1987 SS1 Ti Ride height adjustments

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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by CNHSS1 » Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:56 pm

not all Tis came from the factory with spoilers, dont know why, i guess though ive always assumed they were std equipment you could request them not fitted?


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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by reliant-reviver » Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:14 am

You learn something new everyday!
I'm starting to appreciate the clean spoiler less look these days.


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'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti (update and further questions)

Post by swoakes » Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:55 pm

I spent the day on the SS1 today. Thought I would make a start on those tricky headlights. I manually wound up and down the n/s light a number of times; still didn't work. So I set to work checking, cleaning and replacing the connections at the relay on the n/s. Still didn't work. So I swapped the relay over from the O/s headlamp. The n/s now bobbed up and down continuously. Fitted to relay from the n/s to the o/s and the light did not raise. So figured that the relay was at fault. Amazingly managed to purchase one in town. Fitted it and hey presto both headlamps raise and lower. The o/s still has an intermittent wiring fault that sorts itself out if you pull and mess with the wiring; this also causes the n/s to bob up and down. Also sometimes the n/s light does not park upright; but it normally manages it second time. I think that this will be down to dirty limit switch contacts in the motors?

Further questions

The boot does not latch shut. I have the key which turns in the lock and in both positions I cannot get the hook of the lock to click accross to hook on the bar (does that make sense?) Problem is I don't want to slam the boot down and risk not being able to open it again. Which way do you turn the key to lock/ unlock?
Also pressing the knob on the outside does not seem to do anything to the hook of the lock but it must have to be connected. Not taken the lock apart yet. Any help appretiated.

Also one of the hydraulic stays on the boot has pulled through the bodywork. You can,t get at the back of it to refit; do you have to loosen/ remove the rear wing?

Thanks

Steve


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SS1 DET Sprint Car

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SS1 DET Turbo sprint Project
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1985 SS1 1600
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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by scimjim » Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:26 pm

for the boot latch, the bit mounted on the body has oversize holes - loosen the 3 x 10mm bolts and move it upwards slightly. with the boot open, if pushing the button doesn't open the latch (in one key position), you need to remove the complete latch and investigate (the actuating arm could be bent or worn).

the nut for the lower boot damper attachments should be captive (welded into the rear armature) - you'll need to remove the wing to fix it properly - or loosen it and get a set of mole grips or similar onto it as a quick fix.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by swoakes » Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:01 pm

Hi Jim,

I don't seem to be able to get the hook to stay in the locked position with the boot open; I have tried pushing it with the end of a screwdriver. What about removing the latch and seeing if I can push it into the hook :?: That way at least I will be able to maintain access to the boot if I am unable to disengage the latch from the lock.

I'll check out the boot strut captive nut; the "bolt" is on the end of the strut. I have feeling that the captive nut has come off and I now just have a hole. In this case cannot see how to do it other than loosen rear wing :?:

Steve


Steve Oakes
SS1 DET Sprint Car

Former cars
SS1 DET Turbo sprint Project
Sabre Ti
SS1 Ti
1971 Yellow 5a
1985 SS1 1600
1978 Green/Silver 6a

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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by scimjim » Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:48 pm

swoakes wrote:I don't seem to be able to get the hook to stay in the locked position with the boot open; I have tried pushing it with the end of a screwdriver. What about removing the latch and seeing if I can push it into the hook :?: That way at least I will be able to maintain access to the boot if I am unable to disengage the latch from the lock.

sounds like the lever has siezed in the open position - remove latch assembly and investigate.
swoakes wrote:I'll check out the boot strut captive nut; the "bolt" is on the end of the strut. I have feeling that the captive nut has come off and I now just have a hole. In this case cannot see how to do it other than loosen rear wing :?:
if it's totally detached (I assumed it was just loose) and there's no thread visible through the hole - the captive nut isn't :D


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by CNHSS1 » Sat Jan 15, 2011 10:11 am

i wouldnt remove the rear wing as it will disturb the cars legendary panel shuts ( :shock: ) and to be honest will cause you more grief than you need. id remove the boot floor tub and do the repair from inside the boot.
usually a bolt/self tapper through each corner of the boot floor into the inner wheel arches and then the numerous screws though the upper edges of the boot liner.
you will have to remove the boot lock latch plate too to remove, but this method kills two birds with one stone, as without the floor in you can happily slam the bootlid shut and piddle about adjusting the lock mech from the inside of the boot area. make sure when doing your adjustments, you take into account the thickness of the boot liner that would normally be between the armature and the striker plate


Racing is life, everything before and after, is just waiting--Steve McQueen
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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by scimjim » Sat Jan 15, 2011 11:20 am

while the boot liner's out you can also check the hidden fuel pipes inc breather system and diff mounts.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by Mike R » Sun Jan 16, 2011 5:28 pm

hi
mine is a ss1 1600 . i have a MR2 (Mk1) spoiler fitted om mine . i didnt change anything on mine
i hope this helps

mike
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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by swoakes » Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:03 pm

Hi Mike, Thanks for the picture. It looks good; I will keep a lookout for one. Cheers Steve


Steve Oakes
SS1 DET Sprint Car

Former cars
SS1 DET Turbo sprint Project
Sabre Ti
SS1 Ti
1971 Yellow 5a
1985 SS1 1600
1978 Green/Silver 6a

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"Fail to prepare and you are preparing to fail."
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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti update

Post by swoakes » Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:43 pm

A bit on an update.

The headlights are now fully working after checking, cleaning and replacing the connections at the relays. :D

The boot lock does not work. I took the striker off and offered into the "hook" of the lock and it does not click into position. Also the button when pressed does not seem connected to the hook mechanism to enable the striker to be released. I then tried to remove the lock; 2 of the bolts just turn so I guess the captive nut inside the boot must be turning. The captives are totally hidden so intend to cut the heads of the bolts off to allow removal of lock and I will have to cut an access panel in the underside of the boot to allow refitting :cry: UNLESS anyone has another idea of how it can be done. :?: :?: :?:

I took the drivers door card off to check the quarterlights; they are totally rotten so will need replacing. Question can I remove the door lift mechanism and motor with the glass out of the top of the door with the window in the UP position :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: . The motor is dead so cannot lower to remove.

I have started to tidy the engine bay by removing the millions of cables for an old alarm system and some old air horns.

The soft top needs repairing in a few places; took it to a guy today and he reckons £50 should sort it. I'm going to give the vinyl and windows a good clean before I decide whether to have it repaired or seek out a replacement.

I have updated my parts wanted list in the wanted section.

Steve


Steve Oakes
SS1 DET Sprint Car

Former cars
SS1 DET Turbo sprint Project
Sabre Ti
SS1 Ti
1971 Yellow 5a
1985 SS1 1600
1978 Green/Silver 6a

Image
"Fail to prepare and you are preparing to fail."
Benjamin Franklin

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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by reliant-reviver » Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:25 pm

Just a quick note, you have locked and unlocked the bootlock yes? The button can still be depressed when locked, it is a simple tongue that swivels out of contact with the mechanism when locked.
If you do grind the heads off the bolts, it's only a captive plate, so should be able to replace it, no need to chop the boot about.

Electric window motors and actucators are a bugger to remove, but IIRC will come out in the "up" position.


Philip Andrew.
'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
Previous: I lost count around fifty.

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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by swoakes » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:08 pm

Hi Phil,

I have tried pressing the button with the lock locked and unlocked. There is no obvious difference in either position as regards what happens when the button is pressed; in fact nothing at all seems to happen as regards movement of the hook. I suspect that the end of the hook might be missing hence why the boot will not latch shut. So I will be able to pull the plate out of the hole created when the lock is removed by grinding the heads off? Thanks Steve


Steve Oakes
SS1 DET Sprint Car

Former cars
SS1 DET Turbo sprint Project
Sabre Ti
SS1 Ti
1971 Yellow 5a
1985 SS1 1600
1978 Green/Silver 6a

Image
"Fail to prepare and you are preparing to fail."
Benjamin Franklin

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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by swoakes » Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:26 pm

Made some good progress today.

I removed the boot lock by grinding the heads off the bolts. the rear plate has totally gone leaving just the nuts!. Only problem was some hot metal landed on the rear bumper :oops: and left a burn mark. My fault but very annoying :evil: The lock was seized and full of crap so freed it off and hey presto it now works. I just need to refit; the rear bolt is still OK. I was thinking of using some of the captive fixings and screws as suggested for wing mirrors on fibreglass instead of making a quite complicated plate. What are they called :?: :?: and will it work :?: :?:

Next I moved onto the hydraulic stay. Decided to make a metal plate and fix with self tappers over the hole in the boot liner. To this I have fitted the ball joint of the stay. Its quite a neat temporary fix and if it lasts it may turn into a permanent one :wink:

I gave the car its first wash today and started to T cut the panels. The paintwork is not too bad; some micro blistering in places and a few knocks and scratches but nothing too serious. I think it will clean up well.

Steve


Steve Oakes
SS1 DET Sprint Car

Former cars
SS1 DET Turbo sprint Project
Sabre Ti
SS1 Ti
1971 Yellow 5a
1985 SS1 1600
1978 Green/Silver 6a

Image
"Fail to prepare and you are preparing to fail."
Benjamin Franklin

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Re: 1987 SS1 Ti

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:21 pm

swoakes wrote:Next I moved onto the hydraulic stay. Decided to make a metal plate and fix with self tappers over the hole in the boot liner. To this I have fitted the ball joint of the stay. Its quite a neat temporary fix and if it lasts it may turn into a permanent one :wink:
I'd be quite surprised if it resists the stresses and strains for long without pulling out of the bootliner. Did you actually check on the armature behind the hole that the captive nut is actually missing?

Well done on getting the headlights sorted. :D

...Roger


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