How to Remove an SS1 Body Tub

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scimjim
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How to Remove an SS1 Body Tub

Post by scimjim » Sun Jul 07, 2013 6:53 pm

To remove an SS1 body tub:

remove fuel filler panel (disconnect aerial if fitted and remove fuel cap - drill out hood poppers if the rivets go all the way through), bootlid and bootliner (bootlock catch, light and 2 bolts in boot front outer corners (not captive nuts)) - boot damper lower attachment "balls" need to come out on cars with dampers.

I've never removed a tub without removing the front wings but I think you could leave them on and just remove the 2 allen headed bolts that hold the front armature onto the A post? Likewise I've always removed the rear wings and armature but I don't think they NEED to come off to lift the tub?

both seats out (2 bolts front and back - nuts still captive if you're lucky)

seat belt mounts off top of B post (remove the 3 bolts and spacers holding the complete mounting plate on), B post trim panel has a popper for the hood cover that needs to be drilled out, inertia reel out of bottom of B post (rear lowest bolt each side is a pig) - disconnect aerial join behind passenger seat while you're down there.

roll bar out (if fitted) - 3 bolts each side on main feet bases (captive nuts) - side bars come off with seat belt mounts above.

I disconnect the speedo cable at the gearbox end and lift it with the tub

reverse light switch connections at gearbox

clutch cable - disconnect either end but don't forget the bracket on the RH of the engine that the clutch cable should be secured to if you disconnect at the box.

throttle cable - disconnect either end

Choke cable (if fitted) from carb

brake pipes from MC

I remove the front loom starting at the front left hand headlight/motor/relay/horn/side/indicator/screen wash and feed it all through the rad support (with cooling fan plug), via right hand bits, to the fuse box - unmount fuse box and the loom will then go with the tub. For CVH there is a loom running through the tub above the dizzy, for the coil, dizzy, heater motor, alternator light, starter feed and low coolant switch, for non-CVH it is a slightly larger sub-loom for the engine (injectors, AFM, coil, etc) - I disconnect from the engine side and remove the sub-loom with the tub. A Ti also has a pair of wires to the fuel pump that exit through the tub above the axle - with connectors there.

Rear lights/fuel tank/elec aerial/boot light/HRW loom runs up the transmission tunnel (inside, under the carpet) and out through the body tub behind the drivers right ear - disconnect everything in the boot including electric aerial, boot light, fuel tank sender and fuel pump (Ti)

door cards off, disconnect elec windows and mirrors looms inside doors, disconnect hinges (I disconnect at the door end) - unbolt interior light switches from A post and feed into footwell

steering wheel off - I disconnect the steering column at the rack and take it off with the body tub

remove dash (2 screws each side on A pillar), side panels and centre console (heater controls and switches don't need to be disconnected but it gives better access for the cross brace bolts)

remove bonnet release cable end from bellcrank under dash and then remove handle from A post

2 bolts in the footwell front outer corners (captive nuts in chassis)

2 bolts either side of A post cross brace (captive nuts in A post) There's also a hidden bolt that goes from the cross brace onto the pedal box (pedal box itself will stay with the tub) - the cross brace doesn't need to come out but if you do want it out, remove the 2 bolts in the centre bracket (captive nuts on a plate which may or may not be riveted to the engine bay bulkhead).

2 bolts hidden under carpet on the transmission tunnel top surface in front of gearstick and the handbrake mounting bolts (all captive nuts in chassis). gearstick can stay in place

3 rivets up each A post (front face - bloody awkward to get at), loads along the sill, then 2 or 3 more up the B post - 2 hidden at the top of each A post and

the tubs were dropped on with loads of sealant up the A/B posts and along the sills - so I always run a Stanley along there and use blocks of wood on the underside of the floor with jacks to start it off.

If anyone would like to add anything I've missed, I will try to add photos over the next few weeks/months and make it a wiki entry
Last edited by scimjim on Wed Jul 17, 2013 9:23 am, edited 6 times in total.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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scimjim
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How to Remove an SS1 Body Tub

Post by scimjim » Fri Dec 06, 2019 8:14 pm

More info on removing the dash (you don’t HAVE to but it makes it easier to access the top door hinges and the beam that runs between the A posts).

Remove steering wheel (1 nut under the centre cover).
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Disconnect choke cable at engine (if fitted)

Remove column cowl (2 screws underneath into the dash, one underneath into a bracket hanging off the stalks and one each side holding the two pieces together plus light switch plug).
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Remove column stalks (1 screw clamping it to the column and elec connections to each stalk).
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Remove instrument cover (2 screws underneath return flange and 2 plastic butterfly nuts, totally inaccessible under the dash onto studs bonded to the cover).
Remove instruments (2 screws each side, speedo cable and 2 elec plugs).
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Loosen centre console (screws in each cheek panel) - you can twist it to remove dash or remove it totally by disconnecting every switch, radio and lighter as well as heater cables )
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Then the dash is just 4 screws (2 each side on the A posts) pulling clock plug, headlight reset switch, interior lights, speaker cables and heater hoses off as it comes away if you haven’t already.
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A608DD8C-7A97-4C8F-BA28-080AF9DEC0C6.png (262.12 KiB) Viewed 524 times


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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