Spegru SE6a

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Post by spegru » Thu May 02, 2019 8:38 am

If it ever had a plastic outer it's long gone. would have been a good idea



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Post by spegru » Thu May 02, 2019 8:55 am

Having dismantled the heater box for derusting painting and flushing of the matrix I find I m unsure how the operating levers go back on
I am talking about the two anodised/brassy looking machined things on the side of the box. They are different lengths and I do not know which is which!
The position of the up/down/off lever is particularly challenging.
Anyone got a picture of an un-molested SE6 heater box that shows these?



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Post by spegru » Thu May 02, 2019 12:43 pm

I re-found this thread https://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/vie ... hp?t=17413
which I think shows that the long lever is on the right and the short one is on the left



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Post by spegru » Tue May 07, 2019 8:38 pm

Can anyone confirm how the squashy dash 'crash pad' is fixed to the top of the dash top moulding? It appears to be glued on?



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Post by spegru » Sun Sep 29, 2019 9:23 pm

A bit of a faux pas this weekend when the wind took the drivers door and swung it open hard.
Since then the door edge catches the edge of the dorr opening as it opens, making a nasty creaking noise as one beit of fibreglass grates over another.
I've had a good look around and cant see any visible damage although the door seems slight;y sunken in the opening.
I suppose something has moved and can probably be adjusted - but does anyone have specific experience of this?



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Post by scimjim » Sun Sep 29, 2019 10:22 pm

Sounds like you’ve bent the hinge or the A post. Might be able to shim it if you don’t want to take the whole lot apart?


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Post by spegru » Mon Sep 30, 2019 8:00 pm

Yes that's what I thought. It can't have moved by much though, just a 2 or 3 mm I think
When you say shimming in order to avoid taking apart, is that shimming between door and hinge or between hinge and body or something else? I suppose it will be necessary to detach the hinge anyway

steve



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Post by scimjim » Mon Sep 30, 2019 8:22 pm

Door to hinge probably.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Oct 01, 2019 12:51 pm

I had exactly the same thing happen in my first year of owning the mulberry car. I was able to adjust the door back but I don't know if I was just lucky? - it may be it had only bent things enough to be still within the adjustment capabilities? It was a real pain though. Don't underestimate how heavy the door is, especially if you have electric windows and mirrors. I supported the door on a trolley jack (cushioned by a block of wood wrapped in carpet) then undid all the hinge bolts and moved the door up and down, in and out, forward and back, until it fitted again.

I don't remember using shims - but it was about 35 years ago, there's been a lot of water under the bridge in the intervening time!

Also, when I did mine, because the car was nearly new, the nuts/bolts all came undone - if they've not moved for the last 40 years, it may be a different story....


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