1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

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ocheye
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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by ocheye » Mon Feb 19, 2018 8:28 am

The ones on eBay from Asbourne turned out to be for a Minor. She pulled the ad and relisted them. I did get a set of Cowley +0.030 ones from her but I need +0.060. I was pipped at the post last week on a very good STD Cowley engine which was being sold by Nick Williams. Hey ho.
Best wishes
Andy



alan.wells
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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by alan.wells » Fri Mar 30, 2018 7:34 pm

How do Folks,
Well, the engine has been rebuilt after the piston problem which eventually as suspected was caused by tight Gudgen Pins on piston No 1 and 3, we horned the bores and carefully cleaned up the pistons reamed the pin holes and fitted new rings. The car has now covered approx 20 miles and fingers crossed all seems to be ok, but time will tell, if I do have further problems I will re instate my spare engine.
If anyone's interested, Len Pennington RSSOC member has made a 6 minute video titles Bert and the Tiger, this is reference to Sir Henry Segrave Land Speed Record re-enactment which took place on Ainsdale Beach Southport in 2016 it was the 90th anniversary.
If you look very carefully when the Red Sunbeam Tiger returns from its run, steam can be seen below the rad and engine, the Head Gasket had blown.
Please enjoy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98PASR-cJhg&t=2s
Regards Alan
PS please have sound on


SST 18Ti
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1926 Bullnose Morris
3/4 coupe with dicky
( project looking good )
M/N 5637

ocheye
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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by ocheye » Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:42 pm

What a great video. Makes me want to dig out my Genevieve dvd. Glad to hear that the 'new' engine seems fine now.
I'm still in the process of rebuilding Henry's engine but in the meantime I've bought a Bullnose engine (Cowley) that would appear to be in great order (as you say - time will tell). Unfortunately it did not come with a cylinder head so I will have to use Henry's unless I find one pretty soon. I could also do with a decent sump and dipper tray.
I have finally got a set of 'new' +0.060 pistons which I swapped for my +0.030's. Just need the other big ends doing by Geoff Bull who's going to be away on holiday for all of April. It means I don't need to rush.
Lancaster Engines are going to do all the machining and balancing and hopefully it will be in fine fettle eventually.
If you have any idea where I might lay my hands on the missing bits and bobs I'd be grateful if you could point me in the right direction.
Happy Morrissing
Andy McKay



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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by alan.wells » Wed Nov 14, 2018 8:33 pm

How do folks again,
Disaster has struck again, I'm in the process of removing the engine and gearbox yet again, it all started whilst John & I were returning to Keswick after marshalling on the VSCC Lakeland Trial late afternoon last Saturday, we came via country roads from Grizdale to pick up the A66 back to Keswick, as we joined the A66, we noticed clutch slip which was unusual as the clutch runs in engine oil, we continued until we were approx. 6 miles from Keswick, when the clutch slip was to excessive, and at the same time we heard knocking to the lower part of the engine which was worrying. We were very lucky to contact our breakdown recovery service, as I'm on O2 with no service and our John on EE we managed to contact them and recovered back to Keswick Camp site.
I will post the findings when the engine is out, hopefully by early next week.
Regarding the VSCC trial, there were many very expensive cars competing and the day was fully enjoyed by all on a better weather day than expected.
Regards
Alan


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1926 Bullnose Morris
3/4 coupe with dicky
( project looking good )
M/N 5637

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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by alan.wells » Sat Nov 17, 2018 10:19 pm

Well folks, after a lot of hard work over the past few days the engine and gearbox is now out and the units split, please see the procedure for this, at the top of the clutch housing , ( part of the gearbox ) in the photos below, the majority of the work is carried out through a 5 inch x 3 inch aperture using a spring type compressor tool.
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when all springs, cup collets and pins, the are remove from the flywheel studs, 6 in total, the gearbox can be unbolted and removed.

On examination of the clutch, it was badly burnt on the 2no corked plated in less than 1000 miles, but now I know the reason, in the centre of the clutch there in a splined hub, which the clutch plates are located and slide to engage and release the clutch, but if you look carefully you will see a considerable amount of ware on its teeth, thus jamming the plated and not allowing them to move freely on the splines, this should have been replaced quite some time ago. ( my fault not being observant enough )
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Pictures include, clutch removal from flywheel, burnt clutch plates and clutch centre hub.
Update to follow when I receive the new parts.
Regards
Alan


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1926 Bullnose Morris
3/4 coupe with dicky
( project looking good )
M/N 5637

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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by alan.wells » Sat Nov 17, 2018 10:21 pm

Sorry, Pictures not in correct order, oops


SST 18Ti
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1926 Bullnose Morris
3/4 coupe with dicky
( project looking good )
M/N 5637

alan.wells
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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by alan.wells » Sat Nov 17, 2018 10:23 pm

And some more
Attachments
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1926 Bullnose Morris
3/4 coupe with dicky
( project looking good )
M/N 5637

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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by philhoward » Sun Nov 18, 2018 7:45 am

Bad news about the gear but at least the root cause has been identified. Is this also the source of the knocking?



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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by alan.wells » Sun Nov 18, 2018 2:37 pm

No Phil,
Engine side this time, removed sump this morning and found quite a lot of white metal, definitely no 3 big end gone, plenty play, not striped it of as yet. So now we are onto plan B, refit the spare engine I have along with new clutch and clutch hub, this will probably be after Christmas, due to June becoming a garage widow yet again and of course our trip to Fleetwood, Dave Caswell's Christmas doo this week end and to follow up with Tenerife
Re the re-corking of the clutch, I have been given a contact called Charles Cantrill based in Aldridge, I have emailed him with pictures, so hoping for a reply early next week. Re the damaged engine we need to sort why the big end failed, I'll post pictures when stripped.
Regards
Alan


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1926 Bullnose Morris
3/4 coupe with dicky
( project looking good )
M/N 5637

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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by ScimmyMike » Mon Nov 19, 2018 12:24 pm

Loved the video Alan, presume you can either buy or get the gear remade somewhere, wouldn't imagine bits like this are just as off the shelf as scimitar bits


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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by alan.wells » Mon Nov 19, 2018 12:43 pm

Hi Mike,
Clutch hub gear available from B/M club spares at £70 and the re corking approximately £40 a pair, so not to bad price wise, it's my back that's painful. Still haven't removed the big end as yet, having easy day today
Regards
Alan


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1926 Bullnose Morris
3/4 coupe with dicky
( project looking good )
M/N 5637

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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by Old and Slow » Fri Nov 23, 2018 11:18 am

Here's my tuppenny'worth;
I might be way off beam as to the cause of the big end failure, but it crossed my mind....
Have you looked into electric oil pumps? The Mocal one from Demon Tweeks lists "pre-oiling engines prior to start-up" as a feature, which might overcome the cause of big end failure, if it was caused by a dry bearing. Of course you'd probably need a 6v version?
And the cause might be something completely different, in which case ignore everything I've said!!


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1926, Bullnose Morris Oxford 3/4 coupe

Post by alan.wells » Sun Nov 25, 2018 4:24 pm

Hi Phil, thanks for your comments re electric oil pump, but we now know the reason for the big end failure, you will see in the pictures, the oil pump which is working fine, the camshaft has a one very shallow lobe in which a plunger / follower, and spring return is mounted, for each revolution of the camshaft, the oil pump is pumped once, the oil is sucked via the internal thingy, with a ball bearing as a non-return valve from the bottom of the sump.
Now the failure of the big end white metal bearing, was due to not fitting the shims correctly between the conrod and its bearing clamp, we had trapped just one thin shim against the journal, not allowing the bottom clamp bearing to sit correctly, just a few thou out of alignment, you can see in one of the pictures the shims of which there are various sizes.
Well we now the problem, we can move forward with the rebuild, and this time, I must double check the my workmanship, I should say that the running oil pressure is no more than 10psi
Regards
Alan
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SST 18Ti
Motorhome
1926 Bullnose Morris
3/4 coupe with dicky
( project looking good )
M/N 5637

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