Vented Brake Discs & Stub Axle Bearings

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1800oldb
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Vented Brake Discs & Stub Axle Bearings

Post by 1800oldb » Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:21 pm

The car has just been MOT'd but with much shaking of the fitter's head over the front, pax side wheel bearing.
He let it go but said the next year it would be no chance (same as last year).
I downloaded, and read, Phil Howard's discourse on installing vented discs which made me look into the documentation that came with my car.
Surprise, surprise, my car has vented discs - installed in 2006.
However, does the modification mean the stub axle bearing is no longer the difficult as rocking-horse stuff to find, and I'll be able to source another bearing?
Off to look for more information - maybe I already have the answer - somewhere, just have to find it.
Or have I completely miss-read the article?
Wish me luck, and, if you have info, it would be most welcome.
Thanks



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Vented Brake Discs & Stub Axle Bearings

Post by philhoward » Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:28 pm

If it does have the Chevette upright/Carlton discs/Volvo calliper conversion then yes - you adjust the bearing to remove the play.

2 caveats - that the bearing hasn’t failed and the right bearings are fitted as there are two sizes..


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Vented Brake Discs & Stub Axle Bearings

Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:30 pm

Depends which vented discs you've got. If they're the "Phil H" discs, then you'll have the chevette uprights and easy-to-find chevette bearings. If it's the GW/QRG etc disc you'll have the standard uprights and bearings. If they're one of the other less common types, then more info required.


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Vented Brake Discs & Stub Axle Bearings

Post by reliant-reviver » Wed Jul 10, 2019 11:48 pm

A picture would suffice for identification of your are unsure.

I suspect you have vented "Graham Walker" discs.

New wheel bearings really available from the dealers.


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Vented Brake Discs & Stub Axle Bearings

Post by scimmy ben » Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:49 am

Roger Pennington wrote:
Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:30 pm
If it's the GW/QRG etc disc you'll have the standard uprights and bearings
Isn't there an "adjustment" technique using wet and dry on these if they are in good condition but a loose fit when installed?



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Post by peter freeman » Thu Jul 11, 2019 8:42 am

The inners of the bearing can be removed and a bit of the inner metal where he two halves come together can be ground off and then the bearings can be fitted as "normal" bearings - done it.



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Post by philhoward » Thu Jul 11, 2019 9:01 am

reliant-reviver wrote:
Wed Jul 10, 2019 11:48 pm
A picture would suffice for identification of your are unsure.

I suspect you have vented "Graham Walker" discs.

New wheel bearings really available from the dealers.
New "standard" bearings are available from the dealers - they might struggle with Chevette bearings!

If it's the GW setup, the hub nut is a Nyloc IIRC and the brake hoses go straight into the calliper - the Chevette uprights normally have a dust cap fitted over a castellated nut with a split pin and the hoses will be linked (usually) by small solid lines as the fluid entry point is on the inner side of the calliper.


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Post by 1800oldb » Sat Jul 13, 2019 1:43 pm

Thank you for the information and suggestions.
I’ve had another look at the invoice for the mod work.
QRG installed the vented discs - no further details (e-mailed QRG for any additional info but not holding my breath).
The wheel-hub is secured in position by a tightened down, split-pinned, castellated nut.
I assume this means Chevette struts with original (Reliant) bearings are installed.
Is more information required and do I need to take the wheel off and get to work with the camera as reliant-reviver suggested?



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Post by reliant-reviver » Sat Jul 13, 2019 1:50 pm

If there's no grease in sight it's likely all original fitment as Reliant front bearings are sealed.
Greasy small nut then chevette missing dust cap although unlikely as I'd go out on a limb and say there's no way QRG would supply and fit the Chevette based conversion.


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Post by td99 » Sat Jul 13, 2019 4:38 pm

Agree with Philip. Also, the standard hubs (with/without QRG vented kit) also used castellated nuts and split pin. Effect of a split pin in a nut done up to about 200 ft.lb or more :? :? :? .


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Post by 1800oldb » Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:24 pm

Haven't had a chance to look at the wheel just yet.
However, QRG say, although they have no detailed records, the bearings are original.
So, some time before the next MOT I've got to get the bearing(s) replaced.
Thanks for all the help and assistance.



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Post by Alan SS1 » Thu Jul 18, 2019 12:49 pm

1800oldb wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:24 pm
.
So, some time before the next MOT I've got to get the bearing(s) replaced.
Thanks for all the help and assistance.
Note that both myself & Peter (and maybe others) have 'modified' the inner face of the bearings, in my case changing out the used bearing for a BRAND NEW Reliant boxed unit did NOT improve the amount of play, hence the mods, link on here


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Vented Brake Discs & Stub Axle Bearings

Post by 1800oldb » Thu Jul 18, 2019 6:22 pm

1800oldb wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:24 pm
Note that both myself & Peter (and maybe others) have 'modified' the inner face of the bearings, in my case changing out the used bearing for a BRAND NEW Reliant boxed unit did NOT improve the amount of play, hence the mods, link on here
Is the modification: grind the inner faces using ? and ? - I'll look for it on the forum.
A couple of years ago, my car was checked at QRG. The bearings were OK (within Reliant parameters), although my MOT garage wasn't too happy.
The wear hasn't got worse (2x MOT).
Is there any information, from Reliant, regarding play in bearings?
Once again, thanks to everybody.



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Post by philhoward » Thu Jul 18, 2019 6:37 pm

Allegedly there is supposed to be a note in the MoT testing database for “some” play permissible in the bearings with the SS1 but I don’t suppose any tester ever checks...


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Post by peter freeman » Thu Jul 18, 2019 6:40 pm

Something I did for slice some time ago.

The SS1 bearings are not adjustable – or are they. I remember reading on the club site that someone had “bashed” the bearings apart ( might have been Alan SS1 ) and ground off part of the bearing then fitted it back together and set it up like a “normal” bearing. I fitted a new front bearing and found that it still had play not enough to make it a MOT failure but enough so that my MOT man commented on it. I did not like the bashed bit but came up with another way to get the bearing apart with little effort. See (fig1) the 4mm washer I cut in half then ground the edge off so it would fit between the two halves of the SS1 bearing. Put in the middle of the bearing with a G clamp I separated the bearing (fig2) - if it does not come completely apart then a right angled screwdriver or a allen key can be used to pop the inners completely out. Now grind a bit off the inner face (fig3) is the grinding wheel I used. Next clean everything completely – leaving the ground off metal in the bearing will destroy it quickly. Pack with new grease and fit back together – a vice is the easiest way to put it back together. Fit and adjust for play as you would with a “normal” bearing. I have now done two bearings and will do another when the weather improves – and closer to the MOT. You only need to grind off a very small amount to make the bearing adjustable – 1 or at the most 2 mm is enough and it can be removed from both sides of the bearing if necessary.
Peter Freeman
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