Clueless1 SS1

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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Alan SS1
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Windscreen removal

Post by Alan SS1 » Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:05 pm

scimjim wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 9:28 pm
No need to remove screen for paint as the seal hides any poor masking :D
just need to make sure that the seal is securely 're-glued / affixed' :wink:


SS1 1600 (AJZ ----), Regal 330 (VAV ---), C30 (SK 57 ---)& 480 (EVU ---)

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scimjim
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Windscreen removal

Post by scimjim » Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:11 pm

Yep - I had one come loose at speed once :D

They’re not really seals, more like trims - providing the screen has been put in properly :W


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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Windscreen removal

Post by Clueless1 » Tue Aug 21, 2018 6:38 pm

Thanks everyone...just need to make sure that I don’t break it when I take off the tub!


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Alan SS1
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Windscreen removal

Post by Alan SS1 » Tue Aug 21, 2018 6:50 pm

Clueless1 wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 6:38 pm
Thanks everyone...just need to make sure that I don’t break it when I take off the tub!
personally I'd leave the screen IN PLACE if it's not broken, as Jim suggested the rubber surround will easily cover any masking issues ,and there 'should' be plenty of area to get paint around the frame without its removal, its a tricky area to spray any-way

bonding it back in is (I think) a specialist operation, as it will suffer severe flexing with the roof catches pulling on it , then not when roof is down

ultimately your call, but 'if it ain't broke . . . . .. . '


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Roger Pennington
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Windscreen removal

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Aug 21, 2018 8:02 pm

When my screen was broken by a stone thrown up by a lorry, autowindscreens replaced it. They used a special tool with suction cups on the inside, a long length of steel wire, each end of which was drilled through the bonding material, it was then attached to handles on the suction pads and wound through, cutting round the glass as it moved round the screen. The old screen could then be lifted out and the body cleaned up, ready for the new bonding material, which needed applying very evenly before the new screen was pressed in and left to cure.


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ss1 hub nut removal.

Post by mikeh » Fri Sep 14, 2018 9:11 pm

I've been reading the other post regarding the hub nut size.
I'm in the process of building my two cars and need to remove the front and rear hubs to upgrade them.
The cars have had the rear axle removed and are on axle stands.
Any ideas on an easy wat to get them undone ?
When i get 5 mins i'll start a project thread as i've got loads of pics already.

Thanks

MIke



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scimjim
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ss1 hub nut removal.

Post by scimjim » Fri Sep 14, 2018 9:37 pm

I have removed a few hub nuts off the car and every one has been a total pain! I have some to do in the next few weeks and I think I’ll probably jam a scaffolding pole into the trailing arm and jam it into one of the barn pillars to counteract the torque of my 2’ 3/4” drive brace with a short scaffolding pole on the end.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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ss1 hub nut removal.

Post by philhoward » Fri Sep 14, 2018 10:37 pm

I’ve been using an air impact wrench to get them off in the past - done it with just the front upright on the floor (not even in a vice) last time. Haven’t tried a rear hub yet but expect to be the same.

Takes a few goes of the rattler, but always got there.


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ss1 hub nut removal.

Post by reliant-reviver » Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:43 am

Rear hubs loose?
No worries!

Bolt wheel on.
Ratchet strap to pallet.
Breaker bar and shock loose.


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rhss1
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ss1 hub nut removal.

Post by rhss1 » Sun Sep 16, 2018 1:23 pm

My car is pretty much everything off it, the frame only has the suspension and differential still attached. What's worse is it's on a nice little trolley and rolls around.

The left front came off pretty easily, I had a bit of pipe over a 1/2 inch breaker bar and I braced my foot against the bottom B post to keep the frame still, and pulled hard suddenly.

The left rear I wedged a crowbar between the studs and the floor of the garage. Similar results.

For the tight right side hubs I'm going to drill a hole in a bit of steel pipe to go over one stud and use that as a brace against the ground.

[edit - a day or two later]

Pipe with a hole in it works a treat to hold the rear hub still.

I also supported the outboard end of the braker-bar with an axlestand. Six feet of bar on the socket and they came loose.
Last edited by rhss1 on Tue Sep 18, 2018 1:38 am, edited 1 time in total.



Clueless1
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ss1 hub nut removal.

Post by Clueless1 » Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:32 pm

I’ve done mine today in readiness. The o/s were quite tight ( 13 stone jumping on a breaker bar tight), the n/s front was finger tight but the rear needed a lot of heat then a breaker bar. Hope that the rest of the suspension comes apart as easily 😁


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Water pump

Post by Clueless1 » Sun Sep 16, 2018 9:01 pm

Hi, whilst working on my SS1 today I noticed this. Doesn’t look standard. Does anyone know what it should look like? Ignore the leaf that’s photo bombed it!
0ED4117C-1AF1-4199-90DC-A333DBE08217.jpeg
0ED4117C-1AF1-4199-90DC-A333DBE08217.jpeg (351.17 KiB) Viewed 469 times
I will have a better view in a couple of weeks when the engine and box come out.


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Water pump

Post by philhoward » Sun Sep 16, 2018 9:07 pm

I think it’s supposed to be a rubber reducer going to a 16mm solid tube that goes under the exhaust, then splits into 2 - one is the return from the heater, the other the return from the inlet manifold.


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Alan SS1
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Water pump

Post by Alan SS1 » Mon Sep 17, 2018 12:38 pm

yep, the moulded rubber is prone to failure/difficult to find? ? ?

I used a copper 22mm to 15mm reducer and then the steel pipe is now made from domestic 15mm copper pipe, saves corrosion issues :-)


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scimjim
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Water pump

Post by scimjim » Mon Sep 17, 2018 12:38 pm

That pipe is readily available from club traders I think? Provably eBay too?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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