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Post by hermeticist » Sun Nov 25, 2018 6:44 pm

Hi,

I've finally found a car (thank you to everyone that helped, took the time to answer questions and sent me photos or showed me their cars, it is much appreciated!).

So I have an Istrian blue F reg. Car, waiting for a little attention (might need more than a little...), outside the house. I have a reasonable amount of knowledge, thanks to the forum, but fairly limited experience of actually working on cars and I wondered if you lovely people could offer some advice?

1. Despite it having a fairly extensive history I cannot find out when the cambelt was last replaced. Where would people recommend I get a belt and idler from (make: Gates?)?

2. If I remember correctly, the front crossmember needs removing. Should I attempt replacement of the belt myself :w ? Or can anyone recommend someone competent in the Plymouth area? Bearing in mind I have no idea of how to find TDC, that sounds like a better plan, although I understand that you can cut the old belt longitudinally and slide the new one on removing the old half belt afterwards. The trouble with this is that I have no idea whether the timing is currently spot on... And it sounds like a bodge!

3. I was thinking, whilst the front crossmember is being removed, that replacing the dampers might be an idea? I was considering Protech(?). Should I buy a set (cheaper?) or just the fronts for now? I'm presuming, as I'm not racing, that the single adjuster ones are suitable but are the two way adjustable ones worth getting? If I ring Protech will they know what I need? The front shocks look original, although they have rubber garters, which my old TI never had.

4. I think I should give the vehicle a good service, so I was going to replace oil filter, plugs, HT leads, distributor cap, rotor arm(?)... Is there anything else and where would people advise purchasing these bits? I've seen some NOS HT leads, would these still be OK or should I get Magnecors and which ones: 7,8 or 8.5mm?

5. At some point I will refurbish all of the suspension, starting with the front. I thought the simplest plan would be to get some serviceable wishbones and strengthen and rust proof them, then fit those, replacing the originals (I can refurbish the originals afterwards). I reckon I can do this, being a blacksmith... Fairly confident... I was thinking of getting Polyeurethane bushes and, again, where should I get these?

7. I suspect new front springs might be an idea, does RR still do springs? Can anyone recommend replacements?

6. I have been told that I need a new water temperature sensor, where might I be able to get one of these, can anyone help?

Many apologies for the panoply of questions, the multitude of which are probably stupid! It's rather odd being back behind the wheel of a TI after 20+ years but It's still making me smile...



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Oaksey
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Post by Oaksey » Sun Nov 25, 2018 6:54 pm

Glad you’ve found a car :)

1. Gates is the only brand of CA18ET belt kits I’ve seen in the uk for a little while. I’ve used a couple and they’ve been fine.

2. It’s completely up to you whether you do it yourself or not. You’re correct that the crossmember has to come off.

3. Replacing the front dampers is very quick job so don’t feel like you have to do them at the same time. Protech or Gaz would be my choice and single adjustment is fine for most.

4. Buy genuine Nissan HT if you can. They’re very well made although Magnecor is the best of the rest. Also change the fuel filter and clean the AFM I would say. You need fully synthetic oil too; most use Mobil Motorsport 10W60.

5. Poly bushes are available from both the Scimitar traders(Graham Walker, QRG) as well as direct from the manufactures.

6. Try the Scimitar traders, or buy a Nissan one and fit the necessary in line resistor to correct the gauge reading.


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Post by hermeticist » Sun Nov 25, 2018 6:58 pm

Thank you Mr. Oakes. I shall have a look through my red book as I have no idea where the fuel filter is... Does it matter where you get the dizzy cap etc. From?

Best wishes,

Dom



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Post by Oaksey » Sun Nov 25, 2018 7:13 pm

It’s on the bulkhead around the transmission tunnel so it often gets overlooked. Genuine Nissan is always the best but I think supplies are dwindling and you have to get what you can.


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2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 SSSC Champion
1974 Yellow Se5a Overdrive
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1973 Beige Se5a Overdrive
2005 Honda S2000
2014 BMW 330d xDrive
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Post by td99 » Sun Nov 25, 2018 7:25 pm

hermeticist wrote:
Sun Nov 25, 2018 6:58 pm
Thank you Mr. Oakes. I shall have a look through my red book as I have no idea where the fuel filter is... Does it matter where you get the dizzy cap etc. From?
Dom
If you're replacing fuel filter then also replace rubber fuel supply tubing to and from it. (Pig of a job to get to joint over gearbox). Original tubing is unreliable and tends to burst....


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Post by hermeticist » Sun Nov 25, 2018 7:35 pm

Yes, I'm worrying about the fuel lines. I do have receipts for replacements but I should really have a good look around. Is the line that goes down the transmission tunnel nylon? And should that also be replaced? I'm sure I've read some posts on here about doing such things...

Thank you!



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Post by td99 » Sun Nov 25, 2018 7:54 pm

Well if they've been replaced in last few years it shouldn't be a problem. It's when the original lines are still there that the problem is urgent. If you remove the fuel filter, examine the inside of te rubber tubing for incipient splits/cracks.
Nylon lines are normally OK but the joint from nylon to rubber on supply line is unfortunately somewhere above gearbox/clutch bell-housing as standard.


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Post by hermeticist » Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:26 pm

Thank you Trevor, I'll have a really good look around, I saw the awful story of the TI that was being restored :(



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Post by PeteMac » Mon Nov 26, 2018 9:59 am

Good to hear you found a car. I got my first Ti earlier this year, so am still learning, but I have done some of the things on your list. Looks like you've spent some time trawling through the forum as well. I've done the same - many times. And in most cases, the answers to my questions were there. It can just take a little searching.

If you've not already got one, you might want to get a manual from the club. For the engine, there are Nissan S12 manuals available online. (e.g. Admin Edit: Link removed to illegal content as per forum rules)

Cambelt isn't too bad a job. Yes, crossmember must be removed - 4 bolts at each end, I think. Remove the battery tray for easier access, and some of the bolts may be easier to get at from underneath. Disconnect the dampers at the outer ends and they can come out with the crossmember.

As for TDC, once you've got the timing belt covers off, you'll see marks on the pulleys whose position tell you when you're at TDC (see manual for details). The new belt will hopefully have 2 marks on it (my belt is a Gates and it does have the markers) and, when fitting, these must align with the pulley marks. Just be sure that, once the belt is off, neither pulley is independently turned.

Note that the lower pulley cover (the one with the timing marks on it) can easily be fitted in the wrong position. Assuming you're still at TDC, attach the cover with the TDC notch lined up with the timing pointer on the block. You might also want to mark the 15 BTDC notch with a spot of white paint or Tip-pex. Makes it easier to set with strobe once all back together.

Some might also suggest you renew the water pump while you're in there. Gates supply timing belt/water pump sets, I believe.


As for HT leads, I got some Magnecor 8mm from DC Performance.


I got a water temperature sensor recently (the one for the temp gauge, not the ECU temp sensor) from QRG.

All the best!


1987 1800Ti
(previous 1975 SE5a, 1968 GT)

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Post by hermeticist » Mon Nov 26, 2018 10:30 am

Thank you Pete, that's enormously helpful. I've got a copy of the RSSOC Red book but I might still chicken out, the thought of getting it wrong may become too much :w

I have thought about doing the water pump too, it sounds a sensible move whilst I'm fiddling.

I bought most of the service items last night (it makes it so much more fun when you have to trawl backwards and forwards to check parts... ;) ).

The water temperature sensor that I need plugs into the top part of the engine (found it in the Red book), so I'm going to investigate in a bit and then ring QRG. It would appear that these have a 33ohm resistor in line to correct the temperature gauge (so may be the same one that you replaced?). Does anyone know whether amperage of the resistor makes a difference? It sounds like it should but I can't find any specification other than 33 ohm...



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Post by scimjim » Mon Nov 26, 2018 10:45 am

make sure you're looking at the correct temp sender. The ECU sensor is on top of the engine, the gauge sensor is on the side (and needs 33 ohms resistor to make the gauge read correctly)


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Post by Dcrosby13 » Mon Nov 26, 2018 11:00 am

The bottom pulley also has to come off in order to remove the lower cover


I break stuff...... :w

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Post by hermeticist » Mon Nov 26, 2018 1:46 pm

Thank you, does the bottom pulley come off with just a nut? I have a feeling that I remember reading it was rather tight? Or... Do you need a puller or any other tools?

I'm off to investigate this water temperature sensor...



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Post by scimjim » Mon Nov 26, 2018 2:01 pm

just a bolt - it can be tight but be careful using a puller (or a hammer!) as the rear flange is very thin.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by PeteMac » Mon Nov 26, 2018 2:15 pm

Re timing belt, there might be some useful info here

I loosened the pulley bolt following Jim's advice - chock wheels, put in gear, handbrake on. And you'll definitely want a breaker/extension bar on your socket.

Handily, if you look at the photo at the top of the above thread, you'll see the ECU water temp sensor at top left (the plastic connector with 2 wires coming out the top). The temp sensor for the gauge is not far from it - lower down a bit and screwed in to the block, and with a single spade connector.


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