Grabbing a list together of "watch out areas" please gents

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demonbluedays
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Grabbing a list together of "watch out areas" please gents

Post by demonbluedays » Sun Jul 01, 2018 6:46 pm

Ok, so I'm going after a 5a...the o my 5a I've ever wanted that's still in existence...

Ok long story short I'm considering taking OAC and recomission ing her before she's too far gone to be worth looking at saving.

So far I know the glass hatch and tyres are in need of addressing as they're broke, and unknown quantity likely delaminating respectively.


The engine is known to start and run as I've heard her going.


But apart from needing the above and a good service with the brakes being gone over are there any major areas that would be a big watch out as in electrically or mechanically that may be a "just walk away" situation


I'm under no illusion this time it'll be a quick half day and dine as there is likely to be a few hidden gremlins lurking...Oh and the car may have a problem or two extra as well.

(I meant the kids are gremlins :mrgreen: )

But like I said I'd rather save this car as internally she's amazingly tidy, externally pretty decent, just under her skirt is the massive unknown until I look

Cheers in advance


Tom "DemonBlueDays" Williams

1976 SE6 #141 "Mighty"

2009 Fox "King"

Former Owner Of

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Formerly RSSOC #3185 - Must renew eventually....

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Grabbing a list together of "watch out areas" please gents

Post by Coupe Racing » Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:32 pm

At least budget for almost everything rubber
Suspension bushes
Water hoses
Brake hoses

Then brake discs and rear wheel cylinders


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Grabbing a list together of "watch out areas" please gents

Post by philhoward » Sun Jul 01, 2018 8:00 pm

I think that the situation you hope to be working in, I’d walk away if it needed chassis work. As CR says above, assume everything made of rubber needs replacing or rebuilding.

I’ll replay my advice from last time you asked and the same still applies - get one that’s on the road already (or just failed an MoT for known reasons). OAC has been off the road for nearly 10 years now? Stored outside? Assume the chassis will need some work as well as a full suspension, braking and cooling system overhaul.


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Grabbing a list together of "watch out areas" please gents

Post by reliant-reviver » Sun Jul 01, 2018 8:14 pm

Stop getting emotionally invested in money pits!

Go out and get a working car. There will be more than enough to tinker with in time.


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Post by demonbluedays » Sun Jul 01, 2018 9:37 pm

I've got someone that I work with in my pocket who's handy with a welder and owes more than a few favours from bailing his ar5e out at short notice otherwise I wouldn't even consider OAC as a viable candidate to keep me busy :wink: wasn't playing when I said I was coming back with more preparation under my belt

But further to that, "minor welding" wouldn't be a problem, I'd walk away from anything that would put me in the position of having to separate the body from chassis or something thats easy to get at but is an absolute ball ache to repair properly without a fully kitted mechanics cave or bodyshop jigs to ensure it was bang on.


All rubber bits, got it, fuel lines I know would be something I'd have to swap at least part of the system right away, but considering I'm swapping half I might as well go the full hog.

Speaking of that, glass bowl pump, if it's working leave it alone for now or save a job later swap it out?

Any suggestions with the water hoses? As in would silicone or another substitute material be a better swap than like for like?

As for the brakes I intended to swap pads discs shoes cylinders and possibly the drums as well, then look at the state of the brake lines and even the master cylinder and even if they seem ok maybe putting them in a spares bin for later review and swap for new anyway. It's amazing how many "older" bus drivers actually have spares for cars they've never owned sat in a garage or attic, still in their boxes or bags...from an engineer alone, if I press ahead I'll have the rear brakes and front pads for only 15 quid as he's unlikely to ever need them....and another has a full service kit for a 38dgas a year ago that he got in error and never returned, that's another 15ish quid saved there

Radiator, good one didn't think about that that may not have taken well to years of just sitting there. Again IF I push ahead I'll remove it for a look and then pop an ad in if required.

Interior parts, which bits am I going to find a headache to replace if they're beyond salvation? And would 6a seats fit a 5? As I'm not to sure if like those cobras in the long run, my VW has a similar "end" to the seat and after a while of driving it annoys me....


I know a working one is a better idea but, with Sarina now working every weekend and sleeping during the day...and I've got that age where Gaming after more the an hour or two has me bored, I want something that will keep me busy and interested. Having my current car throw some hissy fits from lack of use in it's 9 years of life has certainly punted me back in this direction as I'm pretty familiar with a lot of the cars internal workings these days.

I'm a lot calmer these days, well I have been for a few years now, I need some (mechanical) excitement in my life :lol:

I could well go look at it and decide that it's really been too long, in which case I'll big Terry H to sell me his, because I've always preferred the 6 to the 5.

We'll see anyway.

Oh gearbox....will that be a sticking point or no?


Tom "DemonBlueDays" Williams

1976 SE6 #141 "Mighty"

2009 Fox "King"

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Grabbing a list together of "watch out areas" please gents

Post by reliant-reviver » Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:56 am

Change of mind over this morning's coffee.
Go, haggle your mouth off. Buy it, bring it back, assess it.

If it's a heap of hateful, then punt it on.

Replacing stuff is always the easy option, often ailing parts can be coaxed back to life and made good. Usually at detriment to ultimate reliability, but break down covert is cheap and there are lots of lay-bys you wouldn't otherwise stop to enjoy.

Just answer this:
Do you have the space for this car, the parts and the tools. No more sagas of jacking cars on gravel or dumping them with local garages please.


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Grabbing a list together of "watch out areas" please gents

Post by philhoward » Mon Jul 02, 2018 8:04 am

Water hoses - don't bother with the rubber ones from the traders (the "Kevlar reinforced" ones last 12 months at best), go silicone. Either get creative with universal elbows and joiners or go with the pre-formed sets the traders now sell.

Fuel hoses - genuine Cohline or Gates. There's a lot of fake stuff (or downright dangerous non-branded hose) floating around eBay. AJL sells the best stuff around.


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Post by Nick » Mon Jul 02, 2018 8:11 am

R R is right. With the market value of scims you want the best car you can afford, you will always find plenty to do. Getting a road legal car ensures it is complete, and everything works after a fashion.

Body and chassis are the big costs followed by the interior. Mechanical bits generally the cheapest


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Post by Corky » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:01 am

Anything that’s been off the road for that long will be a nightmare and very expensive to recommission. Everything, yes everything will need some attention either major or minor. I speak from experience :wink:

Walk away. Wait until you can afford a runner with an MOT. It’ll be cheaper in the long run, believe me.


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Grabbing a list together of "watch out areas" please gents

Post by erikscimitardemon » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:28 am

The usual: "Buy the best you can afford" still applies :D

Just two options IMHO: get the cheapest as possible and do a full resto OR buy the best you can afford.


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Post by Coupe Racing » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:50 am

Don’t forget also

Any oil seal
Valve stem oil seals
Rotten exhaust
Core plugs
Engine mounts
Corroded electrical terminals


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Post by chrisgallacher » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:52 am

Corky wrote:
Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:01 am
Anything that’s been off the road for that long will be a nightmare and very expensive to recommission. Everything, yes everything will need some attention either major or minor. I speak from experience :wink:

Walk away. Wait until you can afford a runner with an MOT. It’ll be cheaper in the long run, believe me.
Wise words as always :)


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Post by Corky » Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:44 am

I don’t know about the ”as always” part Chris :lol:


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Post by chrisgallacher » Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:58 am

Corky wrote:
Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:44 am
I don’t know about the ”as always” part Chris :lol:
Too modest Mr C :lol:


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Post by MarkHawkins » Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:34 am

Get a complete running and driving car with sound chassis but tired paint. Run round in it, enjoy it and if you really like it (and there are no big faults) get it painted. A free car needing a full rebuild will be more expensive than a sound but tatty £2K runner.


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