Rear axle hubs

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Windy1
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Rear axle hubs

Post by Windy1 » Thu Nov 28, 2019 10:02 pm

Does anyone have a clue how to get the hubs off the half-shafts?

I need to sort the seals as they are leaking grease and contaminating the friction linings. It looks like someone has been there before in the past and failed as I have. Hub is dented from previous attempts with a big hammer! :evil:

I’ve tried heat with a hot air gun but it still won’t shift. And I’ve left a big puller on it tonight with plenty of lubricant in the joint in the hope that it’ll have fallen off tomorrow! :roll:
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Rear axle hubs

Post by peter freeman » Thu Nov 28, 2019 10:21 pm

My "bigger" puller fits on to the four wheel studs - you might end up taking it to a machine shop as it can take a few tons to get it off. A heat gun will do noting but sometimes a blow lamp will. Don't stand in front of it whatever you do as when it comes off it can do a lot of harm - kinetic energy and all that.



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Rear axle hubs

Post by gtcse8 » Fri Nov 29, 2019 8:36 am

Biggest problem with Leg pullers is they actually deform the casting and "Nip" it onto the taper and gib strip.

I have a large Disc puller with Four holes for the studs that clamps against the flat face of the hub and the jacking bolt presses directly onto the Nose of the shaft.
I have actually removed hubs by putting them under pressure and pouring boiling water over them.
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Some time ago I invested in a vertical 17t press, it`s never failed yet. :w
Good man, I see you have left the nut on, safe practice an all that. :wink:
Last edited by gtcse8 on Mon Dec 02, 2019 3:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Rear axle hubs

Post by AJL Electronics » Fri Nov 29, 2019 11:45 am

I had the same issues until I bought a 12T hydraulic puller. That has never failed me yet.


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Rear axle hubs

Post by Terry Rickard » Fri Nov 29, 2019 4:13 pm

With tension on, use a blunt cold chisel and a big hammer and strike the hub hard between the back plate and the back of the hub flange, at right-angles to the half-shaft.
If that doesn’t work, even with heat applied, then do as suggested above.



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Rear axle hubs

Post by Windy1 » Sat Nov 30, 2019 10:13 pm

Terry Rickard wrote:
Fri Nov 29, 2019 4:13 pm
With tension on, use a blunt cold chisel and a big hammer and strike the hub hard between the back plate and the back of the hub flange, at right-angles to the half-shaft.
If that doesn’t work, even with heat applied, then do as suggested above.
Well I have tried with 20 tons on it in the press whacking the hell out of the hub with a chisel and a FBH where you say and it still won’t shift. :evil:

This method works perfectly for track rod ends by the way, even without a ball joint splitter.

Might be resorting to the gas axe next but might not have a happy ending!



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Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Dec 01, 2019 9:37 am

There is a technique involved, but I assume you have sorted it now?


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Rear axle hubs

Post by David Tew » Sun Dec 01, 2019 10:16 am

gtcse8 wrote:
Fri Nov 29, 2019 8:36 am
I have a large Disc puller with Four holes for the studs that clamps against the flat face of the hub and the jacking bolt presses directly onto the Nose of the shaft.
A brilliant bit of kit, I borrowed exactly the same thing from a friend. I discovered that the best way was to fully tighten it, apply some heat and leave it for 30 minutes or so with the tension applied. I found I could then tighten it a little more .... and so on. Eventually it came off with a disappointingly quiet "pop".


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Rear axle hubs

Post by Windy1 » Sun Dec 01, 2019 10:48 pm

AJL Electronics wrote:
Sun Dec 01, 2019 9:37 am
There is a technique involved, but I assume you have sorted it now?
No still not sorted



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Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Dec 02, 2019 9:18 am

Windy1 wrote:
Sun Dec 01, 2019 10:48 pm
No still not sorted
Assuming that you have a decent hydraulic puller... Refit the nut flush with the end of the halfshaft before fitting the puller, making sure it is square. Pull it up with as much tension as you can, then wander off for ten minutes. Give the hub a good clout then try to wind it up some more. Rinse and repeat until you hear the bang.

N.B I have never been succesful with the "home made" tool, nor three legged pullers. I had one hub that had been impossible according to two garages, but I got it off.

This is what I use with a 10mm wheel spacer to ensure it is square... https://www.forcetools-kepmar.eu/WT-204 ... Hub-Puller


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Rear axle hubs

Post by derekoss » Mon Dec 02, 2019 10:38 am

Hi, you mentioned the gasaxe !
The secret with that on tapers of any kind is lots of heat fast. It's important to heat the hub from both sides if possible with a burner or super heating nozzle.
The idea is to get heat into the hub before it transfers to the shaft. Applying a number 2 welding nozzle will have no real effect. The whole thing will heat very slowly and evenly.
Now heat will still have an effect even all over because the expansion of the bigger part will be greater than the smaller but you'll have taken the temper out the shaft by then.
When the hub is too valuable and not readily sourced I've used molten lead. Now that transfers heat fast and you can use coal as your heat source !!
Good luck !
Derek



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Rear axle hubs

Post by Windy1 » Mon Dec 02, 2019 11:59 pm

Well my press obviously wasn’t big enough. I had 20 tons on the inner race in the end with an FBH on the outer O/D of the flange and commercial oxy acetylene with the hub almost to the point of glowing red and there was an almighty bang! The bang was loud enough that all the guys in the workshop turned round!



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Rear axle hubs

Post by Oldconn » Tue Dec 03, 2019 3:19 pm

So it's off? That sounds about normal to me. You will probably find there is an obvious high spot on the taper where the hub had been seized, you can rub that off with a strip of emery cloth;and re-assemble with a smear of copper slip . Some people will advise to re-assemble dry, but I reckon that's just inviting the same problem again.


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Rear axle hubs

Post by gtcse8 » Tue Dec 03, 2019 5:43 pm

Oldconn wrote:
Tue Dec 03, 2019 3:19 pm
Some people will advise to re-assemble dry, but I reckon that's just inviting the same problem again.
Never use a SOLIDS type of lubricant/anti seize measure on something like a taper fit.
I know there is a split pin to stop the nut coming off, but the radial loads when cornering will crush the copper solids far more than you can by tightening the nut.
The hub will then start to move around and will then bugger up both parts.

I have seen this a few times, much better to just use peroleum jelly. :wink:


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Rear axle hubs

Post by Windy1 » Thu Dec 05, 2019 7:17 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Tue Dec 03, 2019 5:43 pm
Oldconn wrote:
Tue Dec 03, 2019 3:19 pm
Some people will advise to re-assemble dry, but I reckon that's just inviting the same problem again.
Never use a SOLIDS type of lubricant/anti seize measure on something like a taper fit.
I know there is a split pin to stop the nut coming off, but the radial loads when cornering will crush the copper solids far more than you can by tightening the nut.
The hub will then start to move around and will then bugger up both parts.

I have seen this a few times, much better to just use peroleum jelly. :wink:
Cheers for the advice, makes sense to me.



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