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Post by scimjim » Tue Sep 12, 2017 1:35 pm

I think it would work but it worked fine for 30 years, why modify it if it's not to improve the system?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by gtcse8 » Tue Sep 12, 2017 1:55 pm

Hi Chris

Don`t have the module to dizzy connectors, just the Two connectors that come with the new unit.
You will have to remind me of your address as the clutch release bearings went straight to the garage.
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Post by DARK STAR » Tue Sep 12, 2017 7:08 pm

Jim, I don't like unnecessary complications and I have never been able to understand the logic of ballast resistors.
If it will work without, all the better.
Besides which, the eureka connection gives a reading of 12 volts so it probably doesn't work anyway :wink:

Mark, I think all six wires on mine go into the same connector ... I'll check that tomorrow.
Meantime Nigel is on holiday so I won't know until thursday if he has the loom and how many plugs there are on it :roll:


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Post by scimjim » Tue Sep 12, 2017 10:19 pm

DARK STAR wrote:
Tue Sep 12, 2017 7:08 pm
Jim, I don't like unnecessary complications and I have never been able to understand the logic of ballast resistors.
When cranking, your starter motor takes a huge amount of power - that drops the voltage the 12v coil sees, to around 9v.

If you fit a 9v coil and feed it 9v (through a ballast resistor) during normal running - it will see its full design voltage during starting.

If your car starts well on reduced voltage, then modifying it to remove the ballast/eureka probably won't harm it - I just can't see the point in modifying it for no perceivable gain.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by DARK STAR » Thu Sep 14, 2017 7:43 am

Right, there are two plugs, so your offer is on, Mark, I'll e-mail you later.
And on checking I find that I certainly need a new loom :roll:
Jim, my whole point is that I think it is better, and it's certainly simpler, to run the coil on 12v permanent.
I'm just concerned that the ignition module, which is after all a primitive engine management system, might take offence if it sees the coil always being fed 12v?
This is an urgent question as I want to order the coil ...
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Post by AJL Electronics » Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:14 am

Chris, don't try to re-invent the wheel. With your new bits, it is much simpler to keep it standard. It will also make future fault finding easier if everything complies with the wiring diagram. The ballast system is a good thing in general, so no good reason to delete it.


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Post by DARK STAR » Thu Sep 14, 2017 11:10 am

Ok ok, I concur even if I don't agree 8)
What if, as seems probable, my eureka wire is no longer a ballast resistor?
(see above "+ve from white wire and eureka wire still joined together not connected to coil, -ve direct battery = 12v")
As far as I can see, it is part of the loom which I am replacing - if Nigel replies - so why does everyone say it is difficult to find?
Anyway, I will now trawl the web to find a ballasted coil for transistorised ignition.


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Post by Oldconn » Thu Sep 14, 2017 2:59 pm

I think I can guess at your answer,Chris, but if you really really wanna I can send you a length of Eureka wire. :wink:


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Post by scimjim » Thu Sep 14, 2017 4:09 pm

It's not difficult to find - it's in the loom between duraspark and coil.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by DARK STAR » Thu Sep 14, 2017 5:28 pm

Yep, if I found it it can't be difficult :W
So I have a new one on its way from QRG, amongst other things.


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Post by DARK STAR » Sat Sep 16, 2017 5:35 pm

Waiting for the bits, I tried to remember where I was in my restoration project 8) .
There are in fact a few new jobs since I was attacked by a pavement at the services between Grenoble and Lyon last year.
But this impressive scratch must have happened on one of the transporter trips.
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Post by DARK STAR » Sat Sep 16, 2017 5:39 pm

First I looked at the bumper fixings because the nose was starting to droop alarmingly.
There weren't any.
Well only the end ones, nothing at all in the middle, so that wasn't my fault either.
Easily remedied as long as you don't mind working upside down in the spare wheel compartment.

Edit - photos are in reverse order, sorry!
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Post by DARK STAR » Sat Sep 16, 2017 5:48 pm

I had to find why one of the indicators didn't work.
'Bad earth' cries everyone, but no, one of the bullet connectors didn't.
Very simple to fix - and once again not my fault :lol:
I took the opportunity to overhaul both indicators, cleaning and painting - found an extra earth connection on the one that did work.
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Post by gtcse8 » Sun Sep 17, 2017 11:01 am

Chris there is not a central support plate on GTC, the three holes should have very large washers and bolts, nuts to clamp the skirt moulding.
Do you want a replacement indicator lens sending with the module??
I have about a dozen, including whole new units.
Mark


See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s, GTC, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Sep 17, 2017 11:22 am

gtcse8 wrote:
Sun Sep 17, 2017 11:01 am
Chris there is not a central support plate on GTC, the three holes should have very large washers and bolts, nuts to clamp the skirt moulding.
Have another look at the parts list Mark, there is an angled support plate bolted to the front of the subframe which takes the weight of the nose. It has captive nuts for those fixings to screw into.


Yes, we can mend your Scimitar!
Order your Scimitar parts any hour of the day at http://www.classicmicrocars.com (member's discounts).

Fancy a holiday in Gael, France? http://www.ianrhu.com

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