Gaz Shocks for SS1.

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Gaz Shocks for SS1.

Post by Corky » Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:13 am

Mine runs like a go-cart on the road, very firm and you feel every single bump, white line, manhole cover etc. I've got 300lb at the front and 240lb at the back. There's about 14 clicks of firmness on the rear shocks and about 10 at the front. It took some experimenting to work this out, but it seems to hit the sweet spot for balance on track.

However, if I drop the back to about 8 clicks and the fronts to about 6, it rides not too badly on the road too. Firm and sporty :wink:

I'm not suggesting you go to the extremes I have, but personally I'd go a bit firmer than 190lb at the front. I've had 250lb up front on a road car, and it wasn't too harsh IMHO. I think RR had some 225lb front springs for sale a while back, I'd go with those over 190lb every time with 200lb at the back.


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Post by scimjim » Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:29 am

yep, surprised you've gone higher poundage at the back - it's not as heavy as the front and has a much smaller ARB, so generally you'd have the same or lower. You will be able to fine tune to an extent with the adjustable damping rate though, so I'm sure you'll find a decent compromise.


Jim King

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Gaz Shocks for SS1.

Post by binlicker » Wed Jan 30, 2019 4:59 pm

Well unfortunately I'd bought and fitted the front springs before it all became complicated with poundage , ID , and length. My thinking was whats 10lbs going to make, what do I know. If it becomes an issue I will have to change them. When I've bought springs before you tell them what car and how many you need and away you go. I understand what you both said about all the weight at the front but I'am a bit stuck regarding the front springs. When I ordered them the guy never said anything about poundage just £48 each which I queried but again Reliant parts expensive, but It's fair to say I've learned to shop arround and you can still get deals. Thanks



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Post by reliant-reviver » Wed Jan 30, 2019 5:54 pm

To add insult to injury you could have saved 6 quid buying uprated front springs from me.

As for the QRG 190s up front, 10lbs would make naff all difference.

As for the rear I would go with a minimum of 200lbs at rear.
Ride quality is largely down to shock absorber settings rather than small changes in springing. Anything up to 300lbs at the rear would be reasonable on a road car provided it aligns with the intended set up of weight, ride height and shock setting.


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Post by binlicker » Thu Jan 31, 2019 9:57 am

Well knowledge is power, if I need the uprated springs I now know where to come, oh and by the way I'd forgotten about the piston your post reminded me if you still need if give me your address and I will post it on. Thanks.



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Post by reliant-reviver » Thu Jan 31, 2019 11:32 am

Alas I thought I had spoken with you via PM regarding springs previously but realise it was someone else in the midst of a 1600 restoration new to the forum.
Should have popped up with my offerings earlier.

Will be in touch regarding the piston.


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Post by Old and Slow » Thu Jan 31, 2019 3:54 pm

Hi,
As RR says, 10 lb difference front to back shouldn't make much difference. IIRC the rear end being stiffer than the front you'll get natural understeer, and a tendency to oversteer with the back softer than the front. But the ARB is designed to influence this too, and the damper settings affect roll - lots to experiment with!! :)
IMHO go with what you've got and see what it feels like.
And enjoy!


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Post by binlicker » Thu Jan 31, 2019 5:19 pm

I will wait and see what happens, the car wont be on the road until summer. I get the impression I will be waiting quite a while before the shocks arrive. Thanks



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Post by CNHSS1 » Thu Jan 31, 2019 10:35 pm

Worth noting spring rate ISNT the same as wheel rate, the same spring rate F&R, doesn't have the same effect on the relative axles. Wheel rate is the rate of springing that the wheel sees. The position of the spring relative to the inner wishbone mount and the wheel dictates the lever ratio, and the inclination of the spring effects the increase or decrease in effective spring rate through the wheels arc of travel.

For a small sports, it's my experience that a higher spring rate at the front keeps and maintains the inherent ss1 chassis balance. Keep the rear spring rate below 250lbs (200-225 for a nice fast road car) and ride height 5" or 6" (original factory ride height). Front springs 250lb for pure road car, up to 400lb for track biased car. The front anti roll bar should be Polybushed and a little more tension put on the drop bolts. Some aftermarket adjustable damping dampers set at about 1/3rd hardness to 2/3rds will cover from fast road to track work.

Enjoy 8)


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Post by binlicker » Fri Feb 01, 2019 9:49 am

Your first paragraph might as well be written in Chinese. Not got a clue what it means although no doubt a lot of the forum members will. Now I do understand your second paragraph and I thank you for that. As I said earlier the set up will be 190lbs on the front because that's what I was sold and 200lbs on the fear. That's not a million miles away from your recommendations, again you recommend heavier springs on the front. I will stick with this set up and if I find the balance not right I will then change the front springs. It just a shame I didn't do more research before jumping in. Thanks



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Post by CNHSS1 » Fri Feb 01, 2019 10:46 am

If you don't understand--ask, simple as that :)
As for research prior to purchase, that's always a good idea and one of the major strengths of this forum. Bit late after the fact... :wink:


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Post by scimjim » Fri Feb 01, 2019 11:00 am

First para means basically the front and rear springs act at different distances from the tyre and the angle they act at (due to the way they’re mounted) so having the same poundage front and rear doesn’t actually mean they exert the same pressure at the tyre.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by binlicker » Fri Feb 01, 2019 11:37 am

If I'd 200lbs front and rear then that would be OK? I understand that factory spec was 180lbs all round. It seems to me you guys have put a lot of time effort and research into springs and dampers, is this for competing and or road use? I'am not a purest I need it right but if 180lbs gave the SS1 it's reputation for handling then why change it[For a road car] That may sound a little harsh but don't get me wrong I find it interesting all the options you have given me. When I first started working on the suspension I expected just to use a standard generic shocker and standard springs giving something like factory spec which I would have been happy with never having anything to compare it to. I cant just bin the front springs I will have to use them and if they dont give me the right ride height and the handling I am expecting then I will change them. Thanks



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Post by scimjim » Fri Feb 01, 2019 11:51 am

TBH I’ve had lots of fun on the road with 30 year old soggy standard setup - as long as you replace the front dampers for anything half decent. For road use your setup will be fine and you can play with damper settings as you see fit.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by Alan SS1 » Fri Feb 01, 2019 12:51 pm

scimjim wrote:
Fri Feb 01, 2019 11:51 am
TBH I’ve had lots of fun on the road with 30 year old soggy standard setup - as long as you replace the front dampers for anything half decent. For road use your setup will be fine and you can play with damper settings as you see fit.
with possibly older version, (1985, but fewer miles?) it is still standard set-up (although springs replaced last year or two? from QRG so 'normal'?)
still loads of fun, but i guess i should look at replacing the push-bike pumps at front end :shock:

and for what it's worth I actually do have poly bushed (only as I had a slab of PU to hand) and the drop bolts were snugged up 'tighter' but only as they are a piece of high tensile M10 within a steel tube :shock:


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