And so it begins

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Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Apr 15, 2019 7:47 pm

That's normal (assuming the dampers and bushes are correct) on the Se6a - See this post and the following ones for more details


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Post by Steve_S » Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:35 pm

So I turned up some new top hat spacers and have welded them into the shocker mounts and everything is fitting tougher better and looks right
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Post by scimjim » Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:48 pm

Doesn’t the larger diameter go on the inside to abut the damper bush and decrease the width to suit modern dampers - or have you refitted the mounting plates closer together?


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Post by Steve_S » Sun May 26, 2019 8:39 pm

scimjim wrote:
Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:48 pm
Doesn’t the larger diameter go on the inside to abut the damper bush and decrease the width to suit modern dampers - or have you refitted the mounting plates closer together?


The dampers which are spax [G3330 3HC] somebody has forced the lower mounts apart [and the uppers] to get the shocker to fit in with the spacers inboard which is why I made some more that the collar sits inside the gap to pick up on the shocker sleeve.
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Post by Steve_S » Sun May 26, 2019 8:51 pm

So slowly been putting it all back together had to drill and tap both trunnions for a lock stop and turn a couple of lock stops up.
Painted up all the suspension parts new suspension bushes repack the wheel bearings clean up the discs.
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Post by JoeySully » Sun May 26, 2019 9:14 pm

Looking hood. Nice to get some shiny bits on 😁

Why the nylock nuts on the upper fulcrum rather than castleated nuts?

I had to make some washers like you did also to fit the spax.
I noticed today that the upper ones were turning in the upper mount eye which is not good. The metal for the upper mount is thinner i guess. I will have yo cut yhem down a bit. I will be talking yo spax tomorrow and will highlight the issues with the later se6a shocks differing from the earlier ones.



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Post by AJL Electronics » Sun May 26, 2019 9:30 pm

PAS trunnions generally have no need of lock stops which is why they are not drilled and tapped from new. Only the manual needs them and new trunnions are tapped ready.


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Post by JoeySully » Sun May 26, 2019 9:53 pm

I have found the brake disk can rub on the trunnion bolt without the lockstops on my pas se6a.



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Post by Oldconn » Mon May 27, 2019 8:24 am

Me too. I have fitted lockstops to my 1979 SE6A with PAS because the rack does not appear to have any limits.


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Post by Steve_S » Mon May 27, 2019 8:52 am

AJL Electronics wrote:
Sun May 26, 2019 9:30 pm
PAS trunnions generally have no need of lock stops which is why they are not drilled and tapped from new. Only the manual needs them and new trunnions are tapped ready.
JoeySully wrote:
Sun May 26, 2019 9:53 pm
I have found the brake disk can rub on the trunnion bolt without the lockstops on my pas se6a.
Oldconn wrote:
Mon May 27, 2019 8:24 am
Me too. I have fitted lockstops to my 1979 SE6A with PAS because the rack does not appear to have any limits.
When I assembled the suspension on a dry run it was rubbing on full lock which is why I made the lock stops as oldconn and joeySully have said the rack moves to a point where the brake disc rubs the trunnion bolt.
Just my experience with my Scim
no biggey to make a couple of stops :D



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Post by Steve_S » Mon May 27, 2019 8:56 am

JoeySully wrote:
Sun May 26, 2019 9:14 pm
Why the nylock nuts on the upper fulcrum rather than castleated nuts?
No reason other than its what was fitted :)



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Post by Steve_S » Mon May 27, 2019 9:16 am

So among the other jobs Iv been doing on the Scim I was trying to think of a way to address the worn holes where self tappers have been uses and over the years different owners have put larger and large self tappers in till they dont grip or you end up with 3 ft wide self tappers :lol:
I did think about filling the holes but its still self tappers, ok if you don't take them out regular.
Anyway I found these on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6-M8- ... 2749.l2649
I used the type D 4mm and a dab or super glue to secure them
Now probably not ideal for all situations but its stopped the instrument binnacle rattling :D



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Post by AJL Electronics » Mon May 27, 2019 9:27 am

Have a look for Lokut fixings too, they were used extensively by Reliant for that purpose.


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Post by scimjim » Mon May 27, 2019 9:32 am

Or rivnuts.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by TrevorG » Mon May 27, 2019 10:18 am

Steve, I found those fixings invaluable for one job on my scimitar. I removed the handles on the rear seat backs to get at the coverings and, sods law, all the inside fixings popped out. Wondering how to easily fix the problem, I drilled the holes larger, screwed in the inserts and, hey presto, got the handles back on with the original covers!

I then did the same with smaller ones for the fuel lines when I upgraded these as I wasn't happy with the way the original fittings had worked loose.



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