Eureka Wire and Ignition

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Eric2205
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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by Eric2205 » Tue Sep 04, 2018 2:49 pm

Hello,

Since I have my Scimitar I have problems with the ignition coil that heats up too much. When it's hot the engine stops and I have to wait 15/20 minutes before I can start the engine again.
I decided to change the electronic ignition, the HT leads, the rotor arm, the distributor cap and the coil.

The supplier of all these parts tells me that the best is to remove the ballast / eureka wire.

My question is simple:
How to remove eureka wire from my ignition system?

Thank you for your answers



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scimjim
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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by scimjim » Tue Sep 04, 2018 6:06 pm

You can’t remove it very easily as it’s part of the main loom on a 5a. It isn’t “best” to remove it but if you want to convert to a non-ballast system you need the correct coil, disconnect the feed and replace with a 12v unfused supply (white) from the ignition switch.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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peter freeman
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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by peter freeman » Tue Sep 04, 2018 8:44 pm

The eureka wire/ballast resistor was put there for a reason and that reason is to improve the spark when starting - not need as much when you have a modern system - eg lumenition but it will do no harm, much needed when on the original points system as when churning the engine over the battery voltage drops to about 3/4 of the off load level - and that is when you have a good battery - a few years old and the battery cannot supply the same power. If you are determined to remove it then the easiest way is to run a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil - ( in parallel ) with the loom but you then also have to buy a 12v coil.



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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by philhoward » Tue Sep 04, 2018 9:04 pm

If it’s a later 5 or a 5a, then it’s a new wire from the tacho to the coil (unless you've changed to an RVC tacho).


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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by peter freeman » Tue Sep 04, 2018 10:09 pm

yes Phil I had forgot the tacho was first in line from the ignition switch to he coil as its a current tacho not a voltage one.



Eric2205
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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by Eric2205 » Wed Sep 05, 2018 8:00 am

Hello,

Thank you all for all this informations
I have the diagram of the electrical circuit of my Se5a and indeed the eureka wire is connected to the tacho.
I will also think of a coil compatible with a non ballasted ignition
I will tell you how it goes after the work



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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by Eric2205 » Wed Sep 05, 2018 9:22 am

I also noted that when the engine stalls after overheating the coil and I try to start the engine, the needle of the tacho moves and is positioned at maximum before returning to 0



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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by peter freeman » Wed Sep 05, 2018 9:50 am

The tacho should be bypassed when starting by the white/yellow ( 5A )( or plain white in the case of the 5 ) wire from the starter solenoid -so you need to sort that problem out.
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scimjim
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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by scimjim » Wed Sep 05, 2018 10:11 am

I wonder if you have a ballast coil but someone’s rewired it to get 12v? That could explain the startup spike and coil overheating?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Eric2205
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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by Eric2205 » Wed Sep 05, 2018 10:22 am

On my car I have a ballast ignition coil and when the engine is running I have about 7 volts



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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by scimjim » Wed Sep 05, 2018 10:45 am

That sounds very low?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by peter freeman » Wed Sep 05, 2018 11:00 am

Perhaps it has a eureka wire and a ballast resistor fitted



Eric2205
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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by Eric2205 » Wed Sep 05, 2018 1:37 pm

To be accurate the voltage at the coil terminal when the motor is running and between 6 and 7 volts
I have never analyzed the electrical circuit of the car ....



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Eureka Wire and Ignition

Post by Pepe » Wed Sep 12, 2018 8:09 pm

Is 7V really that low?
Isn't that normal with just Eureka/Ballast in place (no - not in series) when running?

I thought the ignition voltage is increased to Bat voltage only in starting case (which goes as low as 6-10V also durign cranking depending on Battery health) and about 7V would be normal during running in a ballasted system.. I never measured on mine though.


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