"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

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Pepe
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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Sat Oct 12, 2019 8:46 pm

Hey Jim,

Re Starter:
I overhauled the starter halfway already, both the contact plates and the solenoid coil where out and cleaned.
IIRC the starter had some issues when first using it to start the engine for tests in the chassis, but not entirely sure if this was just an electrical issue.
Finally I rewound and checked the solenoid coil. Think I had some photos on here earlier in this thread...
Image

Funny thing is that when engine is cold all is totally fine and both battery and starter work fine. Mostly it does also when warm although it seems the the starter has to work harder or less current is flowing.
It seems to just appear when engine is extremely hot (Maybe Battery also doesn't deliver enough then?!?)

Re the drums/brakes:
The 6a had the same brake drums in the back??
Wheren't they MG-B? Definitely they wheren't compatible with the SE5a....
The handbrakewheel is alloy, the levers look like this:

Image

Doesn't seem to be overly worn or bend or the like. Or is the small worn pit in the leaver the thing to blame?



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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Kittyhawk » Sat Oct 12, 2019 10:13 pm

I had similar starting problems with my BMW 1200 GT - fine starting from cold but would not turn engine over when hot. Replaced battery but still the same problem! It then turned out that the lead from the battery to the starter was not up to the job, and could not deliver the current when the motor was hot - replaced by BMW as a recall and never had a problem again!! Could be the answer in your case??


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Nick

1977 Se6a Banana Car 3
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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by gtcse8 » Sun Oct 13, 2019 10:52 am

Pepe wrote:
Sat Oct 12, 2019 8:46 pm
Re the drums/brakes:
The 6a had the same brake drums in the back??
Weren't they MG-B? Definitely they weren't compatible with the SE5a....
We have been here before IIRC, SE6 brakes were a carry over from the SE5a, Girling.
Reliant then went for Smaller discs at the front and larger drums at the rear, all made by Lockheed.
The Drum was Bespoke to Reliant, but the rear backplate and workings were MGB.

The MGB setup can be fitted to earlier cars by re drilling the mountings for the back plates so that the handbrake cable lines up with the operating lever, a very worthwhile conversion as the Lockheed system is far superior to the Elderly Girling system. :wink:


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Mon Oct 14, 2019 5:54 pm

Kittyhawk wrote:
Sat Oct 12, 2019 10:13 pm
I had similar starting problems with my BMW 1200 GT - fine starting from cold but would not turn engine over when hot. Replaced battery but still the same problem! It then turned out that the lead from the battery to the starter was not up to the job, and could not deliver the current when the motor was hot - replaced by BMW as a recall and never had a problem again!! Could be the answer in your case??
Thanks. I can check some connections. During restoration I routed a 16 or 25 sqmm directly from BAT to Starter. The rest of the car has short 16 sqmm with bolt-in fuse (250A) to avoid the worst, distributed over original 9.5mm blade hub piece (which was cleaned and newly crimped/soldered of course).

Battery negative though is worth a check. First there is an antiTheft Battery disconnect and second, BAT Negative is routed to original position at front crossmember where also the frontlamps earth.
Current needs to flow over the chassis and the short jump-lead to Starter.

I do not have any other issues with any electrics anywhere (...or bad earths), but of course nothing draws as much current as the essex starter.

gtcse8 wrote:
Sun Oct 13, 2019 10:52 am
....
We have been here before IIRC, SE6 brakes were a carry over from the SE5a, Girling.
Reliant then went for Smaller discs at the front and larger drums at the rear, all made by Lockheed.
The Drum was Bespoke to Reliant, but the rear backplate and workings were MGB.

The MGB setup can be fitted to earlier cars by re drilling the mountings for the back plates so that the handbrake cable lines up with the operating lever, a very worthwhile conversion as the Lockheed system is far superior to the Elderly Girling system. :wink:

Yes exaclty what I had in mind... all same drums until 6. 6a -MB then had different Lockheeds in the rear...

I went with original drums for some reasons - incl. too many cars, too few time and too less workshop possibilites currently... Converting still is an option though for later :) Maybe a better working, more secure 2 way Brake systems as intended earlier in the threat..

I guess another option to improve the "elderly Girling" System is a half cut nut as a spacer for the HB lever... I read this somewhere in the Forum herefrom Don kennedys pages...unfortunately too late, as Axle back then was already reassembled and completed....

Hassomebody tried the Slotted nut andcan proove it works ok?
Do you guys think the handbrake levers above are worn?


1975 SE5a restoration link
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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by MikeyBikey » Wed Oct 16, 2019 7:35 pm

Hi Pepe, my 5a has always had a poor handbrake. Even with new bits , ( cables, slaves, shims etc etc just rubbish) I've now got a rear disk conversion and its still poor so can only assume its also the handbrake lever mechanism etc etc.


Is we sideways yet...

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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by gtcse8 » Wed Oct 16, 2019 8:04 pm

Easiest and cheapest conversion is Lockheed.
SE6a onwards, and should not effect the German MOT as it is still from a Reliant Scimitar. :!:

Hand brake turns are fun :wink:

I also have Brand New Essex starter solenoids, and also the rebuild kit for the contacts as in your picture.
Mikey still with the original handbrake fitted, makes a massive difference.


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by MikeyBikey » Fri Oct 18, 2019 7:46 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Wed Oct 16, 2019 8:04 pm
Easiest and cheapest conversion is Lockheed.
Mikey still with the original handbrake fitted, makes a massive difference.
Hi Mark, I have original lever, original cables (albeit new) but rover 800 rear calipers to which the cables affix and .. its still cr*p

I'm tempted to go hydraulic handbrake :?:


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by gtcse8 » Fri Oct 18, 2019 8:08 pm

Hi Mikey
I have done around 25 conversions to the Lockheed hand brake and I can seriously endorse it.
I think its probably a lot cheaper than any other " Upgrade"
I have never come across the Disc brake conversion, but each to their own.
The handbrake lever is very similar on the SE6 to the Se5 and I have never needed to drill the "Upper" holes to alter the Fulcrum on the lever if it`s not already there.


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Tue Oct 22, 2019 2:26 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Wed Oct 16, 2019 8:04 pm
Easiest and cheapest conversion is Lockheed.
SE6a onwards, and should not effect the German MOT as it is still from a Reliant Scimitar. :!:
True! Only worry: Wheel cylinders SE6a, what size are they? Will they fit 5a Girling brakes (single line vs dual line and unknown piston bores)?
These are Dual Piston type also versus the single piston sliding rack type in the 5.

gtcse8 wrote:
Wed Oct 16, 2019 8:04 pm
Hand brake turns are fun :wink:
also true :)

gtcse8 wrote:
Wed Oct 16, 2019 8:04 pm
I also have Brand New Essex starter solenoids, and also the rebuild kit for the contacts as in your picture.
Mikey still with the original handbrake fitted, makes a massive difference.
....I don't really think that thos are currently the issue, but just in case and to rebuilt the unit once out again (...and pre-Brexit), would you be able to sell a set? :)


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Tue Oct 22, 2019 2:31 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Fri Oct 18, 2019 8:08 pm
Hi Mikey
I have done around 25 conversions to the Lockheed hand brake and I can seriously endorse it.
I think its probably a lot cheaper than any other " Upgrade"
I have never come across the Disc brake conversion, but each to their own.
The handbrake lever is very similar on the SE6 to the Se5 and I have never needed to drill the "Upper" holes to alter the Fulcrum on the lever if it`s not already there.
Hey Mark,

I guess you'd need a complete set of parts needed from the SE6a R-parts Catalogue then....
Besides that, can you recall any other modifications you needed to do (e.g. Piston bore diameters smaller or larger than SE6a on converted SE5/a?)?
Do you need 6a hubs as well for the 4HA SE5/a rearAxle?

Thanks!


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by gtcse8 » Tue Oct 22, 2019 3:48 pm

Hi Christian
I can supply a NEW complete Solenoid unit or Just the contactor sets and housing, I keep both parts.

As for the change to the later Lockheed setup, it`s just a straight swap using the Lockheed backplate, all brake components and the drum which fits the original 4HA hubs.
The back plate just needs the 4 bolts pitch altering so the cable will clip to the Lockheed lever.

Lockheed cylinders are 20MM and they don`t OVER brake the car i.e. make it difficult to drive.
There are smaller bore cylinders that will fit, but I have never needed to change them.


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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