Matt's 6a

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Re: Fuel pump

Post by JoeySully » Mon May 25, 2015 1:39 pm

mattscimmy wrote:
Fuel pump, one of the pipes has pulled from the casting (just like the carb). Has anyone else had this problem?, suppose I'll just pin it like the carb ones.
Happened me while I was out driving one day, just noticed it while checking coolant level. Only had a hammer so tapped it home and its not moved since. A mills pin would be a good permanent fix though.



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Re: Matt's 6a

Post by oldynewby » Mon May 25, 2015 2:49 pm

Mmm. The mythical Mills pin! Where does one locate such a beast? I mean, if the Reliant dealers couldn't get hold of them....


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Re: Matt's 6a

Post by scimjim » Mon May 25, 2015 4:31 pm

They were issued to Reliant dealers (I have one taped to the Bulletin somewhere) along with dimensions to make more.


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Re: Matt's 6a

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon May 25, 2015 6:20 pm

Mills Pins on ebay? - these may be a bit fat, but maybe they could suggest a source of thinner ones? Or perhaps these might do the job?

Also, with no details at all, here on Rimmer bros.


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Jobs done

Post by mattscimmy » Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:56 pm

Fuel pump pipes pinned.
Tappet clearances reset.
New water pump.
New silicone hoses.
Osram night beater bulbs fitted.



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Running weak

Post by mattscimmy » Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:03 pm

Seems to be a common problem.
co was 0.06 at tickover for MOT but increased to about 2.5 at revs.
Plugs are white on all cylinders car running OK tends to heat up in standing traffic fan on alot but doesn't overheat.
Tickover a bit lumpy.
Colortune can't get yellow flame at all. Screwing pilot jet screw in causes revs to drop almost to stalling and very lumpy wandering idle speed, but still blue flame.

What do you think carb or air leaks.



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Re: Matt's 6a

Post by AJL Electronics » Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:05 pm

Pilot jet screw? Sounds like you need my setup guide which id FOC to members.


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warped carb spacer.

Post by mattscimmy » Sat Jun 20, 2015 2:24 pm

Can I dress this flat to match the carb, or will it compress flat and I don't need to worry or must it be replaced.
Thanks



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Re: Running weak

Post by Coupe Racing » Sat Jun 20, 2015 2:41 pm

mattscimmy wrote:Seems to be a common problem.
co was 0.06 at tickover for MOT but increased to about 2.5 at revs.
Plugs are white on all cylinders car running OK tends to heat up in standing traffic fan on alot but doesn't overheat.
Tickover a bit lumpy.
Colortune can't get yellow flame at all. Screwing pilot jet screw in causes revs to drop almost to stalling and very lumpy wandering idle speed, but still blue flame.

What do you think carb or air leaks.

Little wonder it won't run right if you have 0.06CO at idle and you are screwing things IN

Mixture is set at idle and not RPM

Take the idle screws OUT to obtain at least 2.5% CO at idle with throttle butterflies set correctly


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Re: Matt's 6a

Post by AJL Electronics » Sat Jun 20, 2015 4:10 pm

Quite. I normally aim for 3%. Anything below 2 and you are dangerously lean.


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breather valve

Post by mattscimmy » Sat Jun 20, 2015 5:48 pm

So I left the spacer, as I felt it would flatten once the carb is lightly torqued down.
Few issues with carb sorted with rebuild kit.
Tickover very smooth at indicated 500rpm.
mixture screws adjusted to give hint of yellow on middle pots with colortune, might be slightly rich , we'll see.
mixture screws out 6.5 turns, no indication of leakage with brake cleaner test.

If I block the rocker breather pipe mixture becomes significantly richer, is this normal?



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Re: Matt's 6a

Post by AJL Electronics » Sat Jun 20, 2015 7:15 pm

At six and a half turns out, you are either wildly rich, or you have the wrong jets. Normal range is three to four turns out. Forget the tools apart from Mk1 earole. Run the screws all the way in and count three and a half out both sides. Start the engine with whatever idle speed adjustment required to keep it running. Adjust both sides by half a turn and assess running. If it smooths out, reduce idle and do it again. If worse, then go back the other way until you have the slowest idle you can get. Once happy, reset to normal idle and that is the job sorted.


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Re: Matt's 6a

Post by mattscimmy » Sat Jun 20, 2015 8:09 pm

I read your setup guide Andy, thankyou.
I didn't realize there was an issue until I went for the MOT and got the low CO result. Though now that makes sense for slightly slow pickup slightly lumpy idling and overheating in traffic jams. Otherwise I was happy with the way it ran.
I had set the carb up by ear and the best running was at 2.5 turns out.
Since rebuilding the carb the running improves until 2.5 turns out then very little difference, only kept turning the mixture screws out because the the coloutune wasn't changing.
It does however run much smoother now but tickover is faster, I can't get it below an indicated 500rpm
I'm going to take it for a run tomorrow. if it runs fine and plug colour is good, then something is not right somewhere. Hopefully plugs will be black and I can screw the mixture screws in a turn or 2.



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Re: Matt's 6a

Post by scimjim » Sat Jun 20, 2015 8:12 pm

500rpm tickover is too low (even for an auto in D I think)?


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Re: Matt's 6a

Post by mattscimmy » Sat Jun 20, 2015 8:23 pm

Maybe the tacho is wrong, it sounds fast.
i always set tickover as low as possible, so long as it doesnt stall. can there be a problem with low tickover?



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