Mikey Bikey's Scimega

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MikeyBikey
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Mikey Bikey's Scimega

Post by MikeyBikey » Wed Sep 12, 2018 1:29 pm

OK . This
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plus
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will be this :hurrah:

hopefully

Engine - Y32SE GM Omega 3.2 narrow V6. Lush.
1) Drive Belt Kit - Correct set has purchased and fitted, along with new water pump.
2) Sump - Vectra Sump with oil pick up pipe and dipstick purchased.
3) Mountings - GM Oil filled Engine mountings plus two chassis mounts to be fabricated.

Electrikery
ECU required for sparks, lpg and efi injection.
Canems do a single ECU that will drive all three. All it needs is a MAP , Throttle position and Crank sensors
A Coil Bank has been sent to them to program with ecu.

Might keep water and oil level, oil pressure sensors. The engine has them. The Canems ecu can process them. Could have an alarm with flashing lights etc etc.
Or not bother :)

Exhaust;
Will be customer made open headers to mate onto existing 2" bore system.
1) Flanges - Bought new steel ones as templates to make up a complete open header system
2) Gaskets - Purchased

Gearbox
1) Gearbox - Standard R28 5 speed gearbox. This needs the breather pipe adapting to stop oil leaks under massive acceleration (apparently :help: )
2) Mountings - Standard GM mount plus fabricated chassis mount.
3) Clutch - I have the Existing dual mass flywheel, very heavy but its complete (Trying to see if Calibra flywheel will fit. I want (NEED ) 240 mm clutch plate not 230 aka 2.5 3.0 - No positive progress but have made inquiries)
4) Clutch Master / Slave Cylinders. Scimitar master, omega concentric slave. Custome pipe between the two.

Drive train.
1) Prop - I have an se5 automatic prop I intend to have altered.
2) I already have lsd fitted. At some point will be replaced with a quaiffe.

Ancillaries
1) Drive belt - Custom 43.5" and move the pulley.
2) Expansion Tank - standard se5
3) Radiator - standard se5
4) Alternator - New Lucas 75A with old school bracketry. (pully from omega fits perfectly)
5) Power Steering / air Conditioning - All removed. changed drive belt stuff to have a shorter belt
6) Strut brace = Early se5 straight . Purchased.

Fueling
1) As ECU has changed the requirements I will now have LPG and Petrol injection run from the same ecu.
2) Will have an in fuel tank pump, I think .

Braking
1) Discs - Already have full disc conversion.
2) Servo - Inline Servo purchased, need to fit

Spend to Date £1332
Spend remaining (Estimated) £697
Project total £2029

I've blown the budget so will be selling all the ford / essex stuff I have
Last edited by MikeyBikey on Tue Oct 02, 2018 10:09 pm, edited 5 times in total.


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Mikey Bikey's Scimega

Post by MikeyBikey » Wed Sep 12, 2018 1:44 pm

Strip Down.
Unbelievably easy to work on, albeit its still on the trailer :roll:
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Last edited by MikeyBikey on Wed Sep 12, 2018 1:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Wed Sep 12, 2018 1:48 pm

Waterworks
--------------

After a fir bit of thought and what'sapping with Lozz we've sorted the cooling.

The original, especially at the back, is quite confusing. Lots of oil , breather and water pipes.
Cooling 1.jpg
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So I'm consolidating down to these.

Back of engine outlet.
Cooling 4.jpg
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The LPG reducer and throttle body will take water from the here.

and a modified back of engine inlet taking water from the radiator and also the lpg reducer return supply.
Cooling 3.jpg
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From the front .


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Rad outlet and engine inlet is far left shiny pipe in photo. (Arrow 1)
Small Supply from rear, into throttle bodies from right, onto expansion tank. (arrows 2)
Black pipe on rhs to radiator as a thermostat controlled engine outlet. (arrow 3)

I will use standard SE5 radiator and expansion tank.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Wed Sep 12, 2018 2:15 pm

Drivebelt.

How can I get rid of the need for the power steering pump pulley. I don't want power steering. I don't want the pulley either. Its just dead weight . and it will foul the suspension tower.

It should be where the yellow x is ?
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Post by MikeyBikey » Wed Sep 12, 2018 8:20 pm

Bump - does anyone know any websites where you can type in a length and it gives you a suitable drivebelt.

Eg 728 mm and they say - fiesta power steering etc etc


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Post by efi_sprintgte » Wed Sep 12, 2018 8:36 pm

I modify the alternator so it can swing and tension the belt.

Most motor factors are happy to work off belt length. The original has the partial part number to denote correct rib profile and tooth count.


JC

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Post by MikeyBikey » Wed Sep 12, 2018 9:34 pm

Thanks.
Done a bit of head scratching and I have a solution. I'm ditching the power steering completely, mount, pump etc.

This pulley is going to move to the right.
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There is a decent aluminum casting with three spare bolt holes. I'll get a plate / spur made up to take the pulley. Mount it on the casting.
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THat way the water pump keeps its anticlockwise rotation


43.5" v belt is needed

from here £11 plus vat !!!!
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Belts ... index.html


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Post by philhoward » Wed Sep 12, 2018 10:00 pm

It’s a poly vee (ribbed) belt you need.

Where you’re thinking of mounting a pulley doesn’t give much on the water pump pulley - needs to really be over 90 (and closer to 135) degrees to make sure you’ve got enough friction as it’s also on the plain back of the belt.

Do you still have the aluminium casing the PAS pump was mounted on? Still trying to find the drawing of the spacer I had made for mine.


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Post by superleggo » Wed Sep 12, 2018 10:38 pm

I agree with Phil you need more wrap on the water pump. just remount a pulley where the power steering pump was.

I think I used a Renault pulley to get the height near the original design.



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Post by lozzzzzz » Mon Sep 17, 2018 3:29 pm

Too cool! This is my favorite bit! Dreaming up and thinking through solutions to problems.


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Post by scimjim » Mon Sep 17, 2018 4:37 pm

Could you fit a ribbed wheel to the water pump and just go straight round the outside? The pump wheel looks very similar in size to the Ti (ribbed) pulley - just 4 bolts instead of 3?
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Post by lozzzzzz » Mon Sep 17, 2018 4:52 pm

The water pump impellar suggests it should only spin in one direction, if the pulley was in contact with the ribs of the belt and not the back of the belt it would rotate the wrong way


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Post by philhoward » Mon Sep 17, 2018 5:21 pm

Been having a quick look through my thread and found half the answer:
philhoward wrote:
Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:33 pm
Forgot to detail one bit - following a little modification to the idler pulley stub, a new belt size has been worked out. Ideally it needs an 1825mm 6 rib belt but apparently that's not a normal size, so an 1835 it is.. Next one down is an 1818 and that wasn't having it, new and out of the packet.
That was with an 80mm diameter pulley. Still looking for the drawing I did for the mounting..


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Post by MikeyBikey » Mon Sep 17, 2018 7:51 pm

Thank you all. We obviously all have similar brain cell configuration.

Like wise I tried a ribbed pully - The power steering one I don't want!! It fits neatly onto the water pump, location wise, but it will drive the impeller clockwise, and i need it anti clockwise. So I took the spare new waterpump and tried to prise off the impleller to fit back to front but it wouldn't play. They're the pressed steel crappy type, not cast so just deform.

So I bought a modern mini pulley. It has a belt glued on. I thought belt to belt would give better traction being belt on belt . It fits perfectely


But then I thought...

Twit. Just move the pulley to the right even more and order a longer belt. So I have

Simply bearings is brilliant. 48" 6 rib v poly belt for £10 plus vat.
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Last edited by MikeyBikey on Mon Sep 17, 2018 8:34 pm, edited 4 times in total.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Mon Sep 17, 2018 8:01 pm

Exhausts and rabbit holes

I've been messed around. I was going to purchase Vectra steel ones as an interim. They can be cut and then welded to the existing exhaust, (aka Phil). In the long run I want open headers , lozz has made some for his, but it seemed like a useful way to keep things moving. However after waiting ages for the ebay car to be broken and after lots of dialogue turns out its one steel and one cast. Obviously the cast is no good.
Vectra Exhausts.jpg
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So in the meantime I've been hunting for open headers and i find this
I want it again.jpg
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Its a genuine item. Saab took this engine and put a turbo on the one bank. For the 9-5 3.0

So, totally inspired, I've taken off my exahust manifolds and reversed them. LHS to RHS and viceversa. That way they are facing forwards and Ive got the space.

Course it only bleddy works.

That means I'd have to have two....



And then Lozzz suggested I needed a better gearbox so that kinda squashed that idea.

In the meantime. Engine stripped. ECU on the way. Gearbox has to wait until end of next week before going to be checked over. Engine to engine builder next monday.

In the meantime Courtney do a nice line in new flywheels...
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If I wanted to the debit card could take a real hammering


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