Philip's thread of 660XYB stuff

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chrisgallacher
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660XYB Engine fix

Post by chrisgallacher » Fri Dec 07, 2018 11:30 am

I'm pretty sure I soaked mine when fitted a few years ago - and it's been oil-tight (well, ish :) ) since.

Btw do you know what the original colour of the engine block was? I did mine green as I was under the impression that's how they left the factory, but I think now I was wrong and they were in fact blue. Anybody know for sure?
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660XYB Engine fix

Post by Old and Slow » Sat Dec 08, 2018 8:45 pm

Mine's currently black, but that might be all the grease and grime... :)
Chris, will your engine stand bolt on when the flywheel and clutch are still in place? You seem to have bolted the plate up against the block directly, I think I'd need spacers?


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660XYB Engine fix

Post by chrisgallacher » Sat Dec 08, 2018 9:43 pm

The stand comes with spacer arms, but I didn't use them. I used the bellhousing fixing holes to mount the engine to the stand, but can't really recall why I didn't use the arms - possibly I didn't have long enough UNC bolts to go through them into the block?? They're 20mm square section I think. I used some thick steel plates I had kicking around, using the bellhousing bolts themselves:
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I think there's room for the flywheel to stay on the engine, particularly if you use the proper spacer arms. Not sure about the clutch assembly, but you'll be removing this presumably to change the clutch?


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660XYB Engine fix

Post by chrisgallacher » Sat Dec 08, 2018 10:08 pm

But in any case, you'll have the flywheel off if you're taking the crank out to replace that oil seal?

Anyway, I have all the fixings which came with the stand, plus my own adapter brackets I think - you're welcome to borrow it all.


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660XYB Engine fix

Post by guybetts » Sun Dec 09, 2018 12:24 am

I mounted mine on the side, using the engine and dynamo mountings.


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660XYB Engine fix

Post by Old and Slow » Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:47 pm

Making some progress: draining fluids, and I've removed the starter. I think it is a later type as it is pre-engage (I assume '60's Fords weren't?)
Here's a couple of pictures, what do you think of the teeth on the starter pinion? Suggestions welcome!
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Pre-engage Starter
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Pinion teeth
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660XYB Engine fix

Post by roymck » Sun Dec 16, 2018 2:36 pm

Teeth look shagged , no Ford of that era had a pre-engaged starter but I was told 30 odd years ago that the starter from a Vauxhall 1800/2300 OHC engine would fit , never actually tried it but might be worth looking at one for a new pinion if you dont know what this starter is off.



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660XYB Engine fix

Post by chrisgallacher » Sun Dec 16, 2018 3:06 pm

They don't look too clever. Beyond help from dressing with a file? Wonder why they're chewed up like that?

You can also get modern lightweight, pre-engaged high torque starters for the Ford S6 I think.


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660XYB Engine fix

Post by Oldconn » Sun Dec 16, 2018 3:21 pm

Pardon me for sticking my nose in, but I think I recognise those tressed seals. I think they were made by James Walker &co ,makers of Lion Brand seals for donkeys' years. They used to have two factories in Woking , which both closed about fifteen years ago, and now they have a modern factory at Whitehaven. Anyway, if I am correct, they incorporate a dry graphite powder for initial lubrication, and the fabric of the weave is entirely oil-proof(as you would expect). So pre-oiling will do them no harm, and may help with bedding-in. :)


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660XYB Engine fix

Post by Old and Slow » Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:54 am

All relevant information gratefully received, Oldconn, thanks.


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660XYB Engine fix

Post by toolmanchris » Mon Dec 17, 2018 1:27 pm

Old and Slow wrote:
Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:47 pm
Making some progress: draining fluids, and I've removed the starter. I think it is a later type as it is pre-engage (I assume '60's Fords weren't?)
Here's a couple of pictures, what do you think of the teeth on the starter pinion? Suggestions welcome!
I suppose it begs the question is the ring gear in the same state? ;-)
Never stripped one of these down all the way but is the pinion reversable? Might move the damage to an area that is not used :-)


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660XYB Engine fix

Post by Old and Slow » Thu Dec 20, 2018 1:32 pm

Been busy taking off more ancillaries, the rad is now out, so only the upper cross-member and engine mounts plus the bell-housing bolts to go. I ned to get the engine hoist organised !!
Here's a picture of the rad; I'll power wash it and clean off all the dead flies etc., I don't know what source Reliant used, so I'll measure it up, for the record, just in case......
radiator.jpg
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660XYB Engine fix

Post by Old and Slow » Thu Dec 20, 2018 1:34 pm

I'll probably follow Chris's suggestion and dress the teeth, but look into the possibility of reversing it (although the teeth need a tapered entry profile; I think the other end has squared-off teeth).


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660XYB Engine fix

Post by roymck » Thu Dec 20, 2018 2:10 pm

Old and Slow wrote:
Thu Dec 20, 2018 1:32 pm
Been busy taking off more ancillaries, the rad is now out, so only the upper cross-member and engine mounts plus the bell-housing bolts to go. I ned to get the engine hoist organised !!
Here's a picture of the rad; I'll power wash it and clean off all the dead flies etc., I don't know what source Reliant used, so I'll measure it up, for the record, just in case......

radiator.jpg
SE4 V6 radiator is so similar , is it mounted 2 bolts one side 1 bolt on the other
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Last edited by roymck on Fri Dec 21, 2018 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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660XYB Engine fix

Post by Old and Slow » Thu Dec 20, 2018 3:38 pm

Yep, two bolts on the off-side and one bolt on the nearside, all with fat rubber washers between the chassis uprights and the radiator to give some tolerance, I suppose. Not fully rubber mounted, though, as the bolts are solidly held by the bosses in the uprights.


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