Ford's SS1

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Ford
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Post by Ford » Wed Jan 30, 2019 8:06 pm

Fingers crossed for a dry weekend.
I'm getting close to thinking about an MOT now.
Some of the jobs I need to do are adjusting rear brakes and handbrake cable, bleed brakes, refit radiator fan, refit heater fan, plumb up new radiator, refit front crossmember, adjust headlights, surround a bumper back on.
I still haven't thought about the quarterlight frames and doors, I think I'll have a go at welding up the pieces I have, but again that'll probably be after MOT.

Do you think I'll pass an MOT with unadjustable electric mirrors? :?


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Post by scimjim » Wed Jan 30, 2019 8:31 pm

As long as the tester has a reasonable view to the rear, yes. They can still be adjusted by hand.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by Ford » Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:25 pm

After undoing downpipe nuts, it was obviously very warped like Jim suggested, so I took it off completely to file flat.
Then noticed a couple of cracks and pinholes in the weld between the pipe and 'V' piece.

A future upgrade will likely be a 4 branch manifold and downpipe, so I'd like to just get this one repaired for the short term.

Is welding likely to be a success?


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Post by scimjim » Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:31 pm

It should weld okay - problem will be the pinholes, which might indicate very thin metal?

I have several spares :D


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by Alan SS1 » Mon Feb 04, 2019 12:43 pm

Ford wrote:
Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:25 pm
After undoing downpipe nuts, it was obviously very warped like Jim suggested, so I took it off completely to file flat.
Then noticed a couple of cracks and pinholes in the weld between the pipe and 'V' piece.

A future upgrade will likely be a 4 branch manifold and downpipe, so I'd like to just get this one repaired for the short term.

Is welding likely to be a success?
as a 'stop-gap' try cleaning out the area where you plan to weld and press in some exhaust repair paste

then give it a good roasting on gas cooker

but if loads of pin-holes I'd discuss options with Jim :-)


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Post by Ford » Sun Feb 10, 2019 11:44 pm

Am I right in thinking that the CVH alternator ribbed v belt is an AVX10?


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Post by Alan SS1 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:42 pm

Ford wrote:
Sun Feb 10, 2019 11:44 pm
Am I right in thinking that the CVH alternator ribbed v belt is an AVX10?
doesn't seem correct, usually the code has the length eg 4x655, 4 v and 755 long (as an example) but don't rely on my memory as i have a belt from a montego on ours!

Montego drive belt 755 R4


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Regal 330 (VAV ---) now passed to another 'keen owner'

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Post by scimjim » Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:47 pm

AVX is a type of belt, you’re missing the length (eg AVX10-550)

Although I don’t think it’s the right cross section anyway if this pic is correct?
0886BC77-1D33-49B6-92C7-A25B395F31EC.jpeg
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Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by scimjim » Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:49 pm



Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Ford
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Post by Ford » Sun Feb 17, 2019 1:53 pm

Wiper had previous worked, but after not having tried it probably since last year, will now not budge.
Switch is fine, and bypassing the delay unit makes no difference.
Removing the speaker gives a bit of a view of the motor. Still not much access, but a quick probe around the plug with a multimeter shows it's getting 12V, and other pins get 12V when the stalk is moved, which sadly seems to indicate something up with the motor.

Anything to check before I start fretting more about possibly needing to remove it?

EDIT: When I'd used it previously, the wipers would continue moving even when the stalk was moved back to the off position. Going to have a poke around at the park switch


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Post by Ford » Sat Jul 06, 2019 11:07 pm

Long time since posting again (sorry for another War and Peace, Jim :lol: )

Wipers are working fine now since oiling the wheelbox.

Alternator belt swapped for an AVX10 profile which is a perfect fit in the pulleys. Don't recall the length, something over 800mm.

Had to remove carb to clean and service the water autochoke on TLDM, runs nicely since then.

Golf Mk2 radiator plumbed in with new pipe route.

Front sidelight/indicator terminals had rusted quite badly.
Took the metal parts out, repaired and soldered on a couple of new tabs, now working nicely.

Rear bumper and lights are on, tested and working.
Front bumper and headlight surround are on. Gaps will never be anywhere near symetrical but nobody will see sides both at once. :roll:

Reverse switch is broken, but I can't face removing engine and gearbox to do that. I don't want to cut the tub and chassis.
Thought about just putting a switch inside with wires running down so I can flick them on to let people know what I'm doing.

Nonessential wiring removed from dash, got the lights, flash, etc., all working as I want them to.

Handbrake is adjusted at the lever end, but not holding the wheels.
The drums only just clear shoes when taking off, so presuming I just need to adjust the cable at the backplates.

I had hoped the front brakes didn't need much doing to them.
Checked front bleed nipples, two snapped with almost no effort.
Removed one without much trouble, other wouldn't come out even after heating with acetylene.
Tried to find a good half caliper without luck.
Managed to find that a friend of my uncle that used to build and race Minis had a pair.
Got them home, and realised they were the wider calipers.
Cleaned them up and gave a "service", and ordered some new vented discs from gtcse8.
In the meantime, fitted the wider calipers with spacers, front circuit of brakes wasn't bleeding or working.
Removed master cylinder, was very clogged up with minerally bits, so gave it a good clean and refitted.
Everything then working smoothly.
New discs arrived a couple of weeks ago but only had chance to fit them today.
Pulled hubs, soaked with penetrating oil and managed to get the old discs off (which measured 6.2mm thick :!: :!: :!: ). Very warped, and one cracked in half when whacking the hub off.
New discs bolted on with the 1.4mm shims, centres them nicely in the calipers.
Sit down and have a cuppa.

Lots more work than "oh I'll just check the nipples are loose and bleed them", but in hindsight were in quite dangerous condition.
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scimjim
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Post by scimjim » Sat Jul 06, 2019 11:18 pm

Looking good 8)


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by reliant-reviver » Sun Jul 07, 2019 9:08 am

Coming along nicely. Ready for Curborough in August?


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Ford
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Post by Ford » Sun Jul 07, 2019 10:24 am

That was my big goal but struggling with some of the finishing touches for MOT. I will do my best!


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Ford
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Post by Ford » Sun Jul 07, 2019 3:11 pm

Thank you for the replies

Handbrake not working properly was because of the little plastic pad wear indicator things getting stuck behind the levers on pads. They are quite a loose fit, so if I have any trouble with it again they'll come out and replace with bungs.


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