se6 chassis and build progress.

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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gtcse8
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Post by gtcse8 » Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:41 pm

Roger and Andrew
I would not be worried about dust and dirt falling into the cleaned out switches as they are quite obviously upside down.


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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Fri Oct 13, 2017 9:09 am

Datsundrew
You "blasted with contact cleaner" .......did you read the original how to article which advised greasing the springs and inside the holes and ends of the plastic plungers/V of the rocker copper so that they would slide easier? I have used silicone grease (plumbers supplier) silicone being long lasting, in the past.....another said use lithium grease (but did not explain why) Also have you smeared the contacts and studs with contact grease (special stuff designed for electrical contacts to help prevent the arching that causes the burns that then gives big resistance and causes worse burning)?

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Post by Datsundrew » Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:53 am

Are new ones available? No doubt I'll have to remortgage if they are!



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Post by scimjim » Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:03 am

twin position switches are (headlights, fans, fogs) - look for TR7. Not sure about single position switches such as hazards?


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Post by AJL Electronics » Sat Oct 14, 2017 7:12 am

Bear in mind that TR7 do not have the illumination window, but you can swap the new innards into the old housings.


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Post by gtcse8 » Sat Oct 14, 2017 11:32 am

I got LOTS of NOS BL switches that I pull apart to replace the old worn out components inside standard Scim switches, some TVR wedges used the same ones too.

As a result I got quite a lot of the outer unit to replace the Scim ones that have broken locating fingers and refuse to stay put.

Mark


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Post by Datsundrew » Sun Oct 15, 2017 7:53 pm

Thanks Dennis, yes I did, and I may well do, I just wanted to try to get things working quickly as most of the wiring has been disconnected or moved in some way. My stupidity as I assumed that things not working was due to me fiddling, and only after a lot of frustrating hours I realised that it was dodgy switches.



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Post by Datsundrew » Mon Oct 16, 2017 7:58 pm

A bit more sorted this afternoon, I've got all the dash gauges connected up and working! I got the alternator wiring made and connected up, so we now have charging. I ran it up to temperature and can confirm that the heater works very well and although the original fans aren't brilliant, they are quiet and as I've got a big matrixin the dash it doesn't need a lot of air to move the heat through the core. The temperature sender on the engine seems to match the gauge ok and it reads 90 as the thermostat opens and the radiator starts to do its job. I've not got a sensor to operate the cooling fan yet, not sure what I'll use yet, but I ran it until almost boiling and connected the fan who saw the temp drop quickly back to 90.
I'm using a volvo 850 fan, which moves a massive amount of air (and amps!) in the volvo this blows through the air con condensor and the radiator so has to be quite good.
Next job is to neaten up my wiring under the bonnet......it's a mess!



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Post by Datsundrew » Mon Oct 16, 2017 8:15 pm

I forgot to mention the dash warning (triumph based) thingy......
The left indicator warning was dim and the low fuel light didn't work, so I took the unit out and found 3 blackened bulbs, two blown and one working...that was the left indicator. The blown ones were the fuel light (surprise,surprise!) and the hand brake.
I tried to find bulbs, and ended up with a google search that led me search for Lilliput bulbs. Apparently they are used in dolls houses and train sets? Anyway a pack of 10 led ones are ordered, along with other dash bulbs too. I'm going all LED :D



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Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Oct 16, 2017 8:45 pm

Not the ignition lamp though, the alternator needs to have sufficient current through it. An LED may well stop it charging.
Last edited by AJL Electronics on Tue Oct 17, 2017 6:35 am, edited 1 time in total.


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Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Oct 16, 2017 9:09 pm

Also may be worth noting that there isn't in fact a specific "handbrake warning" as such. The two red lights at the bottom of the cluster are for brake pad wear and hydraulic fluid failure. When the handbrake is operated, it shorts out those two circuits to switch on the lights and prove that the warnings are still working. So they only have a secondary function as handbrake lights. So if one lights up when you're driving down the road, it probably doesn't just mean you've left your handbrake on, but something rather more serious! :wink: (though the brake pad wear light will only work for real, if you have pads with the warning sensor wires).


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Post by Datsundrew » Tue Oct 17, 2017 9:44 pm

Oh good call on the ignition light! That would have got me stumped as it would have lit up but not given the resistance as you said. I had an incident many years back with a datsun........3 alternators later, it was the bulb!



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Post by Datsundrew » Tue Oct 17, 2017 9:51 pm

I've not seen any wires for brake fluid failure, or pad sensors anywhere, I think they are long gone. There's a few wires behind the headlights going 'spare' though. Do you know where the wires from either come from, is it from the loom behind the lights!
Is the fluid failure a level sensor on the cap? Mines not got one.
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Post by ronnie » Tue Oct 17, 2017 9:57 pm

Look under the master cylinder and you'll see a 2-pin plug connection
Wires for the fluid reservoir should be close beside

Pad wires are either side near the x-member towers look for them on the loom coming out beside the wiper and also over the other side Black/White coloured

Enjoying the progress.........



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Post by Datsundrew » Tue Oct 17, 2017 11:41 pm

Thanks Ronnie! I'll have a look tomorrow.



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