Trunnions SE5A

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CarlosVanDango
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Trunnions SE5A

Post by CarlosVanDango » Sun Mar 31, 2019 9:28 pm

quick question guys

how is the lower trunnion held onto the front hub?

the brass part - has is got bushes in it or not?

there is play in mine thats all, i'm looking at replacing the brass part, is that what i need to do or will there be some other thing thats worn?

cheers :D



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Post by scimjim » Sun Mar 31, 2019 10:10 pm

It’s screwed onto the bottom of the upright. Is the play in the upright/trunnion threads or the lower wishbone bolt (the long one that passes through the trunnion)? If it’s the former, it could separate, putting your wheel into the wing.


Jim King

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Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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Trunnions SE5A

Post by CarlosVanDango » Sun Mar 31, 2019 10:39 pm

i think the play is in the upright - i'll have a closer look i was replacing the top ball joint as that is tight causing the steering to be heavy i only noticed the play after, the bottom is really free to turn

so its the brass part i need to replace?

seems a bit of a crap design :? whats the advantage of having it threaded?



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Post by scimjim » Sun Mar 31, 2019 10:59 pm

They get a hard rep when they need greasing regularly and are relatively expensive to replace (particularly the bespoke PAS trunnions) - but actually It might have been replaced once or twice in the cars life, making it maybe 10-25 years old - how long do balljoints last? Trunnions were only replaced by balljoints due to production costs,

It sounds like the brass trunnion needs replacing, it’s deliberately softer than the upright, so as soon as you find any slack you replace it before the upright gets damaged.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by CarlosVanDango » Sun Apr 07, 2019 11:08 am

well i got the new trunnion and fitted it on but there is still a bit of play :(

i can't help but think this would be much better converted to a bottom ball joints, i've read loz's thread on here where he has converted an SE6, thinking of a similar idea for this :idea:

anyone else converted to ball joints?



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Post by derekoss » Sun Apr 07, 2019 12:58 pm

I looked at going for ball joints but in the end renewed everything as standard. Then I added an automatic lubrication system.
Tapped the grease hole in the upright and fiitted 4mm nylon tube to an industrial lubricator. Every time the ignition is switched on around 2cc of my favoured (not getting in that!) lubricant gets pumped in. Important to seal the bottom of the trunnion with solder.
The tube could be terminated with a grease nipple for manual pumping.
Saves me crawling around !

Derek



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Trunnions SE5A

Post by scimjim » Sun Apr 07, 2019 1:07 pm

Define “much better” :D


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Trunnions SE5A

Post by willholderogri » Sun Apr 07, 2019 3:34 pm

derekoss wrote:
Sun Apr 07, 2019 12:58 pm
I looked at going for ball joints but in the end renewed everything as standard. Then I added an automatic lubrication system.can I have tech details please
Tapped the grease hole in the upright and fiitted 4mm nylon tube to an industrial lubricator. Every time the ignition is switched on around 2cc of my favoured (not getting in that!) lubricant gets pumped in. Important to seal the bottom of the trunnion with solder.
The tube could be terminated with a grease nipple for manual pumping.
Saves me crawling around !

Derek
any chance I could have some photos and tech details please


1962 mini, bedford CA , KR200. morris 1000, mini pickup.several escorts,ford grandad.ford cortina X2 ,astra, SE5A x 2 ,ford focus.

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Post by CarlosVanDango » Sun Apr 07, 2019 4:31 pm

scimjim wrote:
Sun Apr 07, 2019 1:07 pm
Define “much better” :D
cheaper for one :lol:

do any cars still have trunnions?

if you fit a common bolt on bottom ball joint you can replace it with an off the shelf new of for under £20 and a lot easier than messing with the trunnions



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Post by CarlosVanDango » Sun Apr 07, 2019 4:33 pm

willholderogri wrote:
Sun Apr 07, 2019 3:34 pm
derekoss wrote:
Sun Apr 07, 2019 12:58 pm
I looked at going for ball joints but in the end renewed everything as standard. Then I added an automatic lubrication system.can I have tech details please
Tapped the grease hole in the upright and fiitted 4mm nylon tube to an industrial lubricator. Every time the ignition is switched on around 2cc of my favoured (not getting in that!) lubricant gets pumped in. Important to seal the bottom of the trunnion with solder.
The tube could be terminated with a grease nipple for manual pumping.
Saves me crawling around !

Derek
any chance I could have some photos and tech details please
this though crossed my mind, well not the automatic lube system but piping all the grease nipples to an easily accessible manifold



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Trunnions SE5A

Post by scimjim » Sun Apr 07, 2019 6:57 pm

CarlosVanDango wrote:
Sun Apr 07, 2019 4:31 pm
scimjim wrote:
Sun Apr 07, 2019 1:07 pm
Define “much better” :D
cheaper for one :lol:

do any cars still have trunnions?

if you fit a common bolt on bottom ball joint you can replace it with an off the shelf new of for under £20 and a lot easier than messing with the trunnions
Cheaper rarely means better. The only real advantage is ease of replacement.

Balljoints May be cheaper in the short term (even including modification costs) - but certainly not long term. Balljoints (and their boots) just don’t last long compared to trunnions.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Trunnions SE5A

Post by CarlosVanDango » Sun Apr 07, 2019 7:27 pm

not so sure about that my scimitar's on 100k and the trunnions have worn out i did similar on a mk5 transit flareside and that was still on the original ball joints - just looked on ebay and they are £10
also the force on a transit one will be double that of a scimitar

cheaper is often just a case of mass production - something your never going to get with scimitar spares



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