Hi
Could anyone in the know give me some idea of what primer to use on the nose cone and tail piece which I've rubber down to the black rubbery finish? I assuming you may need a different primer to that used on the rest of the car. I'm painting the panels off the car.
Painting SS1 Nose Cone et
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AJL Electronics
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Re: Painting SS1 Nose Cone et
Black rubbery finish? It should be glass fibre on the nose. The original rear spoliers were black rubber though. Priming is done with epoxy primer, my preference is Lechler rather than Jotun (marine). The rubber spoiler IF CLEAN ENOUGH, should also benefit from the same primer. It is a very flexible primer and will not crack off provided that the prep was good enough, something that may prove difficult with secondhand rubber.
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Re: Painting SS1 Nose Cone et
original nose cones aren't GRPAJL Electronics wrote:Black rubbery finish? It should be glass fibre on the nose. The original rear spoliers were black rubber though. Priming is done with epoxy primer, my preference is Lechler rather than Jotun (marine). The rubber spoiler IF CLEAN ENOUGH, should also benefit from the same primer. It is a very flexible primer and will not crack off provided that the prep was good enough, something that may prove difficult with secondhand rubber.
a sort of flexible 'rubbery stuff' is how I'd describe it.I just used 'normal' celly primer and a couple of thin coats worked OK!
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Re: Painting SS1 Nose Cone et
Nose cone is certainly the Dunlop rubbery stuff (like the wings). Not sure how flexible the epoxy primer is? Whatever they paint bumpers with these days will probably be flexible enough though.
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Re: Painting SS1 Nose Cone et
nose, outer wings and rear light sections are Reinforced Reaction Injection Moulding (carried out by Dunlop).
Jim King
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Re: Painting SS1 Nose Cone et
Of course they are. It is a plastic rather than rubber material.
Epoxy primer every time. I know I keep banging on about it, but it does really seem to be a wonder material. It offers better adhesion than etch primer, seals the surface and will not react to any other type of paint on top. It is also the only primer where it is actually possible (and encouraged) to apply filler / stopper over. Being non isocyanate it is also sprayable without the air fed mask that 2K primers demand. Lechler is designed for automotive use and requires less blocking than the Jotun or rebadged variants. Suggest 15% thinners though (Lechler thinners, not universal).
Epoxy primer every time. I know I keep banging on about it, but it does really seem to be a wonder material. It offers better adhesion than etch primer, seals the surface and will not react to any other type of paint on top. It is also the only primer where it is actually possible (and encouraged) to apply filler / stopper over. Being non isocyanate it is also sprayable without the air fed mask that 2K primers demand. Lechler is designed for automotive use and requires less blocking than the Jotun or rebadged variants. Suggest 15% thinners though (Lechler thinners, not universal).
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Dot
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Re: Painting SS1 Nose Cone et
Thank you all for your comments.
Lechler Epoxy Primer sounds ideal. Forgive my ignorance but does the top coat go straight over it or do I need anopther primer and do I need a tint for it. Also, being 2K do I clean the gun with the thinners in the usual way?
Maybe a silly question but what's "blocking" - not a term I've come across.
As you can see, I'm a babe in arms but I'm determined to give it a go myself!
Lechler Epoxy Primer sounds ideal. Forgive my ignorance but does the top coat go straight over it or do I need anopther primer and do I need a tint for it. Also, being 2K do I clean the gun with the thinners in the usual way?
Maybe a silly question but what's "blocking" - not a term I've come across.
As you can see, I'm a babe in arms but I'm determined to give it a go myself!
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AJL Electronics
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Re: Painting SS1 Nose Cone et
You don't need to use anything else. Topcoat of your choice goes straight on top.
You can tint the primer if you wish. I do different tints for successive coats, so that I can see where I am whilst blocking.
Cleaning the gun is done with the Lechler thinners initially, then you can change to gunwash.
Blocking is flatting down the primer. It is usual to have the paper wrapped round a block to ensure eveness of sanding. Using fingers can lead to tramlines if you are not careful.
Initial grade before epoxy is 120 grit. Then 320 grit will do if laying a solid 2K colour, or 500-600 if COB (clear over base) I recommend Abranet discs for flatting.
You can tint the primer if you wish. I do different tints for successive coats, so that I can see where I am whilst blocking.
Cleaning the gun is done with the Lechler thinners initially, then you can change to gunwash.
Blocking is flatting down the primer. It is usual to have the paper wrapped round a block to ensure eveness of sanding. Using fingers can lead to tramlines if you are not careful.
Initial grade before epoxy is 120 grit. Then 320 grit will do if laying a solid 2K colour, or 500-600 if COB (clear over base) I recommend Abranet discs for flatting.
Yes, we can mend your Scimitar!
Order your Scimitar parts any hour of the day at http://www.classicmicrocars.com (member's discounts).
Fancy a holiday in Gael, France? http://www.ianrhu.com
There is no point trying to teach a pig to sing. It doesn't work and it annoys the pig.
Order your Scimitar parts any hour of the day at http://www.classicmicrocars.com (member's discounts).
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There is no point trying to teach a pig to sing. It doesn't work and it annoys the pig.
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Dot
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Re: Painting SS1 Nose Cone et
HiAJL Electronics wrote:You don't need to use anything else. Topcoat of your choice goes straight on top.
You can tint the primer if you wish. I do different tints for successive coats, so that I can see where I am whilst blocking.
Cleaning the gun is done with the Lechler thinners initially, then you can change to gunwash.
Blocking is flatting down the primer. It is usual to have the paper wrapped round a block to ensure eveness of sanding. Using fingers can lead to tramlines if you are not careful.
Initial grade before epoxy is 120 grit. Then 320 grit will do if laying a solid 2K colour, or 500-600 if COB (clear over base) I recommend Abranet discs for flatting.
Thanks for the info, sounds spot on. I have various blocks for rubbing down but blocking is a term I've not heard before. Having sprayed many a motorcycle tank before I am still a bit nervous of c......g up the larger areas involved with a car, especially grp. Thanks again
Ray
