : 


Seats and seat belts

First thing to do is to remove the bolts which hold the seat belts to the seat base.

When this has been done unscrew the caphead screws that hold the seat runners to the chassis. Slide the seat forward to gain access to the rear screws and then backwards to get at the front ones. The front pair are a bit more tricky to get to but use a cut-down Allen key, with a short pipe over it to gain some more leverage.

(On re-assembly I will drill out the captive nuts, use longer caphead screws and nyloc nuts to make the job easier). 

Unplug the wires under the seats, labelling them, then lift the seats away from the body.

Seat removed from the car, note the electrical connection trailing on the floor. 


Glove Box and Gearlever Gaiter Two easy items here. The Glovebox has just a couple of screws, but note the wiring on the back of the mirror switch if electric mirrors are fitted.

Take off the gear lever gaiters, both the inner and outer ones.

Gear lever and Glovebox area before removal...    and after........

Centre Console Take off the side panels and then release the main section.

If you have a radio fitted it may be wise to remove that before the console is removed.

Make sure that all the cables are labelled up as you take each of them way.

Remove the clips retaining the heater control cables and then tip up the centre console to take the ends of the cable from the lever arms.

Centre Console
Centre Console


Wiring with Identification tie wraps
Wiring behind the Centre Console, showing the the identification tie wraps being put to good use.


Ident tiewraps being used to clearly and securely label the wires
A close up of the tie wraps


Steering Shroud When trying to release the steering wheel shroud ideally the wheel itself should come off out of the way to allow access to the rivets at the front of the assembly. If the wheel proves difficult to remove then follow this method :

Remove all the fasteners for the steering shroud except for one in the bottom of the lower shroud.

Push the shroud assembly carefully to one side and drill out one rivet using a 1/8" (3.2mm) bit. Push the shroud in the opposite direction to remove the remaining rivet.

The shroud can now be dismantled.


Steering Column With the shroud out of the way better access is afforded to the steering wheel column.

If the wheel was not removed due to it being stuck do not worry. It's better to remove it on the bench as the column can be taken out with it still in place.

The first item to do when trying to extract the column is to undo and completely remove the lower steering joint bolt. The column will not come out if the bolt is not taken out.

Following this unplug the ignition switch and control stalk from the main loom and wiper control unit.

Next release the fasteners holding the two support clamps, starting with the lower one.

The column should come out of the car.


Instrument panel Two wing nuts hold the back of the instrument panel cover to the dashboard and two screws hold the front. These need to come out.

The wing nuts are very difficult to get to and seem to be too long !

When the fasteners are all out jiggle off the cover giving access to the instrument panel itself.

Under the dash remove the Speedo cable from the panel and then the screws holding the panel itself in.

Pull the panel away then unplug the wiring connectors.


Before you begin any mechanical disassembly soak every nut and bolt in WD-40 at least 24 hrs before.
Interior lights and speakers These are optional items but they do allow better access to the heater pipes.

The interior lights just pull out, note the wiring on these.

The speakers only need to be unscrewed and their wires taking off. Watch that the speakers do not pick up any metal bits lying around !

Picture of the Steering Shroud,Heater Vent, Interior Light and Speaker


Door Switches Take out the screw which holds the door switch to the A-Post. Pull the switch out and pull off the wire labelling it as you go.

Push the wire back into the hole and pull up into the main body tub area.


Dashboard The dashboard can now be removed from the car, it is only held in place with 4 screws and some adhesive that holds it to the scuttle panel.

Carefully lift the back of the dashboard up to release the glue, it may help to push up from under the dash as well.

Lift the dash away and take out of the car.

Inspect the wires and make sure they are all labelled.

Dashboard out, quite a straight foward job.


Photo session Take this opportunity to record the area behind the dashboard before stripping any further.

"A picture says a thousand words" - especially when trying to sort out the routing of heater trunking and wiring


Relays and other electrical parts Some of the relays and control units under the dash need to be taken off the cross support tube. Clearly label the wires for the rebuild, taking special note of any earthing points

Here is a general view of the layout behind the dashboard and a closer view of the electrical units :


View of the inside of the car at this stage of the process

The Low Fuel and Low Coolant Units mounted under the Crosstube

Remove all the tie wraps that hold the main loom to the crosstube.


Heater Pipes


Before trying to remove the crosstube sketch which heater pipes go where and label them to save any problems later, you will be grateful for this believe me! Remove all the pipes off the heater and also take off the control cables (to stop them poking you in the eye!).


Wiper Motor


The wiper motor can come out next. To do this first working outside of the car, carefully pull off the decorative caps on the end of the wiper arms, undo the nuts and "wiggle" the wiper arms off the spindles. This allows the spindle to rotate freely when the motor is pulled clear of the car.

Label and pull off the wiring connections and then undo the large nut which attaches the bundy tube to the motor. Release the two clamp nuts and withdraw the motor, a tip here is to put a carrier bag over your right hand when pulling the motor out, the cable rack is usually very greasy and the end "wangs" about like no-ones business so catch it with the carrier bag ! 


Dashboard Cross Member


You should now be able to remove the crosstube from the car. Start by releasing the single bolt which attaches the assembly to the pedal box (nut and bolt). Next remove the two bolts in the centre of the car on the tunnel, the nuts might spin so be prepared to ask someone to undo them whilst you ferret round behind the distributor to find the nuts.

The four end bolts can come out next (note the earth cables), carefully pull the assembly away from the A-posts, watching the 'dangly' bits of fibreglass at the end of the dashboard. The crosstube assembly will probably be a bit stiff to extract, but it should come.



On my car, now I could see the main loom properly, I noticed that the wiring had melted in several places and that bare copper was visible in two conductors, both an earth and feed cable had been overheating.


Carpet removal is fairly straight forward, start with the back piece first. To do this you need to drill out 3 rivets that hold the presstuds for the hood cover, be careful to not catch the carpet with the drill. The carpet should come away from the body, make sure the glue does not rip any foam off the back.

Next work on the main floor carpet section, this too has rivets to drill out. These hold the carpet to the centre tunnel in the region of the two "useful" pockets. Drill them out taking care not to drill into the body as the heads of the rivets are hard to see.

Lift the carpet up slightly and push through all the wires . The carpet should then come out, you may need to fold up the front section to allow the whole thing to slide forward to clear the handbrake.

When you have done this the handbrake gaiter can be unstitched carefully.

Also now the carpets are out, remove the aerial lead from the body tub by feeding it through to the fuel tank area.




Rather than grovelling under the car the handbrake can be removed from inside, but only if it safe to do so !

Ensure the car will not roll into anything before releasing the handbrake.

After labelling, remove the wiring and the two bolts which hold the handbrake down. Note the position of the spacer at the front fixing point.

Pull the handbrake up and to one side, allowing access to the cotter pin. Using a pair of needle nose pliers bend the split pin straight and then pull it out of the cotter pin. Remove the washer and then slide the pin out of the arm of the handbrake. 

The handbrake assembly will then come away. Store the split and cotter pins back in the handbrake arm. 


Reverse Light Wiring


Locate the wiring for the reverse light switch, there should be two wires. 

Carefully Unplug them from the switch, pull out the grommet and feed the loom back through the body. You may need to clean the wires if they are oily, so have a rag handy.

Label them up.


Gear Lever


To take the gear lever out of the gearbox you need to undo the 3 size 40 Torx™ fasteners holding it into the rear of the 'box.

Gear lever and the 3 Torx bolts

The lever will then lift out of the 'box.


Door Hinges


This is probably a good time to remove the door hinges from the A-post. They will need to come off later anyway to jig up the chassis.

Each hinge has 3 nuts to take off and a spreader plate. The nuts should come off easily, but if they do not just resort to the "Wizard".


This should complete the interior work

C. - Headlights, Front Wiring
       & Armature


These items are covered in this section :  * These items do not have to come off to remove the body, but they do free up some room and will eventually have to be removed anyway.


When removing the headlights go for the whole assembly approach, these can be stripped down further on the bench.

To do this, first the circlip holding the actuation arm is taken off, this will allow the arm to be pull off the shaft.

Protect the front of the headlights with some clothes and then tip them onto the front armature.

You may find it easy to remove the pods to get to the wiring plug on the bulb, but this is up to you. Remove all the clips holding the loom to the brackets and stow the loom out of the way.

Release all the bolts holding the support brackets to the support arms and the front armature, then the headlight assembly will come away. It is heavier than it looks, so beware of this when the last fixings come out.

Lower the lights back to their original position and carefully store.

RH Headlight assembly
View of the headlight actuating arm and motor

Looking down onto the Headlight
Top view of the RH headlight


Loom clips Drill out the loom clips which hold the front loom to the support tubes.

Cut off any tie wraps that are holding the loom to the chassis.


Support Arms Remove the bungs that cover the capscrews holding the support arms to the armature. (This applies to "early" cars only).

Undo the capscrews at the front of the tube and the one holding the tube to the body tub.

Note the use of sealant between the support tube and the body tub.


Horns and Headlight relays Take off the horns and the headlight relays from the front armature labelling the wires as you proceed.
Front wiring Loom Undo any earth connections and remaining clips.

Feed the main loom back through the armature and stow it carefully on top to the engine for now.


View of the front end stripped down, click to see an enlarged version
Front end partially stripped down


Engine Wiring Moving on the next area to record and then disconnect is the engine wiring.

Label and disconnect the following :

  • Temperature Sender Unit (1 wire)
  • Fan switch (2 wires)
  • Oil pressure switch
  • Dipstick
  • Fuel Shut-off solenoid on Carburettor
  • Auto choke feed
  • Distributor Multi-plug (remove wire retaining clip)
  • Starter motor solenoid leads
  • Alternator Wires *
  • Brake pad lead

Apologies if I have missed off any wires from the list (i.e for those of you stripping an 1800T).

* To ease the removal of the body it is necessary to release one the wires in the alternator multi plug as the larger lead is permanently attached to the lead from the battery. Also mark the terminal that you take the auto-choke feed off.

Ensure all the wiring is neatly tucked out of harms way ready for the lifting of the body tub.


Bonnet Hinges and Rod Start by removing the rod from between the two hinges, this is done by releasing one end and then sliding the rod out from the other hinge. This is best done if you pull the hinges up first.

The hinges can then be unbolted from the front armature.


Towing Eye Three fixings hold the towing eye in place, two on the side of the armature, one in the front. Simple enough job to take these out.


Fan and Support Bracket To save messing around with the fiddly bolts on the fan start by removing the four bolt for the support tube, this should stay in position till you pull it out. Ensure no wiring is left attached and do not damage the radiator fins when taking out the fan.

When out, better access is afforded to the three nuts holding the fan in place to remove it from the support tube.


Spare Wheel Strap

Easy one, just remove the four bolts holding the strap to the Front Armature and Engine Cross Member. 

Note the fibre washers on the fasteners.


This should complete the work on the front end before the body comes off.


D. - Under The Car.  


Check Over Apart from a quick check under the car, no work should be necessary at this stage.


E. - In the Engine Bay.  


These items are covered in this section :
Heater Pipes


To allow the body to be lifted the heater hose pipes need to be taken off the feed and return connection to the heater matrix.

Heater Pipes before disconnecting

Label which pipes went where before taking them off, plug the ends of the rubber hoses using copper pipes and blanking fittings. Cover the matrix pipes with small sections of plastic sheet and tie wrap these in place:

Photo showing pipes disconnected and blanked off


Expansion Bottle Un-plug the low coolant level switch wiring if this has not been done already.

Next take off the lid of the expansion bottle and tip the contents into a container, disposing of it in a responsible manner.

Remove the overflow pipe at the expansion bottle and the radiator ends, then remove the pipe that connects the bottle to the bottom water hose. Seal the end of this pipe as well.


Air Filter Assembly To allow the body to clear the air filter it is best to remove it altogether. Remove the lid of the filter and all the fixings that hold it in place.

Lift the body of the filter housing up and pull off the two rubber pipes that are connected underneath, label these up.

Cover the mouth of the carburettor by taking off the rubber grommet and placing a piece of plastic sheet over the carburettor and replacing the grommet. (See photo in next section)

Brake Lines Rather than take the Servo and Master Cylinder off the body tub at this stage the simplest thing to do is to unscrew the two brake lines in the side of the master cylinder. Allow the fluid in the reservoir to drain into a suitable container, some may dribble down the body so put some plastic sheeting and newspaper down. It takes quite a while for the fluid to drain out.

If you have access to some spare brake line and fitting you could make some blanking pieces to screw into the master cylinder.

View of Carb. and Brake Servo.
A - Brake Lines Disconnected
B - Carburettor covering


This should be all of the parts removed to allow the body tub to be lifted.


F. - Measuring Up.  


These items are covered in this section :
Measuring Up the Chassis and Making Templates

Before any work commences on the body tub fasteners this is a good time to clear up and take some measurement of the car.

Measure all round the door apertures to ensure the A and B-posts are placed back on the sills in exactly the right locations.

You could make up some hardboard templates to act as guides during the welding..... 


G. - Body Tub Fasteners.  


These items are covered in this section :
Body Bolts


The body tub is fastened to the chassis using 4 bolt and some rivets (see next section).

The 4 bolts are easy to remove, two are located in the footwells of the driver and passenger sides, right at the front of the floor. The other two are on the top of the centre tunnel, they may be obscured by the grey leather cloth that covers the tunnel.

Take out these bolts and then move onto the rivets .......


Body Rivets The 30 or so rivets that hold the body to the chassis require drilling out using a 3/16 drill. Start by drilling the heads off all the rivets, you may need to punch through any stems that have not broken off inside the body of the rivet.

The head of the rivets should come away easily, the main problem is getting access to the 6 rivets (3 on each side) that hold the tub to the front face of the A-post.

When you have drilled out the rivets you can then use a punch to push the rivets into the a-Posts/sills.

Drilling out the rivets   Punching them though

Here is a close up view of the bottom of the A-post, carefully check to see if any other rivets have been used elsewhere in the body tub.

Body tub rivets, drilled out and knocked through

Most of the rivets are along the sills and up the a-Posts.

Four rivets though are located at the bottom of the windscreen pillar, securing it to the A-Post. These will need to be removed as well.


Mastics & Sealants


This is probably the most sole destroying task of the disassembly process up till now (the chassis rust comes later !).

There are 6 main areas of sealant/mastic used on the SS1 body tub :

  • The outer top of the A-Post to the body tub around the windscreen

  • The front edge of the A-Post

  • The back edge of the B-Post

  • The pockets for the seatbelts

  • Some around the inside of the door shuts

  • The Windscreen pillar to the inner top of the A-Post

All of these areas pose some sort of hard work or piddling around to free them off, taking them in turn :

  • The outer top of the A-Post to the body tub around the windscreen

Carefully clean this are out with a Stanley knife and a small screwdriver. try to get as much of the sealant out of the triangle shaped bit as possible.

  • The front edge of the A-Post

This is best tackled with a Stanley knife and scraper (decorators putty knife etc.) Start by removing all the outer sealant with the knife and then try to scrap out the rest, also try to slide the blades between the A-Post and the body tub.

  • The back edge of the B-Post

Use the same method as the front of the A-Post, but this one is a bit easier.

  • The pockets for the seatbelts

These are probably the trickiest ones to do, very time consuming. Start by trying to get all the visible mastic from around the inside of the pockets, next slide a 12" hacksaw blade into the "gap" between the body tub and the pockets, sawing and sliding your way through the mastic. Try not to damage the fibreglass. You need to free off the pocket all the way round. Access can be gained from the back of the B-Post as well to help.

The looser the pockets, the easier the back of the tub will be to pick up.  

  • Some around the inside of the door shuts

Just clean this area out with the scraper

  • The Windscreen pillar to the inner top of the A-Post

This area on the top of each of the A-Posts is the toughest to do. If you can not get the scraper carefully between the A-Post and the bottom of the windscreen pillar don't worry.


H. - Lifting the
     Body Tub.  


These items are covered in this section :
Ready to Lift


Here are some photos of the tub ready to lift :

General view of the front of the tub

Looking at the rear of the Body tub

View looking down on the tub


Freeing up
the Tub


When you are sure that all the rivets and bolts have been removed from the tub you can try and lift it up and free off any remaining mastic and sealants.

When doing observe the health and safety issues for lifting.

One method which will help to ease the body away from the chassis is to apply a constant pressure upwards.

To achieve this place a trolley jack with a large block off wood under the front footwells close to the front edge. CAREFULLY raise the jack allowing the body to take SOME of the weight of the car. Keep listening and watching for movement. Do not jack the car up to high. If the body does not come away try to exert a downward force onto the chassis near the front of the sills, this should free up the body.

Repeat for the other side and also, if necessary the rear of the tub. 

Be extra careful around the rear section as the floor is not quite as strong.

WARNING : If the body will not release double check that all the rivets and bolts have been removed and that as much sealant has been taken out of the joints.

When the tub is free the next thing to do is to lift it up and down to free it up a bit more, this will help with the final lift.

Lifting the tub


Three people are needed to comfortably lift the body tub off the chassis.

The following method allows the lift to be carried out in controlled manner which will not stress the body work or move the A-posts.

Prepare for the lift by having around 16 50mm x 100mm (2" x 4") blocks of timber about 300mm (12") long to hand.

Starting at the front of the car, lift both sides of the tub up around 75mm (3") and slide in one piece of timber each side, positioning it between the chassis front cross tube and the body, lower the tub back onto the blocks. Check that the wood is lying as evenly as possible under the body.

Now lift up the back section and slide in the timber between the raised body and the rear seat support rail, lower the body back onto the timber.

Repeat this lifting and placing of timbers for another 3 "rises", you will then end up with the body approximately 200mm (8") above the chassis, having raised it in a controlled and even manner.

Arrows showing the timber supports in place

Detail of the timber supports under the front LH Footwell

Check that no pipes and wires are still attached now you can see under the tub a bit more.

Take a rest and ensure that the area that you will be placing the tub down on is flat and that the route to carry the tub to its resting place is clear of rags, boxes, parts, cats/dogs children etc. etc.... Doing this will allow you to easily (and without stress) achieve the final goal :

To lift the body tub, position one helper at each of the front footwells and the other helper at the rear of the tub, as most of the weight is at the front of the body.

The final lift of the body is relatively easy, the lift needs to be vertical for the first part, this will ensure that the parts of the body tub which wrap round the A-post do not over-stress it. When the body is clear of the A-post, move the body away towards the rear of the car, then place down.

Body being loaded onto trailer for storage.

Front view of tub....

Thanks to Clive and Graham for helping with the lift, cheers Guys !

Here is the chassis in all its naked glory (and rust) ....

SS1 chassis with the tub removed, the cat's not dead, just exhausted from watching !

Now replace the Dashboard cross tube to support the A-posts, before somebody leans on them.

View looking rearwards

This concludes the work stripping the car down to the rolling chassis.

The next section deals with the stripping of the rolling chassis down to a bare chassis.