Mikey Bikey's Scimega

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Post by MikeyBikey » Sat Jun 01, 2019 7:05 pm

So this was up to a couple of days ago.

Chassis cleaned, wire brushed and painted with Corroless, Dinitrol 447 top coat , hand painted, although covered in dust.
Engine bay lower fibreglass also painted with Dinitrol 447.
Engine bay upper. Concrete paint as before. The local boat yard suppliers recommended flo-coat but on the vertical faces you'd need the thick stuff that unfortunately shows the brush or roller marks so I didn't bother and re-used the concrete paint. I've discovered it's the water based variety so of course its rubbish. I wish I'd done it in Satin wood or something else oil based.

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Post by AJL Electronics » Sat Jun 01, 2019 8:44 pm

Mikey, the words that you need to use are 'Epoxy primer'. It is designed for the job, sticks like the proverbial, waterproof and inert as well as being very flexible. Ideal for chassis or bodywork use, it's what Speedy and I both use extensively. You can brush it or spray it, although for spraying you should use Lechelr rather than the thicker Jotun. You can also leave it as the topcoat in areas not exposed to the sun when it will eventually go chalky.


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Post by AJL Electronics » Sat Jun 01, 2019 8:44 pm

Oh and it can be ordered in or tinted to any colour you choose.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Sun Jun 02, 2019 4:58 pm

So more activity.
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However I never fail to amaze myself- simply underestimating how long stuff takes. So I blazenly cut bits off, decide to reroute stuff, undo work I've done previously etc etc and then when going to re-assemble or re-fabricate it takes forever. So instead of actually driving the car I am in the garage drilling and tapping bits of metal. There is some enjoyment, but I'm very aware the summer is here and before I know it it will be gawn...


And a question. Thank you for the advice andy. However what best to do with these aluminium engine mounts to prep for spraying black. They are oxidised aluminium. I've started to clean one with a wheel buts it :?
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Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Jun 02, 2019 5:04 pm

I refer the honourable Scimitarist to my previous reply!

Epoxy primer is something of a revolutionary product. I supercedes etch primers and special preparations for difficult substrates like aluminium and fibreglass.

I use Lechler 29107 exclusively as it is difficult to spray the Jotun, that is better brushed or rollered. Have a look at the TDS and make up your own mind. It is also iso free.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Sun Jun 02, 2019 5:14 pm

Cheers.

Do I need to get rid of the oxidisation with a wheel? It is solid oxidisation, not powdery.

and what is TDS ?


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Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Jun 02, 2019 5:40 pm

You should be OK with solid. If you break through it, it will oxidise again before you get paint on it.

Technical Data Sheet.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Sat Jun 08, 2019 6:33 pm

ok so engine build up is coming along

I've painted the block and plenum high temp enamel silver paint. Came up great
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I had hoped to put engine and box back in but I'm in a dilemma. Despite the earlier discussion to buy the TTV flywheel, spending the best part of £400 is a bit of a budget pressure as I still have to buy the prop, mot and insure. So I was going to use the existing dual mass / clutch for a while .

However both clutch plates are worn.
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But there maybe an answer. Has anyone experience of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Vec ... Swf2pctbbF


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Post by efi_sprintgte » Sun Jun 09, 2019 6:48 am

All I can say is I did a lot of research on solid flywheel conversions on my Beamer, all of the research suggested the car would’ve been a lot harsher and less tractable. I have no personal experience to back this up. It does make sense however.

That being said, the 5a is light and you like to destroy your clutches and gearboxes so maybe it is worth looking at?


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Post by MikeyBikey » Sun Jun 09, 2019 9:27 am

har har
efi_sprintgte wrote:
Sun Jun 09, 2019 6:48 am

That being said, the 5a is light and you like to destroy your clutches and gearboxes so maybe it is worth looking at?
Yes, maybe an automatic is the answer although not sure how that would work at curbs......

:? :?


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Post by MikeyBikey » Fri Jun 14, 2019 7:21 pm

A lesson in Vauxhall gearboxes and clutches.

Blimey- I've spent a lot of time researching an alternative to the DMF thats currently blighting the install and the fact that I only have a R28 gearbox...

I've joined vauxhall forums, talked to lots of suppliers, tried to avoid the pitfalls of buying stuff only to regret because it doesn't fit or its crap (came close :( ). but I think i have a way through.

The existing DMF & clutch is an incredible 16 kg. I put my back out lifting it.

DMF = dual mass flywheel
SMF = single mass flywheel - keep up please

DMF was developed because modern diesels are so powerful they have a 'pulse' that destroys gearboxes, so the existing sprung clutch plate wasn't enough. But even so DMF's fail on a regular basis and are expensive so manufacturers have developed a SMF conversion for lots of vauxhall cars and owners take the risk of destroying their gearbox instead.

However Vauxhall decided to fit the DMF to the Y32Se to make it a comfy cruiser, taking any vibration in return for fast but not rapid spin up. But no one makes a SMF conversion for the omega version but they do for the vectra version but there is variances in crank bolts qty (10 vectra v 8 omega) . So it wont fit. You can get a couple of racing companies who make sexy billet versions but they've quoted over £400 and 4-6 weeks lead time. And there is uncertainty whether it will work with the rear wheel drive gearbox R28 and they are really designed for the front wheel drive vectra 3.2 with the F28 gearbox that is a shallower bellhousing

Pay attention at the back please

Soooo I started looking at 8 hole solid flywheels and it transpires there is only 2 really.

C20XE
C20LET

Both are pretty legendary and used in RWD conventions but originate from FWD 4 pot cavalier 2.0i and calibra turbo etc etc.

But there are two types of flywheel. POT or flat. POT is heavier but was used in the later run. Both have a similar 228mm clutch plate but very different pressure plates. One is high profile , one is low, but not interchangeable. Also the clutch plate for these has 24 teeth whilst for the R28 gear box its 14.

Flat flywheels are rare.

and there are several clutch diameters 240, 228 and 215mm

So its been a mare but i might have an answer,

I bought a c20xe flat flywheel. 5kg
Precision clutches in Somerset (thanks James) is making me a 228mm performance clutch plate but with the later 14 teeth vauxhall set up.
A company in exeter has a nos LUK c20xe flat flywheel pressure plate
I have a 19mm spacer to bring forward the Concentric slave cylinder to the correct distance away from the pressure plate.


Course,I could have simply stuck with the DMF.....
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Post by MikeyBikey » Fri Jun 14, 2019 7:52 pm

oh and another thing. The R28 gearbox is the same internals as the fabled R30 only the R30 has shot peened gears (what on earth does that mean) . And it doesn't matter as R28 is strong and used for drifting and not generally known for failing unless you get close to 500 torques


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Post by Old and Slow » Fri Jun 14, 2019 8:24 pm

Shot peening is a process of "firing" hardened pellets at the gears to work-harden the surface. Lowers wear rates by making the surface more brittle whilst maintaining the toughness of the bulk of the metal.


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Post by efi_sprintgte » Fri Jun 14, 2019 8:25 pm

I know what I would have done :D


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Post by MikeyBikey » Fri Jun 14, 2019 8:36 pm

efi_sprintgte wrote:
Fri Jun 14, 2019 8:25 pm
I know what I would have done :D
James, it’s all your fault by recommending precision clutches and offering me a soln re rx8... :) :)


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