Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

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Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by Roger Pennington » Fri Apr 23, 2010 4:56 pm

Recently my electric window switches on the Yellow Peril started to become erratic and intermittent in their operation, so I decided to squirt in some electrical switch cleaner. This seemed to have the effect of causing them to seize up completely! Not what I wanted, so having nothing to loose, I decided to take them apart. I thought I would also document the process as I know switches are often a problem area, due to their design which allows dust and dirt to get in.

So, to start with, here’s the switch as it looked when removed from the car:

Image

First, gently lever up the top and bottom of the outer housing, where it overlaps paired lugs on the inner part; this allows it to be slid off, revealing the rather foul looking insides:

Image

Next, remove the operating lever part, by gently easing it’s legs off the studs on which they pivot. You can see that this has a couple of spring-loaded plungers in it (white). The switch itself consists of a couple of copper “rockers” which rest in pivots and are rocked in one direction or the other by the plungers in the lever, making or breaking the contacts as required. In the photo I’ve lifted one of those out, and you can see the dirt and muck all over it.

Image

So then it’s just a case of carefully cleaning all the parts and reassembling. Here are the parts ready to go back together. Note that you need a light smear of lubricant on the centre “V” of the rockers, to allow the sprung plungers to slide over them when the lever is operated (I think that’s why the switch seized after spraying in contact cleaner!). Reassembly is just the reverse of dismantling (to coin a phrase)

Image

And that’s it, job done. Cost zero (just a little bit of time). The switch works better and more smoothly than it’s done for a while. Hope that helps somebody, if yours need doing it’s worth having a go as a little care and cleaning can both save money, and save the time and hassle of trying to find a replacement switch. The basic principles should be transferrable to the other switches as well.

....Roger

(usual disclaimers, etc........)


....Roger

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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by scimjim » Fri Apr 23, 2010 5:10 pm

another brilliant technical article Roger.

Headlight and 4 way flasher switches are known for failing - either due to lack of use (4 ways) or arcing (headlights).

The innards are common to all, it's just the number of pins on the back and the picture on the front, so old switches can be cannibalised to repair others.


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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by toomanysabres » Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:11 pm

I'll just add that the lighting switch contact strips are slightly different to each other so its important to note which side they go. I also noted recently that they are symmetrical end to end so if a contact pip is burned a bit, turning it round will give it a new start. The big hole in the outer case is UP for the bulb and the missing pins side is also UP for off. Windows are centre off so that doesn't apply there.


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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by Gemini Bob » Sun Nov 13, 2011 1:17 pm

Hazards are a two way switch, one way for hazards and the other for indicators. I have just refurbed all the switches and it is a simple as Roger suggests, I also greased the little springs and the socket that they and the plungers fit into with a lithium based grease.


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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by robster » Tue Aug 05, 2014 3:58 pm

Instructions followed - window working...thank you. 8-)



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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Aug 05, 2014 4:01 pm

Excellent, good result - thanks for letting me know! :)


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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by Coco La Blanc » Tue Aug 05, 2014 5:21 pm

Hi Dodger,
I have just been through that whole process in the campsite at the 'Le Mans Classic' as one of our 'very longstanding' members had problems with his Switches on the way down however needless to say both switches desperately needed thorough cleaning and were patiently rebuilt. After a little persuasion both switches back in action and the recipent, although NOT offering a beer or two in full payment, was able to drive away with his 'Princess Anne' SE6a fully working. :| :mrgreen: :|
Regards,
Viv



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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by scimjim » Tue Aug 05, 2014 5:43 pm

:W

Image


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:05 pm

Viv, I guessed from your description, that might be the one! Does that mean we can display the Royal Warrant "scimitar fettlers by appointment" :lol:


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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by Coco La Blanc » Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:50 pm

I'm not accepting responsibility for that (Fettlin - oh No, No, No, Honest Guv I never touched the old gal !!!). You never know I may get a visit from 007 and a half (I think her name is - Blond !!!).
Regards,
Viv



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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by tony.idle » Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:05 pm

Roger Pennington wrote:Viv, I guessed from your description, that might be the one! Does that mean we can display the Royal Warrant "scimitar fettlers by appointment" :lol:
This is Geoffrey we're discussing: it won't be a very exclusive group :mrgreen:


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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by Coco La Blanc » Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:29 pm

Dodger/Tony/Et Al,
I hope I'm not letting too much out of the bag but in that same field in 'Le Mans' after the fettling of Geoffrey's Royal, his Pride and Joy was entered, literally from the rear, without an appointment by a Big lad from Croydon (he was spotted attaining some very awkward and wierd positions whilst constantly moaning !!!). Geoff looked a little bit concerned but Barbara just had a big smile on her face. This was the second time I had seen Geoff a little purturbed (excited ?) during this extended french vacance however I am sure he will be along shortly to explain why a smiling frenchman in the dodgy back streets of 'Le Mans' is not always what he seems.
Regards,
Viv



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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by TONYG » Mon Dec 21, 2015 11:44 am

Your excellent article on electric window switch overhaul.Can this also be applied to the hazard warning light switch?
I have had to order a refurbished one from G.Walker for 45 pounds and they pay 15 pounds for the old one.
If it is a similar task to the window one I will fix it myself and keep it.
Once again, many thanks for your fine work.
Tony Gilmore



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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Dec 21, 2015 3:36 pm

Cheers Tony :)

The honest answer would have to be that I don't know, as I haven't done a hazard switch, but AFAIK all the switches follow the same principle, just with small differences to accommodate the differences in switch pattern or connection. The thing I had in mind when I started, was that effectively, the switch was not working, so I couldn't make it worse! :lol: That gave me the confidence to take it apart, and I was then surprised to find how basic it was inside. :)


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Re: Se6a Electric Window Switch Overhaul

Post by simmit » Tue Jul 19, 2016 1:29 pm

Roger Pennington wrote:Recently my electric window switches on the Yellow Peril started to become erratic and intermittent in their operation, so I decided to squirt in some electrical switch cleaner. This seemed to have the effect of causing them to seize up completely! Not what I wanted, so having nothing to loose, I decided to take them apart. I thought I would also document the process as I know switches are often a problem area, due to their design which allows dust and dirt to get in.

So, to start with, here’s the switch as it looked when removed from the car:

First, gently lever up the top and bottom of the outer housing, where it overlaps paired lugs on the inner part; this allows it to be slid off, revealing the rather foul looking insides:

Next, remove the operating lever part, by gently easing it’s legs off the studs on which they pivot. You can see that this has a couple of spring-loaded plungers in it (white). The switch itself consists of a couple of copper “rockers” which rest in pivots and are rocked in one direction or the other by the plungers in the lever, making or breaking the contacts as required. In the photo I’ve lifted one of those out, and you can see the dirt and muck all over it.

So then it’s just a case of carefully cleaning all the parts and reassembling. Here are the parts ready to go back together. Note that you need a light smear of lubricant on the centre “V” of the rockers, to allow the sprung plungers to slide over them when the lever is operated (I think that’s why the switch seized after spraying in contact cleaner!). Reassembly is just the reverse of dismantling (to coin a phrase)

And that’s it, job done. Cost zero (just a little bit of time). The switch works better and more smoothly than it’s done for a while. Hope that helps somebody, if yours need doing it’s worth having a go as a little care and cleaning can both save money, and save the time and hassle of trying to find a replacement switch. The basic principles should be transferrable to the other switches as well.

....Roger

(usual disclaimers, etc........)
Roger.
Help! How do we remove the window switches without breaking anything (specifically for MB but suppose 6a is same)?
Both switches are mounted on a small plastic trim plate which is in turn fixed to the centre arm rest panel. I can tease the switches so far out the trim plate but not all the way. The trim plate itself doesn't seem to want to release from the panel. The trim plate is already cracked/ split and I don' t want to make it worse so how do I remove the switches?



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