cvh specialist - Engine swap advice needed?

Post by **Roger Pennington** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 6:54 pm

Alan SS1 wrote: ↑
Mon Nov 13, 2017 6:39 pm
and yes I used the top-hat ones as well, but I got mine from a FORD garage. more chance of NOS in Malta?

Yes, my reference to Burtons was of course only an example, to show what they look like, if they can be found locally that's obviously going to be a better bet

Post by **joscac** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:25 pm

Many thanks for all your speedy replies and opinions !

I'll follow your advice starting with the easiest and least intrusive first ( diesel in the bores). I'll try starting her up after a couple of weeks and re-test compression. In the mean will get the car together in order to be able to give her a good run..... Hoping for the best but.... we'll see... thanks again. I am not expecting much improvement somehow. Before laying her up I recall she was very slugish....possibly natural ageing process.. nobody and nothing can escape that

In the meantime bores are soaking in diesel...

will keep you posted...

rgds to all

Post by **scimjim** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:47 pm

Sluggish CVH normally comes from a worn cam. If you’re taking the head off, take the opportunity to change it IMO (as it comes out of the back of the head).

Post by **joscac** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:59 pm

Thanks Jim. I haven't driven the car for two years. However, I definitely recall it could do with substantially more power !

Post by **reliant-reviver** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:05 pm

Biggest gains will be had from manifold, downpipe and carburettor upgrade. Got mine from 52bhp to 83bhp with a ported head.
A "fast road" (Kent CVH22) performance cam and on top of that should release a further 10-15bhp.

Still deliberating over whether to have another round of 1300 tuning and crack the 100 bhp mark.

Post by **PeteScim** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:30 pm

Does the fast road cam keep it tractable enough for normal use, town traffic etc

Post by **reliant-reviver** » Tue Nov 14, 2017 10:26 am

Never found a CVH feel un-tratctable with the cams I've run (Kent CVH22 & CVH33, Piper 285). Probably a different story with some of the race/rally profiles that have more lift, duration and overlap.

Only complaint I would have was the lumpy tickover my 1900 had, which was "cool" in it's self, but years of it rattled things loose and fatigued wiring to cause various breakages over the course of time.

Post by **joscac** » Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:35 pm

Would need to know that engine is in good health first !!!

Post by **joscac** » Sat Nov 18, 2017 6:17 pm

So I have filled all four bores with diesel.... turned engine a few times.... one bore with good compression and one bore with low compression retained diesel level. The level in the other two bores seems to have dropped quite fast ?!?!?!? ....... any explanations ?? Will take another look tomorrow morning.... Incidentally has anyone tried cleaning bores with Marvel Mystery Oil ?? It seems to be popular in the states.

I read about this chap who claims to have been using it for forty years in restoration projects to free stuck rings, remove carbon and free anything mechanical that's frozen up.

Alan SS1 · Post by **Alan SS1** » Sat Nov 18, 2017 7:33 pm

sounds like 'sticky' rings, I'd just give it a whirl and see if running it sorts itself out, nothing to lose, don't put too much diesel in as it will dilute the oil!!
I assume the head is off if you can see level drop?

Post by **joscac** » Sat Nov 18, 2017 9:23 pm

No, head is still on. ... peeping thro spark plug holes !!!!

i injected 50ml diesel into each bore...if need be i ll change oil before starting.... maybe diesel cocktail flowing thro engine might flush engine clean..... what about hydraulic lifters aare they fussy about oil quality?

Alan SS1 · Post by **Alan SS1** » Sun Nov 19, 2017 3:43 pm

piston ring s(IMHO) are never going to be 'bubble tight', there will always a be a small gap between each of the rings so fluid 'should' find it's way past 'eventually'

on other prjects if piston was stuck (and I mean STUCK) then we used to leave them standing for a few months and if the diesel HAD drained away then there was hope of piston moving, big round section of wood and a 5lb sledge hammer , that moved them

. note that this was on single cylinder 1930's vintage

dunno how fussy, i've run the correct oil when got the car, but recently I'm running 'old fashioned' 20W 50!! it seemed a touch rattly (114k) so to save stripping engine and rebuilding I went back to a thicker grade

Post by **joscac** » Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:03 am

Yesterday I managed to start the engine up after having been standing for over two years. Discovered a leaking fuel pump

Electrics need sorting: The three push on / push off switches are sticking. left headlamp motor is heating up when battery is connected. On the bright side brake lights work as well as rear indicators !

All was in working order before car was laid up !

Post by **philhoward** » Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:06 am

Those switches are known to get sticky from a lack of use - some exercising should free them off.

Post by **Old and Slow** » Thu Dec 14, 2017 1:42 pm

Congratulations on getting the engine running, I hope the compression tests "level out" and you don't need too much of a rebuild just yet.