This relates to my 1972 SE5a although I would not expect much difference with other Models.

 

The Handbrake works by the Lever pushing down on the Bottom Shoe. When the Brake Shoe comes into contact with the Brake Drum the Brake Cylinder slides in the back plate and pushes the other Brake Shoe onto the Brake Drum. The closer the Handbrake Lever at the Cable end is to the Back Plate the more leverage there will be and so the efficiency of the hand brake will be improved, even a small amount makes a big difference. By placing a Nut that has a Slot cut into it into the Bottom Brake Shoe between the Lever and the Shoe, this moves the Lever closer to the Back Plate and so improves the Handbrake efficiency. The Nut will not fall off as the Lever will hold it on. Try to get the handbrake lever ( Where the hand brake cable attaches to it ) as close as possible to the back plate. If the gap in the brake shoe is too narrow when fitting the brake shoe over the hand brake lever you may need to remove the clips holding the brake cylinder on to allow the lever to go through the brake shoe hole. Information about the Cylinder Clips is explained below. You could fit a smaller nut but this will allow the hand brake lever to be further away from the back plate but you really want the lever to be as close to the back plate as possible so the extra work is well worth the effort. To fit the Rear Brake Shoes attach the Left Spring into the bottom Brake Shoe, fit the Shoe so the Lever is through the slot while holding the Spring. By pushing the Spring forward it can be attached into the Top Brake Shoe, Fit the Shoes into the Slots in the Cylinder. Now fit the Right Spring into the Bottom Brake Shoe, push the shoe up passed the Adjusting mechanism and attach the Spring into the Top Shoe. Once the Spring is located fit the Bottom Shoe into the Adjusting mechanism then lever the Top shoe into the Top of the Adjusting mechanism. The two springs need to be behind the Hub assembly when fitting. Click on image for more details.

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When replacing the Wheel Cylinder it is held on by three clips against the backing Plate. Take note of how it came off but the Clips may have been fitted incorrectly be a previous owner. To fit correctly is easy. Before fitting the Wheel Cylinder make sure that the Backing Plate is clean both sides and has a coating of Copper Grease. This is important as the Cylinder needs to slide when both Footbrake and Handbrake are used. When fitting the Cylinder remove the Handbrake Lever then slide Clip One into place from the Top ( The end opposite the Lever ). Make sure that the end tabs are pointing away from the Backing Plate. Now fit Spring Two from the bottom end, ensure that the tabs on Spring One locates into the end of Spring Two. The Cylinder can now be levered away slightly from the Backing Plate to enable the Lever to be fitted, this Lever pivots in slots in the Cylinder. Once the Lever is fitted Spring Three can be fitted from the bottom. It is a bit tight as the Lever gets in the way but not too difficult to do.

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Once all done ensure that there is play in the Handbrake Cable then adjust the Brakes as normal using the adjuster. While in the area it is a good idea to clean and lubricate the adjuster assembly. It is held on by two nuts so remove the adjuster assembly, remove the screw adjuster and the two cams and clean and reassemble and refit. Now adjust Handbrake Cable. There are a number of opinions on how to do this but my way is to turn the brake adjuster until there is drag on the drum then back off the adjuster about four clicks then keep turning the Drum while adjusting the Cable until Drag can be felt, then back off Cable adjuster until no Drag, make sure you are checking for this Drag on both Drums as the Cable is a continuous length so adjusting one side can pull the Cable from the other side. Obviously make sure that the Handbrake Lever inside Car is fully off. After every adjustment push the brake pedal to keep the brake shoes aligned then check again. Once you are happy with the handbrake adjustment turn the brake adjuster untill the drag can be felt when turning the brake drum. Once again keep pressing the brake pedal after every adjustment. When you are happy that all seems OK go for a short drive applying both the Footbrake and Handbrake then check both the Shoe Adjustment and Handbrake adjustment. This may seem like a lot of messing about but will ensure that the rear brakes and handbrake are as good as possible.

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As with all things to do with Brakes be 100% sure that all is OK. If replacing Cylinders the Brakes will need to be Bled, Make sure that all Brake Pipe connections are 100% and there are no leaks. After the Test Drive check again. During the Test Drive it is an Idea to press the Brake Pedal very hard so the Wheels Lock. When doing this make sure it is safe to do so. By checking the Brakes like this you will not be surprised if you do need to press the Brake Pedal in an emergency.