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Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Oct 22, 2019 1:45 pm

As far as I'm aware standard for a 6/6a is a 14W motor with a 130deg gear. Bear in mind that 14W spares (inc gears) are pretty widely available - for instance see here for a range of gears


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Post by scimrick » Tue Oct 22, 2019 3:47 pm

Denis

75710H is the topmost ref nr on cover plate of the 14W motor I have repurposed for use on my GTC, as per my earlier photo. It also has arrow pointing to the Right, ie right hand offside park position. As I said in earlier post, it's fairly easy to reposition gear wheel by 180 degrees to function as left hand nearside park position as standard set up on GTC. As Roger states, the 14W components are readily available, including brush sets, gear wheel and the park switch. The ability to get future spares/replacement items is what persuaded me to change to the 14W motor.
Hope this of use to you.
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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Oct 23, 2019 12:52 pm

Here are my Se6a 14W wiper motors. Given my lengthy ownership, I have every reason to believe they are original, and the close correspondence of the wiper date codes and the car build dates tends to back that up. They are both fitted with 130deg gears.

Yellow Peril Wiper.jpg
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Mulberry Wiper.jpg
Mulberry Wiper.jpg (309.95 KiB) Viewed 688 times


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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Thu Oct 24, 2019 12:23 am

scimrick..Richard
scimrick wrote:
Tue Oct 22, 2019 3:47 pm
Denis
As I said in earlier post, it's fairly easy to reposition gear wheel by 180 degrees to function as left hand nearside park position as standard set up on GTC. Richard
My 16W gearwheel has the crankpin and switch-operating-cam in fixed positions, so no matter where you re-insert the gearwheel it will always continue to rotate until cam reaches switch pin and opens contacts and stops.......the crankpin or cam position is the only thing that will control a differing stoping point....perhaps the 14W crankpin or switch cam are able to be detached and moved to a 180 degrees different position?

Shot self in foot!!! Realised, after another attempt at tightening furthest nut that in fact the 3/8AF ring was actually too big for the taller new nut I had put on......5/16 one fitted and job done in 5 minutes :D .So 2 hours of previous late night contortions with 3/8 was a waste!!!! :oops:

New 14W brush-plate arrived (2 days after ordered - magic) but after much consideration decided it was going to be too much modifying to fit it to 16W and get wires into switch so awaiting delivery of a used (said to be working ok) 14W 130 motor (75683H...12V 51 73, 54071811)...fingers crossed it will be ok when I open it up to inspect. At least I will now have a spare 14W brush set.
Scim noggin tomorrow but sadly not in the GTC. Want to take the opportunity of disassembled state to clean all the plugs/sockets and steering column wiper switch (and give the old bones a rest).

Still not decided what to use to seal wheelbox spindle spacer to body.???

looking up towards enlarged access opening (cross brace/glovebox attachment bar at top of picture; wooden wedge holding back insulation over fan outlet pipe)
DSCF1179.jpeg
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closer shot of enlarged opening with body just next to screen duct pipe cut back as far as possible and top and left of opening also cut back further
DSCF1177.jpg
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Even closer shot..looks easy access but finger tips only will reach furthest nut through the about 1 inch gap in which rest of hand just squeezes into. (wheelbox right way up this time!) Where fingers join palm ends up filling the gap between outer body and inner just by screen trunking.
DSCF1178.jpg
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Dennis


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Post by scimrick » Fri Oct 25, 2019 10:48 am

Denis
4 photos below showing separation of the nylon gear wheel from the "cog" wheel. I used a sharp paint scraper to gently separate the components and working equally around all perimeter, after lots of soaking in GT50. When the nylon gear is away from the 2 square locating points, rotate the gear by 180 deg, push the mylon gear back down in the new position and the park position changed to the other side. Photos show original setting, separation, turned and repositioned
20190919_155442.jpg
original setting
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20190919_160343.jpg
separation
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20190919_161013.jpg
turned
20190919_161013.jpg (106.53 KiB) Viewed 592 times
20190919_161105.jpg
repositioned
20190919_161105.jpg (129.73 KiB) Viewed 592 times



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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Sat Oct 26, 2019 10:31 pm

What is GT50??


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Post by philhoward » Sun Oct 27, 2019 2:22 am

Dennis Nicholas wrote:
Sat Oct 26, 2019 10:31 pm
What is GT50??
I’m going to go out on a limb and say it’s a typo and should be GT85 - the PTFE loaded Maintenance spray?


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Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Oct 27, 2019 11:34 am

GT85 with 40% off? :wink:


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Post by scimrick » Sun Oct 27, 2019 5:33 pm

Nice One Roger, must be about the amount left in that can! Phil H got it right, my fingers tryped up it wrong.
The gearwheel was also gently persuaded loose by tappting gently on the end of the shaft, the scraper spread the leverage easier.
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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Sun Oct 27, 2019 8:23 pm

Can anyone give me a detailed instruction as to how you get the park switch off the 14W motor?
The 16W is easy with the 2 holding on screws. In the 14W box I can see what looks like a spring clip on the inside just next to the worm wheel of the motor.....so where do you leaver to get the switch off the motor body?
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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue Oct 29, 2019 12:24 pm

I have, printed out, a technical article from SVC written by Tony Stafford from the days he ran the business. It includes a series of simple tests done using a test plug plugged into the parking switch in place of the car loom plug. Very quick and very simple fault finding. I wanted one of those test plugs/and leads but one of the companies that used to sell them has no longer any stock (can't remember which company). Nearest possibility seemed to be to make one up from a plug and bits of wire......SVC do a "wiper motor connector kit" which is just the plug and a set of the 5 inserts that the wires connect to........£11.34 by the time VAT and postage added.
Looked around and found on ebay "Classic Mini Wiper Motor Connector Repair Loom Harness" £6.49 and free postage. This is the plug with wires already connected and it fits both the 16W and 14W parking switch....so a ready made test plug. :D
I got it from sun_motorcycles on ebay item 201602045996. They are at 14 Fairlands Park, Coventry, West Midlands CV47DS (looks like a residential housing estate) There may be other sources of these out there if he sells out. Now awaiting delivery so I can test my replacement 14W motor before fitting to car.

14W and 16W DO NOT STAND FOR 14/16 watts!!!!!!! as I first thought. The typical operating current according to the SE6 workshop manual is 3.5 amps which is 12V X 3.5 Amps = 42 Watts. (14W model)

URGENT. DO CHECK YOUR WHEEL BOXES FOR FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT BEFORE YOU BURN OUT YOUR MOTOR :shock: :shock: :cry:

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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Mon Nov 04, 2019 11:45 am

Wipers and washers fuse 35A!
Just got to thinking ...since the GTC does not have a rear wiper just screen wiper and washer might this not be a bit excessive? SE6/6a workshop manual (14W motor) says motor current 3.5A (presumably on fast) and SVC tech article says 2 to 4 Amps (look for trouble if more than 4A).
I just wonder if my motor would have been saved with a lower rated fuse? 15Amp? Does anyone know the current taken by the GTC washer motor? My electrics disconnected at moment so can't measure).
Checked my fuse-holder and looked good with no signs of heating and wires also no signs of heat discolouring.....phew :D

I suspect the burn out of brush plate and heating of windings was a combination of worn brushes causing sparking and thus heat, and the partially seized wheel-boxes causing higher current and even worse sparking.

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Post by philhoward » Mon Nov 04, 2019 11:48 am

Don’t forget glass fuses are rated at blow current - they’re rated at 17A run/35A blow.

Washer pump is probably an Amp or so.


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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Mon Nov 04, 2019 11:05 pm

Yes precisely......so the 35 amp will still happily pass 25.9 amps continuously and....what.....40 to 50 amp before blowing (not forgetting the time factor...higher amps quicker blow at a constant value. So 35 amp not good for the wiring/motor protection in our case..
I just wonder if a 10 amp fuse (that would blow at a constant current flow of maybe 15 to 20 amps in a few seconds or tenths of a second would be far safer. Since fuse size is, I believe, chosen as known constant current times 135 percent then say 8 amp constant (to slightly overestimate) will require a fuse 8 X 1.35 = 10.8 amps. Say 10 amps which will cary a constant current of 7.5 amps......still more than wiper and quick squirt of washer.

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Post by scimjim » Mon Nov 04, 2019 11:31 pm

What kind of amps will a nackered wiper motor pull at start up against partially seized spindles?


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