se6 chassis and build progress.

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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MikeT
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se6 chassis and build progress.

Post by MikeT » Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:35 pm

Excellent - well done ;). It's always good when they pass, but even more so after work on this scale!

Cheers,

Mike.


1978 Scimitar SE6a - Project thread

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Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Mon Dec 18, 2017 9:31 pm

Thanks everyone, it's been great having people on board to give their support and encouragement, it is appreciated.
I've just come back from a good run out, 20 miles or so of mainly fast road. Considering the camber and tracking is way out (you can see the camber is out) it drives really well. I'm not sure about the Evo suspension set up though, the ride is quite hard and the springs short, so I may change that, it was new on the car when I bought it so stuck with it. It runs beautifully on vegetable oil, I filled it up this afternoon. I'll be very interested to see how it does on fuel, it pulls with huge amounts of torque from 800rpm! I'll try not to boast, but the heater is actually way too hot and as yet I've not fitted a valve so it's fan, no fan or window open. It heats up within a mile and the temperature stays bang on 90 with the Mercedes sender. I stopped after a long uphill fast run and felt the rad which was tepid on the return pipe.
Still lots to do, but it's much easier when its drivable!



Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Tue Dec 19, 2017 10:11 pm

Been out today for a good run today, half town heavy traffic and half country fast. Seems to get better and better. There is a really Annoying squeak coming from the dash on the drivers side, and on very heavy braking the engine moves forward enough for the alternator pulley to hit the chassis upright, so I'll have to keep an eye on that and perhaps make up a stop bar to prevent it. I'll monitor it to see if it continues to settle. After about an hour of stop start traffic the temperature rose quite suddenly, and after my original concern, I also noticed that the fuel gauge went up 1/4 tank, so that'll be the voltage regulator dodgy.
After the false temperature reading, I'd realised I'd not set the temperature on the fan thermostat, so I drove to a quiet spot in the country and let it idle to 100 degrees, and then set the thermostat to switch on. I let it cycle for 15 mins or so and it seems fine. The fan runs for 30-45 secs, then it takes3-4 mins before restarting. I'll be a bit happier now in town.
Still not got the speedo spot on so using sat nav.



Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Tue Dec 19, 2017 10:15 pm

Oh, and frosty this morning, the heated screen (wired in series so slower) took about 3 minutes to clear!
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superleggo
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Post by superleggo » Wed Dec 20, 2017 9:13 pm

Great to see this build running and on the road after so much effort. Well done. What a great Christmas present!



efi_sprintgte
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Post by efi_sprintgte » Wed Dec 20, 2017 9:32 pm

Yep, great to see it up and running


JC

Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Tue Dec 26, 2017 8:54 pm

Boxing Day escapism, I got an hour in the garage today and decided to do a quick bodge job to seal up the dreadful bonnet vents. I removed them both and made a gasket to blank the holes up that allow all the rain water the PO had fitted. It's a bodge, but it'll do for now. It's strange that the things were there to help overheating, but it never would as the water ran directly on to the distributor cap! The joy of it being diesel.....it starts every time, even in the wet.



Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Tue Dec 26, 2017 8:55 pm

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Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:26 pm

I finished work early today, so decided to have a go at getting the electric rear window opener in properly and ready to roll.
As you will have read before, I got the off side window in ok, but left getting the logistics of getting it working til a later date. I removed the trim panel so that I could make a mounting for the opener bit, and figure out where to put the motor. The pics hopefully explain what I did, and it now works!
Whilst the trim was off, I had a look at the speaker, I say speaker, it was rust, magnet and cardboard. I had some 6x9's so decided that I may as well go for it, so I mounted them in the body, cut out the trim panel and riveted some aluminium mesh over the 'hole'. I removed the arm rest to fit the mesh behind, and then used self tappers so it's easier to remove in the future.
A lot of faffing and measuring and I cut a slot in the trim to clear the opener, and re attached it with stainless cups and screws.
The last piece of the jigsaw was to make a cover for the opener, a bit of aluminium was bent around some pipe insulation, glued on, and then black felt glued over the lot. A tab slides in behind the trim and another screw underneath to hold it in place. I'll do it again when I find some blue vinyl :D
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Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:28 pm

Speaker mods...
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Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:29 pm

Rear trim fix...
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Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:30 pm

Ta Da!!!
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Benc
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Post by Benc » Thu Jan 04, 2018 9:30 pm

Top job you are doing there pal love the opening side windows

take me 🎩 off to you



Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Thu Jan 04, 2018 11:19 pm

Thanks Benk ! Still absolutely loads to do, I don't know if you saw the build earlier, but the reason I went rear opening was mainly to get over the common leak problem that roars the seat belt area. The near side is wet and leaking, and the new side is dry. I'm still deciding if I should stick the stainless surround to the glass or leave it plain.



Datsundrew
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Post by Datsundrew » Sun Feb 11, 2018 9:39 pm

Well, a quick update.
I’ve done over 1000 miles now, and no big issues. I’ve done a couple of motorway trips, and I’m getting on with it well. I’m going to look at making a top engine support to go from the top of the engine to the chassis to limit the amount the engine leans on hard acceleration, the reason being the severe noise and vibration I’m getting on hard acceleration. I thought I’d do a new mount first, and if it’s no better then look at the way the axle is mounted. As I said in a post before, there is no vibration or ny sign of metal to metal contact during normal gentle driving, but on the motorway if I hit the gas pedal hard the noise is huge! I will say that the torque is fairly big too. Anyone have ny suggestions? I’m assuming rubber trailing arms rather poly?



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