Spegru SE6a

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AJL Electronics
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Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Jun 04, 2018 1:05 pm

spegru wrote:
Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:36 am
I've seen quite a bit of talk about paint microblistering (presumably that is what my photo shows) in Reliants but never on any of the other fibreglass cars I've had. So is this something to do with being ~40yrs old, something specific to the paint Reliant used or perhaps poor prep at the factory?
A bit of all of that. The body was sprayed with a filler primer which absorbs moisture unless overcoated quickly. All cars that I have painted so far have shown that the damage is in that layer. The moisture expands with temperature increases, until eventually it bursts through the paint which likely hasn't been well maintained. That allows more moisture to pass into the primer filler layer, making the issue worse.

Current thinking for rectification is back to gel coat, then epoxy primer straight away. Repair and make good as required then finish off with a couple more coats of epoxy. Topcoat of your choice, the epoxy is inert and will not react with anything.


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Post by spegru » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:09 pm

Thanks. Going to gel sounds a good idea. Odd that it mainly seems to affect horizontal surfaces -but not the roof in my case
I also noticed that the paint flaked off in the channels around the bonnet pointing towards lack of surface prep and that the rear underside edge of the bonnet may never have had paint properly on it at all - hardest to reach with a spray gun
I was hoping for a good rub down and to spray with cellulose though



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Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Jun 04, 2018 5:37 pm

Acrylic / cellulose no problem over epoxy.


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Post by spegru » Wed Jun 06, 2018 10:01 am

I just tried to connect up my new clutch master cylinder but the thread for the union is different to the original. According to my order the new one is 7/16 UNF but the original Lockheed one is larger. Not too much of a problem to solve of course but the actual pipe to the slave cylinder is also larger, being a red plastic pipe (~8mm OD) most of the way with just a short bit of steel pipe {~6mm OD).
I have come across this before with hydraulic clutch pipes - the bigger pipe bore size (~4mm ID) is I think intended to give a larger flow rate for the fluid.
What's the best solution? a different master cylinder or finding suitable adaptors?



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Post by spegru » Sat Jun 09, 2018 12:51 pm

new hose from qrg



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Post by spegru » Sat Jun 09, 2018 12:52 pm

Help. Reconnecting my Essex and can't find the temperature sensor it must be there on the engine somewhere! Anyone got a photo?



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Post by rebel alliance » Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:04 pm

Just in front of the carb on the inlet manifold..



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Post by spegru » Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:20 pm

Yay thanks vmuch. I was looking on the side of the block



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Post by spegru » Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:40 pm

And now a new problem. The car was running this morning complete with new exhaust systems filled wil coolant. Lovely.
Now this afternoon it wont start at all due to lack of sparks. I cant work out why. It has an electronic distributor and Lucas Ignition amplifier - which could be original. It was also left with the ignition on for about an hour which may not have done the coil much good? However I do see a good spark off the king lead if I plug/unplug the ignition amplifier so that seems unlikely

Ideas?



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Post by rebel alliance » Sat Jun 09, 2018 8:44 pm

Take the king lead out again and hold the end 1/4 inch away from the alternator bracket then get someone to spin it over to see if you get any sparks then....don't get a shock 😊



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Post by scimjim » Sat Jun 09, 2018 8:46 pm

The quickest way to kill a coil is to leave it powered for an hour!


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by rebel alliance » Sat Jun 09, 2018 8:47 pm

Thats what i'm thinking 😮



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Post by spegru » Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:20 pm

suprisingly difficult to find a replacement old school coil. I did manage to find one that was marked 'not to be used on systems using contact breakers' which my car doesnt have and had the right terminals too - but still no joy. I still get that spark when the ignition amplifer is plugged in though.
Just no sparks when the distibutor turns.
Is there a particular coil that I should have vs this somewhat random one?



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Post by scimjim » Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:30 pm

Lucas DLB110 with ballast, 105 without.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by spegru » Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:59 am

Got the car running with new coil and going back to points. No real idea what the original problem was thoug



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