Fuel hose

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DARK STAR
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Fuel hose

Post by DARK STAR » Fri Sep 13, 2019 5:12 pm

I think brass and aluminium in the carb are ok, but your fuel tank will go rusty like mine :mrgreen:


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Post by old bean » Sat Sep 14, 2019 11:47 pm

AJL Electronics wrote:
Fri Sep 13, 2019 7:09 am
If you can show me a piece of Cohline supplied by me that has degraded due to any fuel, I will replace it no matter how old. It is fit and forget.
I wouldn't fit and forget Cohline fuel hose. I recently changed mine after 2 years due to slight hairline cracks in the outer rubber. I didn't buy it from you but it was genuine Cohline injection spec fuel hose.

Interestingly, I've seen OEM spec 30 year old rubber fuel hose still in fine condition with years of modern ethanol spec unleaded run through it. Including the original 1800ti rubber fuel hose as used between the fuel injection rail and the fuel injectors which on 99% of SS1s I'd bet is still factory standard rubber hose (including mine) and at 33 years old mine is still uncracked and holding fuel injection pressure petrol with no issues. Why can't such OEM quality rubber hose be re-manufactured and sold today? Because there is no profit in it and no reason to. When the manufacturers needed quality rubber fuel hose, it was made or sourced, but modern vehicles don't use it so it is now a purely low volume aftermarket part. Therefore, no need for real investment to achieve a certain OEM quality, just some old tat that will last for a year or so.

Goodyear do manufacture and sell a hose that suits pure ethanol though. Bio something or other its called, I can't remember but its hard to get in the UK as the closed UK market prefers to sell us sub standard shite stuff that lasts 12 months or so. Don't buy any of the Ebay R9 unbranded stuff either, it's just standard hose printed up in China and has no real rating or longevity. I purchased some from Advanced Fluid Solutions a few years ago and ended up ripping the whole lot out in less than 12 months as it all cracked and revealed itself to be absolute junk. I should have reported them to trading standards..Gits... Still reading?

From what I've experienced of modern fuel injection spec (or carb spec on my other wheels) you'd be better off cutting OEM lengths of hose out of cars at the scrap yard and using those lengths for what you need than buying most (up to) R9 spec (R10 is just submersible). Saying that, my Goodyear Bio Force or what ever its called R9 spec injection hose seems to be holding well after 1+ year, keeping up with my Nissan fuel injection rail to injectors 33 year old OEM rubber hose.

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Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Sep 15, 2019 9:14 am

You need to compare apples with apples. I am not talking about "injection rated" hose, it is the Cohline Biohose that I sell and stand by. It's specification exceeds anything by Goodyear, although I gather they are trying to catch up. Cohline is OEM to many premium German marques, so I think I would also trust their judgement!

Once again, show me a piece of Cohline Biohose I supplied that has degraded due to biofuels and I will replace it regardless of how old it is.


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Post by myredscimitar » Sun Sep 15, 2019 10:29 am

I'm still not convinced that it's the ethanol content that is causing the problem. Over the ten or so years I have had my SS1s I think I have replaced most of the rubber hose twice ( the last time earlier this year with AJL Cohline )

I have only once had an actual fuel leak, that was in the very early days before I realised there was a potential problem.

Since then I have replaced hose when it shows signs of external cracking. To my mind if the fuel is degrading the rubber I would expect the deterioration to start from the inside of the hose and work its way out. By the point surface cracks appear fuel would be leaking rapidly.
I have found instances of hose with bad external cracks that was still holding petrol in.
My experience suggests the hose degrades from the outside.

Not sure what other mechanism could be responsible though. Vibration, temperature, routing????

Is it my memory or does this problem affect SS1s more than GTEs??

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Post by derekoss » Sun Sep 15, 2019 11:59 am

Fit PTFE and be done with it !

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Post by ard126k » Mon Sep 16, 2019 5:51 pm

Or use this kit http://www.ethanil.co.uk/I'm not sure if it's not a joke?


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Post by DARK STAR » Mon Sep 16, 2019 6:04 pm

Scientifically sound, and their site explains why the effects are so serious in cars that don't move much :|
However, it must be bit of a bind to process the petrol and fill your tank 1 litre at a time ...


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Post by TrevorG » Mon Sep 16, 2019 6:47 pm

Yeah.....we could all do this!!!!

Taken from their site....

How does the Ethanil® Kit work?

Ethanol has an affinity for water, so when water is drawn from the atmosphere into your classic car or bike fuel tank, it bonds to the ethanol. Once the ethanol has absorbed sufficient water, it will separate from the petrol and settle at the bottom of the tank, a process known as phase separation. The water/ethanol mix forms a weak acid that can cause corrosion and other problems.

The Ethanil®Separator exploits ethanol’s affinity for water and uses it to our advantage. Mixing the prescribed amount of water and petrol in the Ethanil® Separator absorbs the ethanol from the petrol, which just like in a fuel tank, settles as a mixture at the bottom. However, unlike a fuel tank, the water/ethanol mix can be easily removed thanks to the ingenious push-button tap on the Separator.

The volume of water/ethanol mix removed in the Ethanil® process will be greater than the amount of water you started with because it contains the removed ethanol. The initial percentage of ethanol in the petrol can be easily read off the measuring bottle provided in the Ethanil® kit, which has markers to indicate the volume equivalent to 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% and 5% of ethanol.

Of course, you don’t have to buy an Ethanil® kit to remove ethanol from petrol, but because the components in the kit have been carefully sourced specifically for this process, the Ethanil® process is significantly easier and safer than other ‘home-grown’ options.



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Post by scimjim » Mon Sep 16, 2019 7:16 pm

I seem to remember writing this last month in another thread?
scimjim wrote:
Thu Aug 29, 2019 2:02 pm
I read that if you add water to your fuel, agitate it then let it settle, then siphon off the “water” that settles at the bottom, it will take most of the ethanol with it. Is that true or is it chemically bonded to the fuel and not that simple to separate?

Actually, I know a cabinet maker who’s an ex chemical engineer, that I could ask :D


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Post by philhoward » Mon Sep 16, 2019 8:50 pm

Used to work in the tank of the Scimega - extract the litre or two of “milk” that sat it the bottom of the tank every year. For reference that was a plastic tank. Used to kill the submerses fuel pumps too..


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Post by Ford » Mon Sep 16, 2019 10:41 pm

scimjim wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 7:16 pm
I seem to remember writing this last month in another thread?
scimjim wrote:
Thu Aug 29, 2019 2:02 pm
I read that if you add water to your fuel, agitate it then let it settle, then siphon off the “water” that settles at the bottom, it will take most of the ethanol with it. Is that true or is it chemically bonded to the fuel and not that simple to separate?

Actually, I know a cabinet maker who’s an ex chemical engineer, that I could ask :D
I've done that for a few years with petrol I use in motorbikes, works very well. I wouldn't fancy doing it with more than a few gallons though.


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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Sep 18, 2019 3:39 pm

myredscimitar wrote:
Sun Sep 15, 2019 10:29 am
Is it my memory or does this problem affect SS1s more than GTEs??
I think SS1s are over-represented in the complaints because firstly the original rubber hose they used (the shiny black rubber type) was such cr*p (been there, etc...), and secondly due to the fact that all Tis and K series cars have injected systems, which run at higher pressure, so are more susceptible to leaks due to pipework issues.

Over the years , like you, I've had to replace a lot of fuel hose, but not yet any of the cohline biohose.


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Post by scimjim » Wed Sep 18, 2019 3:45 pm

myredscimitar wrote:
Sun Sep 15, 2019 10:29 am
Is it my memory or does this problem affect SS1s more than GTEs??
I've had cracking and internal collapsing of rubber fuel lines on 8 Ball and the 6b TaNK.


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Post by JoeySully » Wed Sep 18, 2019 4:01 pm

I had it in my e36 BMW a few years ago after i replaced the OEM stuff with what some rubbish from the motor factor, was probably coolant hose and not fuel hose at all. Return line burst driving along at 120km down the motorway, didn't feel it but I saw my fuel gauge drop from 1/4 full to empty in a couple of miles. leak was right under my seat so didn't smell anything.



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Post by ard126k » Tue Oct 08, 2019 5:26 pm

So all the cars have had their hoses replaced and the only ones that showed any cracks were ones without any fabric mesh moulded into the rubber. Coincidence??
Alex.


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