1800Ti engine removal

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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by scimjim » Wed Nov 03, 2010 7:27 pm

ah - that info wasn't in your PM, I specualted that the engine may have been from an auto Nissan and needed a different spigot bearing.

if it's only an inch out, the splines must be engaged ok?


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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by petesilcock » Wed Nov 03, 2010 9:24 pm

Geoff
The only item I would be cautious about is the valve stem seals
If the engine has sat around for some time, these could be stiff and crispy allowing oil past on overrun

Splines and boxes - either fall straight in or take 3 hours ---------------------------------------- :D - actually should be all emotions in order

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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by CNHSS1 » Thu Nov 04, 2010 12:01 am

s12 and s13 clutch release bearings are different design, but both fit on std Ti/SS1 clutch fork. i would assume Bluebird is similar, but its not from a rwd 'box so would double, triple check before fitting as its a PITA to swap if its wrong


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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by CNHSS1 » Thu Nov 04, 2010 12:06 am

ive bought various clutch alignment tools, cheap thru to Snap On, even made DIY ones from spacers, sockets and insulting tape and none really work any better than arsing about and swearing a lot. ive often resorted to slackening off clutch cover plate to flywheel bolts so they are just nipped, and then you can wiggle the clutch plate on the end of the input shaft to line up with spigot bearing. Once lined up, pull box off and carefully tighten clutch cover bolts, and then refit, goes on a piece of cake then (although in reality your arms will be dropping off by this point juggling a nissan box whilst chasing the engine around on the end of the engine crane :roll: :lol: )


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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by geoffp67 » Wed Nov 10, 2010 6:07 pm

The bluebird clutch release bearing is NOT the right one, so it must be the Silvia one. Which makes sense as the gearbox is from a Silvia.
My new 200SX clutch is now fitted, I'll put up a picture of my diy alignement tools, not at all a difficult job when engine is on a pallet rather than in the car.
Can someone confirm I've put the friction plate in the right way around ? According to the diagrams in the Reliant service book the thick side (of the metalwork in the middle) goes towards the gearbox.



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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by geoffp67 » Sat Nov 20, 2010 7:37 pm

Ive got my mitts on what I believe is an S13 clutch which fits, the release bearing is different - it fits on the iron carrier but wont rotate. Advice please !?!?!?



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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by CNHSS1 » Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:24 am

think Gemcka posted pics of both s13 and s12 release bearings fitted.


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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by geoffp67 » Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:43 am

He may have, but I can't find them .
I have found pics of the gearstick fitments, which might be what you are thinking of ?
Anyway, I shall put a "wanted" ad on and see what transpires
geoff



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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by Corky » Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:31 pm

I've just been asked by a member for tips on removing the engine from a Ti. I wrote and sent the PM and then found this thread :oops: :lol:

Anyhow, I thought I'd just add the content of my PM to this thread in case it's of any use to anyone. Or if anyone can spot something I've missed !

Steps to remove engine and box :-

Remove 4 bolts from prop shaft/diff flange and withdraw propshaft from gearbox.
Place a rubber glove over tail of the gearbox and secure with a cable tie (Alternatively drain all the oil from the box).
Undo the speedo cable from the gearbox and allow to hang free under the car.
Undo the electrical connectors for the reverse lights (Early box has two plugs, late has one I think)
Undo and remove the four M8 bolts that secure the gearbox mount plate.
Undo and remove the 2 bolts that hold the pivot plate for the clutch cable (M10)
Undo the two M10 bolts that hold the clutch cable mount plate. Allow the clutch cable to hang free.
Whilst under the car you can undo the M10 nuts from engine mounts (easier than doing it from above)

From inside the car, remove the gearstick. This may be a large circlip (later box) or a pivot pin and circlip (early box).

Remove the bonnet.
Drain the oil and coolant (there is a drain plug on the radiator)
Remove the front shock absorbers
Remove the shock absorber crossmember and spare wheel retaining strap.
Undo and pull away the air intake pipe from the turbo (the hard pipe to the manifold can stay in place)
Undo the bolts between the turbo and the down pipe (alternatively undo the square flange on the downpipe, but gaskets for this are difficult to obtain and the nuts and bolts are usually very corroded).
Undo the earthing strap from engine to chassis.
Disconnect all electrical contacts to the engine. When undoing the connections to the injectors and Nissan plugs, hold a magnet next to the retaining clip and withdraw the clip with a small flathead screwdriver (they are easily lost). The knock sensor plug is under the inlet manifold on the end of a grey wire, squeeze it and it should pull free. Don't forget the connectors to the distributor, battery, alternator and starter.
Disconnect the fuel hoses and plug them with a bolt. Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fusebox
Disconnect the throttle cable.
Disconnect the two heater hoses that attach at the bulkhead.
Disconnect the outlet and inlet hoses from thermostat housing and return line.


You should now be ready to pull the engine and box as one item. It's almost impossible to do on your own without damaging anything unless you have a load leveler on the end of the crane, as the angle of the dangle needs to change during the lift. There are usually tabs on the engine to connect the crane up to, one near the thermostat housing OSF and one at the back NSR.


Steve
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