1982 GTC project gumtree

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1982 GTC project gumtree

Post by Corky » Mon Oct 30, 2017 10:02 am

There are a couple of photos of the webbing I replaced on GTC 404 here viewtopic.php?t=5721&start=240 . You may have to refresh the page to get the photos due to the Photobucket issue. I reused the original clamps after giving them a clean and a coat of paint, they're attached with rivets. I can't remember how I attached the ends to the buckles, but I certainly didn't sew them. I may have use a clamp, bonded them or attached them directly to the fixing bar under the back of the hood. It was a few years ago, and I no longer own the car.


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1982 GTC project gumtree

Post by ard126k » Tue Oct 31, 2017 10:37 pm

Thanks Steve, most helpful ideas.

Got the whole hood in place today. Think it looks OK? The velcro's off the B pillars so excuse the lack of fit there -
IMG_0624.JPG
IMG_0624.JPG (112.6 KiB) Viewed 1419 times
IMG_0622.JPG
IMG_0622.JPG (85.67 KiB) Viewed 1419 times
and got it folded under the stowage cover -
IMG_0621.JPG
IMG_0621.JPG (96.27 KiB) Viewed 1419 times
Could somebody advise whether the tongues at the front of the hood should have their bevels facing up or down? The hardtop has one facing up and one without a bevel at all :!:


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1982 GTC project gumtree

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue Oct 31, 2017 10:58 pm

Explain "tongues"... and "bevels"

Just a small hint for door window frames.....ensure they are well fitted at front top corner. On drivers side mine catches the hood front corner at the front of the outer gutter bit as door shuts and has frayed it so wet gets in and drips off the bit that hangs on the inside...(on right knee or edge of seat)......i.e. frame a tad too high.

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Last edited by Dennis Nicholas on Tue Oct 31, 2017 11:10 pm, edited 2 times in total.


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1982 GTC project gumtree

Post by petermisy » Tue Oct 31, 2017 11:05 pm

I think you are referring to the plate under the catch going into the windscreen head slot at the front?

Up, so when the go into the slot the headrail is pulled down slightly.

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Post by ard126k » Wed Nov 01, 2017 12:16 pm

Sorry that wasn't clear Dennis. Thanks for the tip about the door frames - I'll try to remember that when the time comes. I think I would have been inclined to fit the doors with the hardtop in place, on the basis that it's a fixed size and the soft top isn't !!

Got it, Peter thanks.


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Post by ard126k » Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:02 am

The rear seats are now installed, and I notice that the backs sit up straighter (less reclined) than on the SE6a. Is this a design feature to allow the hood to lie behind them I wonder, or have I got something else wrong?


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1982 GTC project gumtree

Post by DARK STAR » Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:15 am

I think mine are more upright than a GTE too, but I have no direct comparison.
You can help me this time, I want to replace a button on the rear seat, how do you get it out ?!


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Post by ard126k » Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:53 am

Is it on the base, or the back? Base is easy, if you get it out of the car you'll find the ends of the string which holds the button in place, just untie and remove. You may need a new length of string as they're only just long enough (trimmed after installation) and so hard to re-tie.
I haven't investigated the GTC backs, but on the front seats of a 6a the strings go over a bar of the seat frame and then tie off to another bar towards the bottom of the back. I would guess that if you remove the panel behind your seat back you should reveal the strings.
I had to re-cover some of my buttons and I managed it in situ. I cut off the worn bits of the old covers with nail scissors then pinched a bit of velour from a hidden corner under the seat base and cut it to fit the button with little fingers to tuck behind. Think 8-pointed star or sherriff's badge! Then a dab of contact glue on the button face and tuck the fingers under. They look ok from the front seats, time will tell how they hold up to use. These are velour cloth seats, but I imagine leather would work similarly.
Best of luck!!


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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue Nov 21, 2017 11:39 am

I have just done that on my GTC.
Undo the nuts and pivots that hold the back to the base and when you remove the back you will see how the upholstery is held on to the frame by push on clips along the bottom. They are spring steel U shaped with 2 little sharp spikes that point in-between the faces of the clip and dig into the frame metal to stay put (and form a small paint piercing rust starter area :( ) The clips can be prized off so that the upholstery will be free of the frame.
The upholstery is just a big bag pulled down over the seat back frame and padding. You may have to take off the seat reclining handle if you have difficulty getting access to the higher up buttons but I managed without having to do that. Each button has a loop of metal on the back. a thin strong string is doubled up and the fold pushed through the loop then opened up and passed over the loop and pulled tight on itself so it is held in place around the outside of the loop. The free ends of the string pass through the padding and go over metal bars from front to back and down to the base of the seat back where they are tied off on another bar under slight tension (to pull the button/upholstery inwards). When you take the back off and take the clips off all will be revealed. You may find that only one of the legs of the doubled up string is snapped so you can tie another bit onto it. When you pull the button out a LITTLE take the string with it so you can use the old string to pull the new through if needs be. Otherwise you will need a large needle to push through the padding and pull new string through leaving loop on surface to thread through and over button loop......then pull string tight and tie off on bottom bar. There are two bars that the string go over...you will see one near top and second further down.
The buttons have a front cup and a back with metal loop. The upholstery is put over the front cup and the back is pressed into the cup to hold material captive and gets slightly crimped in place......best of luck!!!!! My mouse eaten one had to be recovered with a small piece cut off the surplus where it is clipped on at the bottom (usually plenty of spare material just pushed in after clipping to frame. You can prise the 2 halves of the button apart VERY CAREFULLY but crimping back almost impossible without correct tool. I glued material onto front cup and stuffed into back again held with glue clamped in place with layer of plastic so clamp would not get stuck to button. Then put back part on having filled hollow with glue (araldite) and slightly crimped if possible and again clamped the two together and left to dry. It is worth painting button.....they rust when they get wet (those times you get caught out in a deluge with hood down on motorway!
This was a good opportunity to put a thin nylon washer between all metal surfaces that rub together when pivoting the seat. Old plastic food containers with thin lids can be used to make the washers.....another paint-scraped-off- rust potential area fixed.
Sorry about long winded description but it will at least give an idea and it is not too difficult. Believe you can probably buy buttons ready done, but colour match??

Dennis


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Post by ard126k » Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:24 pm

There are buttons you can cover yourself. Have a search. I can remember my mum using them in the 50s......


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1982 GTC project gumtree

Post by DARK STAR » Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:38 pm

Thanks for all your advice, and sorry to hijack the thread.
I should make myself clear 8) I have the button and know how to replace it (I have done others)
But I don't know how to get the seat base out of the car ...


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Post by scimjim » Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:42 pm

There are a couple of hidden screws on the 6b/GTC under the inertia reel covers (which are part of the seat base on the late cars).


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Post by ard126k » Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:43 pm

There are 2 brackets at the front (under the carpet) to unscrew.


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Post by DARK STAR » Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:57 pm

Thanks, I'll have a grovel in the rear footwell :D


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Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:08 pm

Later 6as had the fixing screws too :) Once the screws are undone, you may find the seat base still won't come out, especially if there has been damp around, as the fibreglass underside tends to get stuck to the insulating foam on the floor. So it may need a fairly firm pull to shift it.


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