Corner weighting

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Rattling
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Corner weighting

Post by Rattling » Mon Feb 27, 2017 12:53 pm

Hi can anybody tell me if there is anyway corner weighting can be done without scales . Thanks in advance for your replies.


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Re: Corner weighting

Post by CNHSS1 » Mon Feb 27, 2017 1:37 pm

You can use a corner weight gauge


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Re: Corner weighting

Post by Rattling » Mon Feb 27, 2017 2:13 pm

CNHSS1 wrote:You can use a corner weight gauge
Hi Craig, what does that look like and how do you use it ?


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Re: Corner weighting

Post by CNHSS1 » Mon Feb 27, 2017 2:46 pm

Will reply with pics and detailed instructions tonight when home mate


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Re: Corner weighting

Post by Rattling » Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:47 pm

CNHSS1 wrote:Will reply with pics and detailed instructions tonight when home mate
Thanks


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Re: Corner weighting

Post by CNHSS1 » Mon Feb 27, 2017 10:34 pm

This is a corner weight gauge

Image
Image

Essentially it's a load cell incorporated in a lever mechanism.

To corner weight a car you need a few things. Perfectly flat 'patch' or a normal floor which is then shimmer up so all 4 contact pat he's under the car are flat and parallel for height. A corner weight gauge of suitable weight rating for the car, and some time.
Pump all tyres up a bit, say 40psi so the sidewalls aren't squishy and queer the readings. Disconnect anti to bars front and rear and back off all the dampers to their minimum damping settings.
You will need a representative amount of fuel on board and either the driver or a representative load in the drivers seat.
Essentially the gauge lifts the car under the upper lip of each wheel rim. The idea is to take the reading just as daylight appears under each tyre in turn.
The readings are likely to be different at each corner so by raising and lowering the spring collars on each damper the load that each wheel 'sees' can be varied. Remember if you add load to one wheel, it will affect the diagonal wheel load as well. If the variances are too big for an extra turn or three on the spring platform to cure, you can easily move heavy items such as battery etc to assist.
Sounds more complicated than it is, difficult to describe, but a few hours spent playing with the setup will see benefits on track. Once you are happy you have a better balance across the car then the anti roll bars can be re connected but you must alter the droplink lengths to ensure that at your new corner weighted ride heights so it's highly likely the droplink will be differing lengths left to right on each axle.

Often when you've finished the car static will look odd, often skewed statically but once the drivers on board the corners will all share a better percentage of the load than if each corner is level statically

Hope that all makes sense

Craig


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Re: Corner weighting

Post by Rattling » Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:02 pm

CNHSS1 wrote:This is a corner weight gauge

Image
Image

Essentially it's a load cell incorporated in a lever mechanism.

To corner weight a car you need a few things. Perfectly flat 'patch' or a normal floor which is then shimmer up so all 4 contact pat he's under the car are flat and parallel for height. A corner weight gauge of suitable weight rating for the car, and some time.
Pump all tyres up a bit, say 40psi so the sidewalls aren't squishy and queer the readings. Disconnect anti to bars front and rear and back off all the dampers to their minimum damping settings.
You will need a representative amount of fuel on board and either the driver or a representative load in the drivers seat.
Essentially the gauge lifts the car under the upper lip of each wheel rim. The idea is to take the reading just as daylight appears under each tyre in turn.
The readings are likely to be different at each corner so by raising and lowering the spring collars on each damper the load that each wheel 'sees' can be varied. Remember if you add load to one wheel, it will affect the diagonal wheel load as well. If the variances are too big for an extra turn or three on the spring platform to cure, you can easily move heavy items such as battery etc to assist.
Sounds more complicated than it is, difficult to describe, but a few hours spent playing with the setup will see benefits on track. Once you are happy you have a better balance across the car then the anti roll bars can be re connected but you must alter the droplink lengths to ensure that at your new corner weighted ride heights so it's highly likely the droplink will be differing lengths left to right on each axle.

Often when you've finished the car static will look odd, often skewed statically but once the drivers on board the corners will all share a better percentage of the load than if each corner is level statically

Hope that all makes sense

Craig
Very many thanks Craig for the info ,yes it does explain the the process very well ,many thanks again.


Colin

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