Manny's SS1 1600

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Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:57 pm

Ah yes, thinking back to when I've done it, and looking at the photos from the time before last, (which are in my project thread), I think the reason I didn't remember any great struggle to remove the crank pulley is because I was only changing the belt, not doing the oil pump or seals, and I think once the fanbelt pulley is off there is enough space to remove the belt without removing the pulley. So ignore my ramblings! :roll:


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Post by manny » Mon Apr 30, 2018 5:54 pm

Roger Pennington wrote:
Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:57 pm
Ah yes, thinking back to when I've done it, and looking at the photos from the time before last, (which are in my project thread), I think the reason I didn't remember any great struggle to remove the crank pulley is because I was only changing the belt, not doing the oil pump or seals, and I think once the fanbelt pulley is off there is enough space to remove the belt without removing the pulley. So ignore my ramblings! :roll:
sir..i never view your posts as rambles :) and never ignore- as this reply proves


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Post by manny » Sat May 05, 2018 6:06 pm

Good sunnnnnny day all,

with the puller in hand- removing the toothed pulley was a 5 min job, and the keyway came out within 1 min...
....well i managed to renew the seal - then realised i had put the tooted crank pulley on backwards!!- so tempted to lever it out - and chipped it :oops: - but it does not interfere with the belt - but will replace it once i manage to source a spare...
Put it back together - i had used some white nail varnish to mark the belt prior to removal - so it went back on without too much drama....and it all worked :D phew....

Ta

Manny


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Post by manny » Mon May 07, 2018 3:26 pm

There i was all happy that the crankshaft oil seal was doing its job...when i saw oil leaking from the camshaft seal!...oh well at least i found it ..one of the causes!


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Post by manny » Wed May 09, 2018 7:18 pm

Good day all

having got the car running - i noted that it 'seems' to run smoothest\best when the distributor is near the end of its rotational travel- would that suggest a camshaft change is in order? - i have not had it timed- just tweaking when listening ..

Ta

Manny


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Post by Alan SS1 » Thu May 10, 2018 12:52 pm

manny wrote:
Wed May 09, 2018 7:18 pm
Good day all

having got the car running - i noted that it 'seems' to run smoothest\best when the distributor is near the end of its rotational travel- would that suggest a camshaft change is in order? - i have not had it timed- just tweaking when listening ..

Ta

Manny
simple thing first
Check that vacuum advance pipe isn't broken/ split. try removing it at dizzy end then put your thumb over carb end, see if it runs better /worse.
also check that the pipe to servo is 'unmolested', again plug if needed to try
I doubt a cam change is required, but are you 100% you got the dots lined up when you swapped timing belt? :shock: one tooth will make heck of a difference :wink:


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Post by manny » Thu May 10, 2018 2:16 pm

Alan SS1 wrote:
Thu May 10, 2018 12:52 pm
manny wrote:
Wed May 09, 2018 7:18 pm
Good day all

having got the car running - i noted that it 'seems' to run smoothest\best when the distributor is near the end of its rotational travel- would that suggest a camshaft change is in order? - i have not had it timed- just tweaking when listening ..

Ta

Manny
simple thing first
Check that vacuum advance pipe isn't broken/ split. try removing it at dizzy end then put your thumb over carb end, see if it runs better /worse.
also check that the pipe to servo is 'unmolested', again plug if needed to try
I doubt a cam change is required, but are you 100% you got the dots lined up when you swapped timing belt? :shock: one tooth will make heck of a difference :wink:
Good day Alan,

before i removed the belt:
i used red nail varnish and highlighted four points on the belt - and two on the Camshaft Sprocket ( engine at TDC with the Crankshaft and Camshaft sprockets aligned with their relative markers)
two on the belt either side of TDC position
Two adjacent on the belt ( pinched the belt) near the water pump

and installed exactly as removed - the engine made no differing noises as prior to removal (fairly quiet)

I also used it to get to work this morning - without any noticeable way it drove etc...

Will check as suggested later today..

Ta

Manny


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Post by Alan SS1 » Thu May 10, 2018 7:26 pm

OK, just a thought as if ran OK before changes and now it ' is less so' always good to start at last thing touched :wink:
My goodness that's keen, I've really just put it in gear and handbrake on!!
maybe a dab of tippex to mark the head of the tensioning bolts and where the tension was, more as a guide than anything else
Did you get permission to use that much nail varnish :shock:


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Post by manny » Thu May 10, 2018 7:38 pm

Alan SS1 wrote:
Thu May 10, 2018 7:26 pm
OK, just a thought as if ran OK before changes and now it ' is less so' always good to start at last thing touched :wink:
My goodness that's keen, I've really just put it in gear and handbrake on!!
maybe a dab of tippex to mark the head of the tensioning bolts and where the tension was, more as a guide than anything else
Did you get permission to use that much nail varnish :shock:
:D ....well she has not noticed it so far.!

as this was my FIRST EVER ( yes really!) timing belt removal ..thought i'd better be sure it goes on the same way ..

Ta

Manny


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Post by manny » Sat May 12, 2018 6:31 am

Good day ,

i have a trip to Droitwich this morning ( 60 miles total on M5)- so will report if\when i make it back!

Ta

Manny


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Post by manny » Sat May 12, 2018 8:36 am

Well all went well!...so not sure what to look at next regarding the distributor or just leave as is :?


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Post by manny » Sun May 20, 2018 9:22 pm

Good day all ,

today, my embarrassing question....
how will 1600 run with a 1300 distributor- as my installed dizzy has a one mount lug missing - but i have a spare ( 1300 i think) dizzy--
so can i install it and try to run it without any major mishap? before i figure out how to swap the housing it self..

Ta

Manny


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Post by scimjim » Sun May 20, 2018 9:37 pm

I’d imagine they have different advance characteristics and would make the 1600 a bit more sluggish?


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Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by manny » Sun May 20, 2018 9:56 pm

scimjim wrote:
Sun May 20, 2018 9:37 pm
I’d imagine they have different advance characteristics and would make the 1600 a bit more sluggish?
..that i can live with - cheers-


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Post by scimjim » Sun May 20, 2018 10:00 pm

I probably have spares - can look tomorrow if you want?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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