Ti starting

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Post by Dave Eddy » Tue Jan 29, 2019 5:57 pm

With engine off and pedal depressed it shows 11 ,one red one green.screw turned anti-clockwise
With screw turned clockwise ignition on pedal depressed it shows 31 three red one green



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Post by Dave Eddy » Tue Jan 29, 2019 5:59 pm

Thanks Jim will try to check those out



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Post by scimjim » Tue Jan 29, 2019 7:21 pm

Have you been through all of the checks and memory erase on pages EF-41 & 42 then?


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Post by old bean » Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:11 am

Starts when warm but struggles to when cold? Engine coolant temperature sensor. The white two pinned connector just above the thermostat housing.
What you may have done is connected it and the black one next to it that looks the same (temperature gauge) the wrong way around, this can also blow the coolant temperature sensor too, new one around £10.



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Post by hermeticist » Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:39 am

I'm actually having a similar problem, which apparently got worse when I serviced the car (not checked since changing the cambelt as I'm taking the chance to fiddle with the suspension before I replace the crossmember). It was diagnosed with a faulty thermal sensor (to ECU) but I suspect that it may also involve the injector wiring (did you say that you had replaced this?). This isn't based on anything scientific, more a hunch because I noticed some of the wiring was a bit toasted, I did a temporary repair but need to strip it all back and check the injectors (yet to turn the dizzy over to hear if injectors are firing) and replace some of the wiring. I have checked the compression (only when cold) and there doesn't appear to be an issue there. I wonder if you've noticed an overfuelling? In my case there is a strong smell of unburnt fuel and although it starts fine, when using some throttle, it is lumpy and not as I remember my other TI. I bow to the superior knowledge of the other members (I'm no great mechanic or knowledgeable on the Nissan engine!) but I would be interested to know whether your symptoms are identical and will happily provide data (items replaced or tested) if I can help to pinpoint the issue(s).



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Post by hermeticist » Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:42 am

I meant to add: the plug on my sensor was removed by a previous owner and replaced with two spade connectors. I have since replaced the coolant temperature sensor but couldn't tell which wire went to which side of the plug so may have blown the new sensor - thanks Old Bean.



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Post by Dave Eddy » Wed Feb 06, 2019 12:50 pm

Hi, all ,problems persist, is there a sure fire way to be sure the distributor is positioned in the correct place on the cam ? i understand that the rotor should be at no 1 on the distributor cap when piston at TDC but is there possibility to get dizzy to cam one tooth out ? its just that when i have mine set up it looks like the rotor is about coming OFF no 1 as opposed to coming ON/ONTO it ??



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Post by philhoward » Wed Feb 06, 2019 1:22 pm

Given the spark will always be slightly before TDC), then that doesn't sound particularly wrong.

To answer the original question, yes - you can get it a tooth out but I have a feeling the position of the dizzy will be many degrees wrong (possibly outside the scope of the actual adjustment available)?

Corky should know - he's had fun with timing up 1800Ti distributors more than anyone I know :lol:


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Post by PeteMac » Wed Feb 06, 2019 2:31 pm

The level of available adjustment should be enough to compensate for being a tooth out. Remember there's 2 adjusters - the one via the bolt on the block, and the second on the mounting plate behind.

Dizzy's not 180 degrees out perhaps? And remember the rotor turns anti-clockwise.

Plug leads definitely ordered correctly? (I've made this mistake.) Firing order as you look head on at the dizzy cap:

3 1
4 2


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Post by Dave Eddy » Wed Feb 06, 2019 3:31 pm

OK thanks petemac, thats a new one on me, ive noticed what looked like an adjustment bolt on the back of the dizzy but couldn't find any tech-spec to tell me what to do with it ,so what is it and how do you use it??
plug leads are good, timing belt spot-on,what i have noticed today is the timing marks seem to be off when i manage to get it to start but not sure if ive got a dodgy timing light. if the dizzy WAS 180 OUT ,would it run ?? and as i said earlier the rotor arm is in the close vacinity of the no 1 lead .



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Post by PeteMac » Wed Feb 06, 2019 4:12 pm

Dave Eddy wrote:
Wed Feb 06, 2019 3:31 pm
ive noticed what looked like an adjustment bolt on the back of the dizzy but couldn't find any tech-spec to tell me what to do with it ,so what is it and how do you use it??
Simply a case of slackening the bolt a little - it sits in a slot in the mounting plate so slackening will allow you a little more adjustment. Together with the other adjustment bolt, a considerable amount of adjustment is possible.
if the dizzy WAS 180 OUT ,would it run
Mmm, unlikely. More likely to cough, splutter and die. (Apologies, I was forgetting what the original issue was. :? )

Did you manage to check the air regulator? (Mentioned in Jim's post earlier.) I believe its flap can stick shut - it should be open when cold. Might be enough to give rough running when cold.

Re timing marks, when at TDC with rotor pointing to lead 1 the pulley timing marks should be visible and lined up with the pointer on the block. Put a spot of paint on the 15 BTDC mark on the pulley (if not already done.) That'll help when using the timing light.


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Post by Dave Eddy » Wed Feb 06, 2019 5:18 pm

haven't opened the air regulator but will tomorrow , yes the timing marks all line up and rotor roughly aligned but timing marks look off when running and using this OLD OLD stobe timing light. Thanks.



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Post by old bean » Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:13 am

Look at the relevent page in the CA18ET engine manual here : http://www.yariksteel.ru/manual/s12/s12_manual.pdf (Page 92 - EM 34)

You'll see that the Dizzy has a punched indent on the inside (viewable when fitted) of the drive cog that inserts into the head and meshes with the cam drive cog.
When the engine is at TDC compression on cylinder 1 (bottom engine pulley to 0 degrees), insert the Dizzy so that the stamped indent on the Dizzy cog turns back one notch and lines up with the timing line on the Dizzy shaft when the Dizzy is fully inserted. As per the phots on page 92. Also, there is a grub screw 180 degrees opposite the timing mark on the Dizzy drive cog, don't mistake this for the the punched timing mark or you'll set it 180 degrees out of time..

Failing that, check for vacuum leaks between turbo and inlet, including pop off valve. Also check fuel pressure regulator diaphram by pulling off vacuum hose pre regulator and sucking on it hard Misses.. Should get resistance and not be able to suck air through it if its working. Worth a try.

Check TPS position too and run a new ground from the ignition coil metal holster to the engine. Might help.



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Post by Corky » Thu Feb 07, 2019 5:18 am

philhoward wrote:
Wed Feb 06, 2019 1:22 pm

Corky should know - he's had fun with timing up 1800Ti distributors more than anyone I know :lol:
:lol: :w

There are a few things to check, to make absolutely sure the cam timing is correct :-

1) Check that the cam gear is fixed onto the cam in the correct orientation. There's a photo in the manual that will show which direction the key ways should be pointing.
2) Check that crank pulley is fixed onto the harmonic balancer at the correct orientation. With piston no.1 at TDC (can be checked by dropping a long screwdiver into the plug hole to feel where TDC is), The 2nd mark on the pulley should align with the timing arrow.
3) With point 1 & 2 covered and the timing mark at TDC, you insert the dizzy as per the manual. Line up the mark on the dizzy gear exactly as pictured. On insertion it will turn a few degrees.
4) Check to see that the rotor arm is pointing roughly towards the lead on the dizzy that will go to plug no.1.

If all of the above is spot on, then your static timing should be discounted as a cause of your issue. If the issue persists, then I'd start to look at the crank angle sensor in the dizzy.
Last edited by Corky on Thu Feb 07, 2019 1:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Post by Dave Eddy » Thu Feb 07, 2019 9:59 am

looked at air regulator this morning, its not serviceable,ie it is suaged shut, i can blow thru it so its not blocked or shut. guess the next step is double check the cam gear as i didn't refit that, then on to the dizzy !



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