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Gemini Bob
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The adventure never ends

Post by Gemini Bob » Mon Jul 27, 2009 5:13 pm

Well I called at the Garage today to see how work was progressing on the car, sump was off and can see no obvious holes in it but will investigate later and they were just removing the timing cover. First job out of the window it already has a Quaife steel timing gear fitted, ah well at least it will be getting new seals and gaskets; anyone need a steel timing gear and matching camsharft gearfor an Essex? :lol: Next job is to fill with oil run upto temp and then flush with forte engine flush and then a full engine service including plugs, Motorcraft oil filter, cap and rotor arm, refurbed rocker covers and gaskets and the valve clearances checked, after this it is checking all the brakes, supension fuel lines etc and making sure it will pass an MOT.

While the spare wheel was removed I noticed that although the wheel carrier and supports look very good there is a cross section across the front that is badly rusted and holed, not sure if this has anything to do with the MOT and my mate was not in to discuss it with him but will need doing at some point either way. I will call in again tomorrow to see how she is progressing, good news so far the phone hasn't rung :) I am hoping it doesn't unless its to say it has a new MOT and then the rest of the work can begin


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Bob
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Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:11 pm

Rot in the metal section across the front behind the headlamps is quite common, and it's not an MOT failure point (the Yellow Peril has it and it's never been a problem). It's one of those things that I keep intending to get around to :( it's a fairly simple straight L-section piece so I think it could probably be replaced with a piece of the right sized angle iron (which would probably be more solid than the original!).

cheers,

....Roger


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Post by scimjim » Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:38 pm

the only problem with that section, is if it rots to the extent that it's not supporting the nose cone, you can get cracking around the wheelarches and top of the wings due to the weight. The same can happen if the car is used without the radiator surround/spare wheel tray fitted (never mind the cooling issues :shock: )


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Coco La Blanc

Post by Coco La Blanc » Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:05 pm

Bob,
Interested in the Steel Timing Wheel and Camshaft for my boy's SE5 resto project. Contact me direct.
Regards,
Viv



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Post by Gemini Bob » Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:01 pm

Cheers Roger & Jim for the info, I will be asking tomorrow for a price for replacing it but it looks a swine to get to. Viv I have sent a PM.

I hope its not a sign of things to come but instead that its a case of out of sight out of mind as is maybe the case with yours Roger, being the person I am I will not rest until it is done as it will just bug me and as the car is a relatively unknow quantity as yet and I will worry as I always do; the bottom of the L section has holes in it but the upright section looks ok and either side where it attaches looks very sound but again only time will tell.

Is there anything attached to this section? if not would it not be better upside down as it would not hold water or even box section would probably be better


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Bob
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Post by scimjim » Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:06 pm

IIRC someone used to make galv replacements - was it Don Pither or QRG?

It's awkward to replace and a water trap - I'd replace with a galvanised box section.


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Post by philhoward » Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:16 pm

Andy Vine used to make them - and he sold them direct/through QRG, so probably Nigel.

I have some stainless folded angle (probably the same gauge as original - will measure it tomorrow) in approx 2m lengths which would do if anyone else is interested also...


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Post by Gemini Bob » Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:44 pm

Great minds Jim, stainless is one to consider too Phil as that would be far less problematic than the original but not sure how welding would go not having any knowledge on welding whatsoever as I have never needed any since my first real car purchase a mint Hillman avenger that was scrapped six months later due to it falling apart and leaving piles of rust dust everywhere it went :shock:


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Post by philhoward » Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:01 pm

With the stainless, you either need a good TIG welder, or get the bolts/pop rivets out, TBH...


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Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:01 pm

There shouldn't be any welding needed, AFAIK it's bolt-in. It's easy to say that of course, in fact it may have been bolt-in when Reliant put it there, but you can be pretty sure it won't bolt out again, after 30 years in the damp. :( :evil: It's almost certain to need the whole nose structure removing to gind off/drill out the bolts. I can't remember if the bumper bolts go through it as well?
That's really why I've been putting it off, I must admit I like the idea of stainless though, Phil. That would be a permanent solution to the problem. I'd certainly be interested to hear more!

cheers,

....Roger


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Post by philhoward » Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:02 pm

I'll bring some to Curborough...and get some measuements of what i've got tomorrow..


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Post by Coco La Blanc » Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:29 pm

Bob,
You never know - I may have one stored in the Workshop - Whoops I meant "Alladin's Cave" . I'll have a look tomorrow.
Regards,
Viv



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Post by Gemini Bob » Tue Jul 28, 2009 7:40 am

Maybe we can inspire one another to get it done Roger and if along the way we can find a better solution with a Little help from our ever helpfull friends, we could start a trend as I am sure there will be a few more requiring the same work. While everything is out I will see if I can work out if its bolted on or not and what is fastened to it, to be honest I can't remember seeing any bolts but the rust had me blinkered a tad. Cheers Viv any help is always appreciated


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Bob
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If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
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Resto viewtopic.php?f=20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

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Post by Coupe Racing » Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:35 am

Any replacement on any GTE could do with some drain holes AFAIC.

Its what I did to the numerous models I have owned over the last 20 odd years

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Post by philhoward » Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:39 am

From the QRG website:
SE6-6a Front nose support bracket, galvanised - £49.35
SE6-6a Front cross member support bracket galvanised - £15.75


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