Too Much Work
Moderators: scimjim, Lukeyboy46, erikscimitardemon, Roger Pennington, philhoward
Too Much Work
Before I start dismantling operations to check: should the direction indicators on my SST be self-cancelling or is it normal that I have to do all the work myself - selecting both ON and OFF?
If the system is supposed to be self-cancelling - what should I look for what I get to the mechanisms?
If not self-cancelling, I have a problem with manual cancellation.
The indicator lights are not 'attention-getters' being rather dim and, unless deliberately looked for, can be missed. Also, the relay is not very loud and the engine is (louder).
This, sometimes, leads to the embarrassing "berk's forgotten his indicators" situation.
So, if manual ON & OFF is standard - can the in-cockpit indications be improved? Is there a modification (rotary rheostat?) available?
If the system is supposed to be self-cancelling - what should I look for what I get to the mechanisms?
If not self-cancelling, I have a problem with manual cancellation.
The indicator lights are not 'attention-getters' being rather dim and, unless deliberately looked for, can be missed. Also, the relay is not very loud and the engine is (louder).
This, sometimes, leads to the embarrassing "berk's forgotten his indicators" situation.
So, if manual ON & OFF is standard - can the in-cockpit indications be improved? Is there a modification (rotary rheostat?) available?
- CNHSS1
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Too Much Work
Self cancel is a plastic 'ring' that push fits over column and they do break. QRG or Reliant Partsworld should have them. Whip off the steering wheel and a 2 min job
Indicators being dim is usually poor contacts and earths or the silvering gone off the reflectors. Whip off lenses and diagnose, again few mins nothing difficult

Indicators being dim is usually poor contacts and earths or the silvering gone off the reflectors. Whip off lenses and diagnose, again few mins nothing difficult
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RIP Batmobile, await the Rise of Dark Knight 8)
Sabre 'Light Sabre' 360hp!!

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Too Much Work
SST 1800Ti ?.
Not many left now.
My cancelling "Ring would always move on the centre shaft so I drilled and tapped it M6 and put a grub screw in.
Sounds like the ring has moved and is "Blocking" the self cancel unit.
Mark
Not many left now.
My cancelling "Ring would always move on the centre shaft so I drilled and tapped it M6 and put a grub screw in.
Sounds like the ring has moved and is "Blocking" the self cancel unit.
Mark
Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Three Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s & not a lot of sense
EX SST 1800Ti
EX SST 1800Ti
- Old and Slow
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Too Much Work
Or buy a "buzzer" and wire it across the flasher can, so you can hear the indicators working?
Philip Needham
Ashley-bodied TR3; '54 Ford Consul; '55 AC 2-Litre Saloon;'65 850 Mini; '70 Ford Zodiac MkIV; XR3i
'81 911SC Targa, '64 Sabre Six
Ashley-bodied TR3; '54 Ford Consul; '55 AC 2-Litre Saloon;'65 850 Mini; '70 Ford Zodiac MkIV; XR3i
'81 911SC Targa, '64 Sabre Six
Too Much Work
Spent a couple of hours faffing (long story involving forgetfulness and/or stupidity) about sorting out the problem.
Put everything back together, connected the battery, started the engine and indicated left - nothing; indicated right - nothing. (However, my 'nodding' headlights no longer 'nod' (work that one out!).
The main/dip beam switch works, it's just the indicators that refuse to play ball.
Are there any relays or fuses connected with the indicator system that may have blown?
Put everything back together, connected the battery, started the engine and indicated left - nothing; indicated right - nothing. (However, my 'nodding' headlights no longer 'nod' (work that one out!).
The main/dip beam switch works, it's just the indicators that refuse to play ball.
Are there any relays or fuses connected with the indicator system that may have blown?
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On my SST the indicator unit is fastened to the bottom part of the switch binacle, on a few occasions the connector plug has been loose and not fully connected so I got an intermittent flasher.
Mark
Mark
Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Three Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s & not a lot of sense
EX SST 1800Ti
EX SST 1800Ti
- Roger Pennington
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Do the hazards work?1800oldb wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 1:25 pmstarted the engine and indicated left - nothing; indicated right - nothing. (However, my 'nodding' headlights no longer 'nod' (work that one out!).
The main/dip beam switch works, it's just the indicators that refuse to play ball.
Are there any relays or fuses connected with the indicator system that may have blown?
Does the cigarette lighter work?
Do the reverse lights & stop lights work?
....Roger
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Too Much Work
gtcse8 - grub screw not required. Don't know where indicator (flasher unit?) is located - will check tomorrow.
Old & Slow - good idea - maybe later.
Roger - Hazards - good; lighter - good; rev & stop - can't check them on my own.
Update - everything back together but still no indicators.
Located a wiring diagram and it would seem the problem could be a disconnected wire.
Will investigate tomorrow.
Old & Slow - good idea - maybe later.
Roger - Hazards - good; lighter - good; rev & stop - can't check them on my own.
Update - everything back together but still no indicators.
Located a wiring diagram and it would seem the problem could be a disconnected wire.
Will investigate tomorrow.
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Too Much Work
exercise the hazard switch several times - the power for the indicators comes from the hazard switch (in the off position) and the contacts can fur up through lack of use.
Jim King
SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR
Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS
SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR
Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS
- Roger Pennington
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Jim is absolutely right, failure of the hazard switch contacts through lack of use is a common problem (been there myself, on more than one car) so repeated operation of the switch may cure the problem. You've shown that the flasher unit itself works, because the hazards work. However, there's another subtlety to the problem, and the reason why the check on the stop lights and reversing lights is important. If you're able to try it after dark, you should be able to see the light from the driver's seat?.
Anyway, the point is this - the hazard switch doesn't just switch power between the hazards and the indicators, it switches between two *entirely different supplies* of power. The hazards use a non-ignition-controlled power source, which comes from fuse B3, which also supplies the lighter (hence my first two questions). The indicators use an ignition controlled source, from fuse C1, which also supplies the stop and reverse lights, hence my third question. So the stop/reverse test will confirm whether you've got power at that fuse or not. (I've had this problem too).
Anyway, the point is this - the hazard switch doesn't just switch power between the hazards and the indicators, it switches between two *entirely different supplies* of power. The hazards use a non-ignition-controlled power source, which comes from fuse B3, which also supplies the lighter (hence my first two questions). The indicators use an ignition controlled source, from fuse C1, which also supplies the stop and reverse lights, hence my third question. So the stop/reverse test will confirm whether you've got power at that fuse or not. (I've had this problem too).
....Roger
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Too Much Work
yep had a failure with 'lack of use' on hazards but also managed to short out the ciggy socket which took out the fuse (just after fitted a new stereo) which caused a few head scratching moments, having done the usual pre-MoT hazard button pushingRoger Pennington wrote: ↑Tue Aug 13, 2019 10:03 pmJim is absolutely right, failure of the hazard switch contacts through lack of use is a common problem (been there myself, on more than one car) so repeated operation of the switch may cure the problem. You've shown that the flasher unit itself works, because the hazards work. However, there's another subtlety to the problem, and the reason why the check on the stop lights and reversing lights is important. If you're able to try it after dark, you should be able to see the light from the driver's seat?.
Anyway, the point is this - the hazard switch doesn't just switch power between the hazards and the indicators, it switches between two *entirely different supplies* of power. The hazards use a non-ignition-controlled power source, which comes from fuse B3, which also supplies the lighter (hence my first two questions). The indicators use an ignition controlled source, from fuse C1, which also supplies the stop and reverse lights, hence my third question. So the stop/reverse test will confirm whether you've got power at that fuse or not. (I've had this problem too).
PS brush handle can be used to operate the brake pedal to see operation in day-light

SS1 1600 (AJZ ----), C30 (SK 57 ---)& 480 ( .. . EVU & . . . . CDC)
Regal 330 (VAV ---) now passed to another 'keen owner'
Regal 330 (VAV ---) now passed to another 'keen owner'
Too Much Work
Managed to see operation of stop, & reverse, lights - somebody had dumped a broken TV and the inner screen made a reasonable mirror.
Anyway, dismantled the switch and checked the components. It appears that a small, possibly brass / copper cap was missing.
Made a new cap, re-assembled everything and we have self-cancelling indicators.
Thanks for all the information and ideas.
Anyway, dismantled the switch and checked the components. It appears that a small, possibly brass / copper cap was missing.
Made a new cap, re-assembled everything and we have self-cancelling indicators.
Thanks for all the information and ideas.
Too Much Work
This might not apply if all of your indicators on the kerb crawling side were not working, but if you have trouble with the front ones only, then tell the arresting officer the following:
SS1s can get water inside the indicator unit which corrodes the terminals. They can be stripped down to individual bits of metal and sanded back to good metal though. Drill a hole in the plastic housing behind each bulb at the lower rear in a 45 degree angle as an effective one way drain hole (Ti accelleration expells ingressed water
).
I sealed up a leaking unit with silicone but some water still got in so the drain holes should sort it in the future.
SS1s can get water inside the indicator unit which corrodes the terminals. They can be stripped down to individual bits of metal and sanded back to good metal though. Drill a hole in the plastic housing behind each bulb at the lower rear in a 45 degree angle as an effective one way drain hole (Ti accelleration expells ingressed water

I sealed up a leaking unit with silicone but some water still got in so the drain holes should sort it in the future.