Corky's Scimitars and other short stories

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Post by Dcrosby13 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:24 am

Nice job you have done there man, how did you get rid of the line where you had taped it off?


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Post by Corky » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:25 am

Could be this one https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke- ... iven-ai-2/ , but mine’s blue. I’ve had it about 15 years.


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Post by Corky » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:29 am

The line is still visible if you look really close, but I taped it at the crease line to try and take your eye of it. Just before I clear coated I pulled the tape back and flatted the join. I saw a YouTube video that used that technique.

It could do with another flat and polish at the join, but I’m waiting for it to properly harden before I try again. I have a dual action polisher and all the compounds (full Cheshire emergency car kit), so it’s not a lot of effort :lol:


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Post by Dcrosby13 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:35 am

let me know how you get on, the whole tape line thing has always been an issue for me.


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Post by CNHSS1 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:57 am

I was told to overlap the taped line with a piece of tape but bent up so you get a definitive edge from the main taped line, but then a roof or shelter over it. This gives a slightly more gradual blend and reduces the same level of paint all the way up to the taped line.

But youve seen my paint skills, so disregard at will :lol:


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Post by Dcrosby13 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:39 am

Sounds like a good tip, cheers.


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Post by Corky » Thu Mar 26, 2020 11:18 am

That's what I did for the lacquering, but I think I had the angle of the nozzle wrong an maybe spayed too much at the join. I should be able to flat this back and make it disappear. This pic was taken just before I sprayed it, note folded back tape :mrgreen: 8)
Painted.jpg
Painted.jpg (174.34 KiB) Viewed 482 times


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Post by *JP* » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:50 pm

I method I have used for a local paint repair is to apply the base coat and simply fade it out within the panel.

Then flat the edges of the paint and go over the whole panel with a grey ( fine) scotchbrite pad and finally lacquer the whole panel.

The end results were very good,but that was with non metallic paint,undetectable repairs to metallic colours have always been beyond my skills!

.



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Post by Corky » Thu Apr 30, 2020 6:52 pm

It's been a very busy few weeks at work, so I've not had much chance to do anything to the SS1. It's sat on the trailer Insured and MOT'd, but there's no point in taxing it until we're out of lockdown. I've been using the S2000 for work, and enjoyed it so much I've insured it for another year. So it's no longer for sale.

I've had a few days off, so as no.2 son was pecking at my head to do some garage work, I agreed to take another look at the engine that has been sat on the stand for over 2 years. It's actually the original engine from the SS1. Despite changing the bearings a while back, I couldn't remember what else I'd done to it, so pulled the crank and pistons again, reassembled the bottom end with new gaskets and seals and attached the NOS sump with some shiny new set screws. I've also ordered a new water pump or two :mrgreen:

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As I'll be fitting the Canadian manifold, I need to move the oil cooler. I'm not sure what configuration I'm going to go with, but it'll mean replacing the stub in the following picture. It took me two hours of measuring and internet trawling to establish that it had an M18 1.5 thread. The stub I found to replace was M18 to AN8 (or 3/4 UNF 16 in old money). This looks to be the same as the one that Craig used on one of his engines, the photo is on here somewhere. When that arrives I'll work out if I'm going down the sandwich plate to oil cooler route and whether or not it'll be a thermostatic plate.

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Moving on to the Canadian Manifold. I noticed that there was some sort of hardened plastic putty covering up four holes that sit between the manifold tubes and the emissions chamber thingy. Photos show a big chunk I chipped out, and the holes.

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I thought about making a plate to cover the chamber, but I think that having the holes open will upset the air flow into the cylinders. So my idea is to block the holes with countersunk set screws and nylocs, with a suitable gasket or O ring either side (I was thinking of cutting them from an old one piece sump gasket).

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That's probably it for another couple of weeks.....



Edit. Quoted from my SS1 DET engine rebuild:-
CNHSS1 wrote:
Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:04 pm
remove the slotted stud, fit adaptor

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then add either a take off (Mocal not ebay tat!).
you can then add the filter directly, or add the oil/water cooler and fit a remote filter

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Post by philhoward » Thu Apr 30, 2020 7:20 pm

Thought for the holes - drill to next size up, insert (with hammer and bearing fit) some aluminium rod but before you do, cut a slot in the “safe” side about 5mm deep - then open it out to “peen” it in place. I did this on an inlet manifold adaptor and mirrors how throttle plate screws fail to come undone..


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Post by Corky » Thu Apr 30, 2020 9:08 pm

Cheers Phil, I'll have a think about that.


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Post by philhoward » Thu Apr 30, 2020 9:13 pm

Tickle with a die grinder if they poke out afterwards - if you need a picture (and some rod if it’s the right size - I had to buy a metre to make 4 pieces half an inch long :evil: ) of my blocking up of K-Jetronic injector holes let me know and I’ll venture into the garage tomorrow.


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Post by gtcse8 » Thu Apr 30, 2020 9:17 pm

philhoward wrote:
Thu Apr 30, 2020 9:13 pm
I had to buy a metre to make 4 pieces
You should have asked Phil :idea:


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Post by philhoward » Thu Apr 30, 2020 9:19 pm

Was thinking on the hoof at the time - was nearly 4 M10 bolts..

On the flip side, it replenishes my metal stocks..


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Post by CNHSS1 » Thu Apr 30, 2020 10:20 pm

Pretty sure i had them welded up Steve, along with a unused water take off near the thermostat by a mate of Chris Eades


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