Rat Rod (progress)

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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Rat Rod (dizzy drama)

Post by Coupe Racing » Wed May 16, 2018 5:17 pm

you can take the base plate out and put a standard one in with some points


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Rat Rod (dizzy drama)

Post by Gillsfan » Wed May 16, 2018 5:22 pm

Geoff I used the white stuff as per the instructions. I followed the instructions to the letter. I've just been watching the video on YouTube produced by auto spark them selves and it's exactly what I did.

I swapped the dizzys back earlier, I may do as suggested and put points in the new dizzy, the plan has always been to replace the dizzy as there is to much wear in it.


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Rat Rod (dizzy drama)

Post by Gillsfan » Wed May 16, 2018 8:30 pm

I found a YouTube video of a bench test for the electronic ignition, mine definitely buggered :evil:


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Rat Rod (dizzy drama)

Post by Gillsfan » Thu Jun 07, 2018 4:50 pm

So she runs :D after fitting and bench testing a new electronic ignition, I fitted the dizzy after an impressive backfire I realised that I had it 180 degrees out. After correcting it she only fired and ran :mrgreen:

I set the timing to 14 DBTC, well I think I have. It appears I had a rush of blood to the head and bought a fancy timing light which has I dial on it. See below.
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I set the dial to zero and set the timing as described in.tne good book.
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Now the question is have I done it right?

Other than that it all went well, the tacho and temp gauge that initial didn't work were only loose wires. The electric fan kicked in when it should and kept the temp at a steady 90. She only idles at 500 but I'm reluctant to fiddle with the carb until I've refreshed my memory.


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Rat Rod (engine runs)

Post by scimjim » Thu Jun 07, 2018 5:35 pm

Excellent :-)


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Rat Rod (engine runs)

Post by philynnbob » Thu Jun 07, 2018 5:48 pm

Great news,nothing like an engine running to spur you on. Have same timing light,I also set at zero and use known timing marks. I figure you would use the graduation on dial if your engine only had TDC mark?



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Rat Rod (engine runs)

Post by Gillsfan » Thu Jun 07, 2018 8:34 pm

That's what I figured :D

I'm happy the dizzy is done, I've never done one and for no good reason I was nervous about it incase I couldn't get it started.

New cooling hoses arrived at work today, in my absence. So those to fit and wiring various to sort and the engine bay will be done. Then I've just got a fibreglass repair on the front valance, fit new bushes to the front suspension, manufacture and fit a runner for the passenger seat, rebuild the interior, fit and wire electric boot release, finish painting the wheel arches and refit badges. Should keep me out of trouble for a while.


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Rat Rod (progress)

Post by Gillsfan » Sat Jun 23, 2018 6:11 pm

Today's progress/questions

First the progress. I've changed all the old rubber hoses for new silicone (except the one to the pump as I ordered the wrong one) and fitted stainless pipes. Judging by the state of the old stuff it was about time to do it.
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New stuff in
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I also had a look at the lights, after a bit of fiddling I got all the lights expect reverse working :mrgreen:

Now the questions

1. which fuses should have power when?

2. Which fuses are for what ?

I found a post listing the following.
scimjim wrote:
Fri May 02, 2014 5:27 pm
not sure if this is stickied or not but I will copy it here again:

From the top:

Overdrive - 10A

Side, panel & number plate lights - 10A

Heater motors, wipers/washers, reverse lights, fuel & temp gauges, indicators & brake lights - 50A

Horns, HRW, headlamp flash, bonnet light, cigar lighter & clock - 50A

The lower carrier fuses are arranged:

Main beam warning light & outer main beams - 50A

Inner main beams - 50A

LH outer dip - 25A

RH outer dip - 25A

the 25A & 50A fuses seem excessive to me on the headlights - the top two presume that everything is turned on at once, so won't protect much in isolation IMO.
But that doesn't seem to match mine see below
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I haven't checked all of them yet but certainly the top fuse is wired for the reverse lights, the fuse does have power in any ignition switch position, which is why my lights aren't working.


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Rat Rod (progress)

Post by Gillsfan » Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:42 pm

Sanity and reverse lights have returned to Somerset. The top fuse is supplied from the ignition switch when in the on position but not in the accessory position. Additional it doesn't work with a loose/dirty connection at the ignition switch. :w


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Rat Rod (progress)

Post by scimjim » Sat Jun 23, 2018 9:27 pm

Yellow/brown is definitely overdrive shipmate - you need to sort those fuses as some of them are way too high for the system they’re supposed to be protecting!

looking good though, are you going to make Curbs?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Rat Rod (progress)

Post by Gillsfan » Sun Jun 24, 2018 12:33 pm

I'm not disagreeing about the overdrive wire, but I think there maybe another wiring oddity in rat rod. Let me explain what I did this morning....

The white/Brown (possibly yellow/brown) wire connected to the top fuse ends up in the vicinity of the switch on top of the gearbox. I'd consulted the wiring diagram and as Jim points out the overdrive wire is yellow/brown from the fuse to the dash mounted switch, it's yellow/purple from the dash to the gearbox switch. On inspection there was both coloured wires connected to the dash switch, I tested and there is power to the switch with ignition on. I also check that the yellow/brown was connected to the yellow/brown from the top fuse, which it is. So I have the correct wiring for the overdrive with and additional yellow/brown, but I can't find the green wire that according to the wiring diagram should supply the reverse lights. :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:

On other new it appears that Jim and I have a case of great minds think alike, I've seen in your 8 ball thread the black badges, well I've been doing this .......
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Rat Rod (progress)

Post by Gillsfan » Fri Aug 31, 2018 2:27 pm

Another small step forward. After some bush confusion, I've fitted poly bushes and lowering spacers to the front passenger side. I'll need to turn the car around to do the drivers side. While I had stuff apart I've painted including the shock.
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Rat Rod (progress)

Post by MikeyBikey » Sun Sep 02, 2018 7:43 pm

looking good


Is we sideways yet...

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Rat Rod (progress)

Post by scimmy ben » Mon Sep 03, 2018 3:42 am

Gillsfan wrote:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 12:33 pm
I

On other new it appears that Jim and I have a case of great minds think alike, I've seen in your 8 ball thread the black badges, well I've been doing this .......
20180624_111938.jpg
I don't come into Big Scimitar land very often, so excuse what may be a daft question...

Are those "i"s upside down? They look lower than the other letters, do they have locating pins such that they could be flipped over?



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Rat Rod (progress)

Post by Gillsfan » Mon Sep 03, 2018 9:16 am

Yep it's upside down and the pins are such that's it's possible to have it so. The photo was just a mock up, it's now the the right way up :mrgreen:


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