Roger's Scimitars - Exciting News

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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by MikeT » Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:03 am

Well done on the MOT Roger. Looked good at the show :)

Mike.


1978 Scimitar SE6a - Project thread

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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon May 28, 2012 3:03 pm

I've already mentioned in the Billing thread ( here ) that I encountered a problem with the mulberry car whereby there was an unpleasant knock from the steering, which resulted in me going in the Yellow Peril. The problem appears to be play in both steering column bushes, particularly the lower one. Wiggling the end of the column in the engine compartment does produce a very pronounced knock in the column, and the up-and-down play can be felt.

So, looks like new bushes required. The manual starts with the instruction "for access the instrument panel must be removed" and includes instructions on disconnecting the speedo cable, heater vent etc., to enable this. I thought, there must be a better way, and in line with my philosophy of not making a drama out of a crisis, and turning everything into a full rebuild, I decided that the reason for this is that the upper steering column shroud is in the way of the column and multiswitch. However the shroud is only riveted onto the instrument panel, so I decided that what man riveted together, man can put asunder! So I drilled out the rivets. Not quite as simple as it sounds, the outer two were easy, then I found there was an inner one which was hidden behind the column, so that needed it's head tickling with the Dremel in order to remove it. The shroud could then be removed (it'll be replaced with self-tappers to make life easier in future):

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This left the steering column, multiswitch, etc. fully exposed:

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One thing that now became obvious is that the switch attachment ring is broken (as is so often the case) so I think it'll need the same kind of repair as I did on the SS1:

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I loosened the steering wheel nut, but the wheel refused to shift, so I had to resort to a puller, this moved it quite easily:

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The reason for it's reluctance became clear - the splines were quite rusty, I suspect it had been assembled dry back at the factory (and this may well be the first time it's been off - I can't remember removing it before):

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With the wheel out of the way, the top bush (the one that seemed to have the least play!) was clearly visible, and you can see a gap due to wear at the top:

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To be continued...........


....Roger

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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Gemini Bob » Mon May 28, 2012 3:45 pm

Yuk that top bearing looks horrible Roger, it looks like the Dremel will be getting some more work to do :)


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Taggers » Mon May 28, 2012 4:34 pm

Put the steering wheel back on, finger tight, undo the top UJ. Put the key in to take the lock off.

Put the wheel towards you and the steering lock will knock the bearing out. Do not knock your teeth out.

Take the wheel off, turn the column round and drop it back down the hole. It will knock the bottom bearing out.

New bearings are about a fiver from the usual suspects. Might be worth marking everything up, but I didn't bother.

Chris


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon May 28, 2012 7:25 pm

Taggers wrote:Put the steering wheel back on, finger tight, undo the top UJ. Put the key in to take the lock off.

Put the wheel towards you and the steering lock will knock the bearing out. Do not knock your teeth out.

Take the wheel off, turn the column round and drop it back down the hole. It will knock the bottom bearing out.

New bearings are about a fiver from the usual suspects. Might be worth marking everything up, but I didn't bother.

Chris
Yes that's it in a nutshell - just got in from doing exactly that, this afternoon. Only thing that was a little awkward was that after 33 years the column was a bit attached to the top u/j and needed a number of very firm jolts to release it. More photos to follow when I've sorted them out and had another mug of tea! :D


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon May 28, 2012 8:40 pm

Right, here we are, some photos:

First undo the upper column joint: (I was surprised how tight it was, although I'd left it soaking in plus gas overnight)

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Then extract the column by pulling upwards, firstly to extract it from the splines on the joint (as mentioned earlier, that took a bit of persuasion) then a further pull up causes the collar for the steering lock to pop out the upper bush (note keys in lock to release the mechanism). The old bush can be seen around the column here:

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Then turn the column round, and feed it through the other way, the weight of the column combined with the steering lock collar will pop the bottom bush out, seen here:

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Next step some cleaning up and regreasing, fitting of new bushes, and reassembly, though I'll need to do some work on the indicator stalk clamp.


....Roger

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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Taggers » Mon May 28, 2012 8:48 pm

And you need to drag the outer tube up into the car a bit to fit the new lower one


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon May 28, 2012 8:49 pm

Or use a suitable diameter short drift?


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by nickkeyser » Mon May 28, 2012 10:38 pm

Should the bushes be assembled dry or with grease? They look like a nylon type plastic?

On the kitten, it was bone dry when I dismantled it, so that's how it went back together. The ss1 had some kind of thick build up, but was still dry. I assumed it wasn't meant to be there adn cleaned it off but haven't re-assembled it yet. Both use a bush with the same appearance to the 6 series on you have posted.


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon May 28, 2012 10:55 pm

I stand to be corrected, but AFAIK the SS1 and the Se6a ones are identical? They certainly look the same. I changed the SS1 ones a year or two ago (it's back in the early part of this thread I think) and I decided that I didn't think it would do any harm to lubricate them, so I assembled the column with a smear of grease (Molyslip HSB) on the bushes. The manual actually describes them as "Oil-impregnated acetal,..........no maintenance is normally required" I must admit they don't feel very oily to me, they just feel like plastic, so I thought a bit extra would be no bad thing?


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by scimjim » Mon May 28, 2012 11:09 pm

I had to look up what acetal was:

Acetals are used as protecting groups for carbonyl groups in organic synthesis as they are stable with respect to hydrolysis by bases and with respect to many oxidizing and reducing agents.

So it's no wonder they make such good steering column bushes :mrgreen:


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue May 29, 2012 12:08 am

So, to stop beating around the bush ( :roll: ), a smear of grease is ok? :wink:


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by tony.idle » Tue May 29, 2012 12:25 am

If you wish to preserve your new joints it's possible to fit a rack boot over each one. For the upper find or make a collar to enlarge the column where it protrudes through the bulkhead. Fit the large end of a gaiter over it & clip it on. Leave the small end unclipped so the UJ shaft will rotate within it. The lower one can be simple covered with a gaiter with the small end uppermost & the large end fed into the hole in the suspension turret. Cover both joints in grease before final assembly. I did it with the GTC & the lower column bush & joints were still OK after 10 or more Cumbrian winters & daily use throughout that time.


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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue May 29, 2012 11:10 pm

Thanks for the suggestion, Tony. To clarify, I'm not actually changing the column joints; they seem to be fine, nice and free, but without excess play. I supect the fact that I spray them periodically with Duckhams penetrating motocycle chain spray (which includes moly), may have helped. Your idea of the boots sounds worth investigation though.

Incidentally, I drilled out the two outer pop-rivets that I mentioned earlier, using my "Tony Idle Battery Drill" :D . Following your suggestion in a thread last year, I took my old Black & Decker cordless drill (that had years ago stopped holding a charge) and cut open the battery unit, took out the batteries and attached a wire to the battery terminals. I then used a block of wood inside the battery unit to support the battery terminals and hold the battery unit together, then took the lead out through a grommeted hole and finished it off with two croc clips. It works well :D

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Not much news to report today on the mulberry car, I had to go out some of the time, I did do a bit of cleaning up, and also made a start on my repair to the indicator/wiper cluster. For the record, here's a nice clean inner column:

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I did find that there has been a "sting in the tail" from the Billing weekend for the Yellow Peril. I hadn't unpacked all my camping stuff from the boot, as there didn't seem to be any rush and it was safely tucked away in the garage. One of the things in there was a plastic crate with assorted bits - kettle, pans, cans of beans etc... One thing that I'd forgotten was that there were a couple of bottles of fresh orange, but the warmth of the last week seems to have caused them to ferment, with the result that they exploded, covering the underside of the load cover, the boot carpet, and some of the other boot contents with a sticky crust of fermented orange :shock: The smell is absolutely disgusting :( Yuck! How effectively it will clean off remains to be seen, for the moment all the affected bits are out of the car in the hope of dispersing the smell.........


....Roger

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Re: Roger's Scimitars - Running Report (?)

Post by Roger Pennington » Wed May 30, 2012 10:32 pm

Quite a productive afternoon - first I made my indicator cluster reinforcement:

Take a piece of perforated strip, cut of and shape the end to the profile of the column. Drill a hole to suit one of the indicator switch bolts (I didn't use one of the existing holes as they were too large):

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Bend the strip around behind the switch so that it ends up parallel to the outer column, use a jubilee clip to attach it to the column:

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That then holds the switch as solid as a rock. :D

Next we move to installing the new bushes. I pressed them in with a handy drift - actually the handle of an oil seal insertion too. Here it is ready (apart from a smear of moly grease) to insert the lower bush:

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Then insert the column (from the interior end) and feed it through into the engine compartment (note keys need to be in the ignitionto disengage the lock for this and the next step) far enough to leave space to insert the upper bush, using the same drift:

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Feed the column back again so that it comes back into the car. New bush a nice snug fit :D :

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Refit the (now solidly repaired) indicator stalks:

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and reconnect the steering joint (not yet in it's final position when the photo was taken):

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(note that I marked the splines so that it should have gone back in the correct alignment).

That just leaves the steering wheel and column shroud to be refitted, and a final check of the bolt tightness, and test.


....Roger

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