Bond Equipe GT4S.

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Wed Apr 22, 2015 11:13 am

Still sharing the work between the Bond and the SE5. I have just chased up the cylinder head, the work is done they are just waiting for new valves. Replacing the valves was and option if required so I assume the old ones aren't good enough.
I was going to do the coke clean up of the radiator but when I looked at it closely I saw the fins on the front had deteriorated and a lot were missing or much smaller. So I decided it had to be replaced or be repaired.
The local guy did a mates Vitesse rad and to be honest it is a bit of a butcher job. He had to take it back 3 times due to leaks. So I decided to check other options. One solution is to fit an aluminum one from a Honda civic. These cost less than half the price of a recore. The only problem is it will look different and a support frame would have to be constructed. Reconditioned exchanges are expensive due to sending the old unit back. A search of Ebay resulted in me buying a NOS full width radiator outright. There are 2 widths of radiator the narrow ones have distance plates either side but the full width does away with these plates and hopefully the cooling will be better.
I also bought a new mild steel exhaust system, it was bought in error, fitted but the engine was never run. For £30 I can fit it and if necessary replace it with Stainless later, although to be honest I think mild steel will do for me. I am also trying to get a set of hoses, the top and bottom are standard but the heater ones are a problem. No hoses came with the car so I am trying to work out which set of hoses I need. I replaced the metal pipe from the rear of the water pump with stainless, again there are different versions. I opted for the plain one with a single pipe, then I found a Y piece amongst my bits which looks like the end of the original pipe had been cut off. It looks like it may have had an adhoc arrangement. I have asked Chic Doig for advice. He supplies Triumph parts knows the cars well.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:48 pm

I got the head back today £227 all in with 4 new exhaust valves. I fitted it with a new head gasket, making sure I got the right one for a recessed block. When I put the rocker gear back on I'll do a compression test for comparison.
When I get the engine running I want to make sure everything is ok before going onto the real work. I still want to suspend the read tub so I can get a good look at the chassis to make sure everything is ok and up to scratch before moving on. At this rate I will need another project for next winter!!!


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:51 pm

I couldn't resist it, with the head back and not much else I rigged a temporary fuel supply, the engine burst into life at the third attempt. For the short time I let it run it sounded good with no smoke. I'll try it for longer when I fit the radiator and exhaust.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by Scimher » Wed Apr 29, 2015 11:43 pm

That's a big motivational plus, Ray......



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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Apr 29, 2015 11:59 pm

Well done Ray, I expect it did sound good with no exhaust! :lol:


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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Sat May 02, 2015 7:15 pm

Thanks Geoff and Roger. I have fitted the cooling system, and two thirds of my exhaust off ebay. The rear box is wrong but luckily a spare rear silencer off a Scimitar fits ok. The mechanical fuel pump is no good, it was completely choked with debris. It still wouldn't work after cleaning. I have fitted an electronic pump which is easy to fit and works ok. I got a blanking plate to cover the hole the old pump left from my pack of spares off ebay. I want to fit the clutch pedal and hydraulics next, so I can test the gearbox and back axle

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Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Sun May 10, 2015 8:36 pm

I have done the clutch hydraulics and it works ok, before running it too long I checked the gearbox oil. The box was empty so when I get the correct oil I will fill it. I cracked on and fitted the brake master cylinder. It only needed one pipe to the 4 way adaptor. I filled it with brake fluid and even though it is a completely new system I bled it at the first try. To complete the pedals I had already fitted the accelerator pedal. It is an organ type one but is in my opinion a poor design. The cable passes through the bulkhead and is held part way along the outer cable then dangles into the foot well with no support. The centre cable attaches to the pedal with a nipple. It is difficult to get it to work smoothly and the inner cable can be dislodged from the pedal easily. There is a clip to prevent this, but they are no longer available. I cured it by drilling 2 holes and wedging the nipple into the slot with a split pin.

If I fit a seat and the steering column I will be able to drive it after filling the box with oil. I can test it on the driveway, then it is on with the other big jobs.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by Oldconn » Mon May 11, 2015 9:43 am

The thinking behind that organ-pedal accelerator was to make heel-and-toe gear changes easier. I never liked it either :|


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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Wed May 13, 2015 7:41 pm

Oldconn wrote:The thinking behind that organ-pedal accelerator was to make heel-and-toe gear changes easier. I never liked it either :|
I never thought of that, but it makes sense.

I have spent a coupe of days finishing the stuff under the bonnet. The engine now starts off its own battery and the accelerator is working correctly.

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I have also fitted the steering column and drivers seat. The plan is to turn the car around under its own steam, put it back on the hydraulic lift, make supports for the rear body tub, lower the chassis down leaving the body suspended. I will then be able to drive the chassis and the front away leaving the body in the air. I want to check that all is well under the rear tub, and check the work done on the chassis. I want to replace the diff pinion seal which should be a doddle with the body off. I know that there are parts of the chassis that are still showing rust so I will attend to this.
I have been doing some work on the dash and crash pad. The dash surround and crash pad are moulded from hard board. The area where it meets the bottom of the windscreen has been wet at some time and has become unstable. I thought I might reinforce the area by backing it with more hardboard glued on. I then thought I may use fibre glass to stiffen it up. I think fibre glass will be easier to get the shape right and leave slots for the demister vents.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by Scimher » Thu May 14, 2015 3:03 am

...That's looking lovely, Ray....



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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Fri May 15, 2015 7:55 pm

Scimher wrote:...That's looking lovely, Ray....
Thanks Geoff,

I had a bit of a set back today. I ran the car out of the garage, the brakes,clutch and gearbox worked fine. I had seen some oil on the floor underneath the engine before I moved it. I thought I had been a bit careless when filling the engine with oil, but when I got the car back on the lift and had better access I could see a leak coming from where the engine and gearbox join. This could be either engine or gearbox oil. I have put a container under the area and will have a better look tomorrow. A smell and taste test should reveal which is the source, either way it is going to be engine and or gearbox out a lot of work to replace a £4 seal. When I bought the car it didn't have any oil in it, how long it had been empty I don't know, this may have caused the seals to dry out or as I have found before, they can get stuck to the crank and on the first start get damaged.

This engine is from a Mk4 Spitfire so hopefully will have a proper crank seals and not one of those ineffective scroll seals. The WM says a special tool is needed to line up the rear crank seal holder. This slides over the crank and makes sure there is an even gap all around' I have managed to line up similar set ups in the past by wrapping a couple of turns of PTFE tape around the shaft, mounting the seal holder in place and then carefully pulling the tape out. My only concern is that I won't be able to resist on checking the main and big end bearing shells, the end float shims and oil pump so a £4 seal may cost a lot more!!!!


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by MikeyBikey » Fri May 15, 2015 8:27 pm

Ray, I wish i could offer something other than sympathy but I know the scenario. Sometimes knowing what to do is a liability..., You end up doing far more than you envisaged :)


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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Fri May 22, 2015 8:46 am

I have now suspended the rear body tub and the chassis is free to be wheeled out. I now have very good access so I am considering removing the gear box and trying to replace the rear crank seal with the engine in situ. I need to take the propshaft off to replace the diff seal so to take the box out won't be a lot of extra work. The gearboxes on these Triumphs are lifted out and aren't too heavy. I may do the gearbox seals as well.

I can see the bottom of the rear tub which is steel, it is rusty with flaking paint but no rot. I have a good few hours in front of me lying on my back scraping back to bare metal before treating the rust and painting. I have the tub suspended from the roof bars of the garage, I have added props to support the roof bars and I have put wooden props supporting the tub so it is a belt and braces set up.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by Scimher » Fri May 22, 2015 11:06 am

.....It's a shame it can't be at least turned on its side, Ray.......would be so much easier for you doing the finish on it etc...



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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Sat May 30, 2015 5:30 pm

Scimher wrote:.....It's a shame it can't be at least turned on its side, Ray.......would be so much easier for you doing the finish on it etc...
quite agree Geoff.

I have got the box,flywheel, clutch and back plate off. The seal housing came off without damaging the sump gasket.

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The seal didn't look too bad but when I checked the end of the crankshaft I found something stuck to it. I suspect that part of a seal had stuck to it. The oil leak looked recent and wasn't extensive. So either the present seal had stuck to the crank or it had been replaced without cleaning the crank properly. Luckily for me the crank is smooth with no wear ridge. I have fitted the new seal and gasket and with silicone gasket cement I have bolted it back on. One thing I found is that someone had taken a chisel to one of the bolts that hold the clutch cover on, this made it very hard to get a socket on. The bolts are very tight and an ordinary socket won't go on the nut. I had to use a 1/4" socket with an adapter to fit a 3/8" wrench. I have replaced the damaged bolt, whilst I can understand the need to use a chisel in some circumstances I don't agree with using the damaged bolt again.
So with all 3 seals replaced and a new clutch courtesy of the PO I can put the gearbox and propshaft back on tomorrow.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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