QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

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Rev Light
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QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

Post by Rev Light » Mon Jul 01, 2019 8:26 am

I have recently bee repairing cracks in my doors where the window frame exits the main door moulding, using fibre-glass. When I first acquired the car, I replaced the door seals with some new ones source from QRG (over a year ago, possibly 2). They seem to be too big and are putting too much sideways pressure on the top of the door moulding causing the cracking. A recent repair has failed a second time, after only a couple of weeks.

Are there any other available with a more moderate moulding?

Steve


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QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

Post by scimmy_man » Mon Jul 01, 2019 8:52 am

it sounds like your repair has failed?
did you adjust the door fit for the new seals.


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QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

Post by Rev Light » Mon Jul 01, 2019 9:24 am

Obviously not. But it might be an idea. But you know how it is with 44 year old nuts and bolts. The undoing and still having something that can be done up again is always the issue. But the outside of the door is generally flush so that is a concern.

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QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

Post by drcdb15 » Mon Jul 01, 2019 11:23 am

Just a couple of points: first, are we to assume that the car had the original seals still, before you changed them? Second, as seal materials have changed over the years, so have the seal compression characteristics. And it is known that club suppliers do not always supply a seal today that is the same as was originally specified by Reliant.

If you had the original seals and the door has been progressively set in to accomodate compression of the seal then fitting a new seal without moving the door outwards is highly likely to give problems. Key question is, after fitting the new seals, did you have to slam the door like mad to get it to close? If you did, then you might need to re-hang the door, or you might be lucky and get away with just adjusting the latch position on the B pillar, which is MUCH simpler.

Another alternative is to talk with Woolies or other seal supplier. I've spent a while recently replacing the seal on my rear hatch, and found Woolies most helpful. After my intial discussion, I sent them a 50mm section of the old seal. They sent back a couple of cards of samples they felt would be appropriate, for me to try. The photos show this - guess which section is my old one ? :lol:

Regardless of what the original specification might be, if you want to avoid moving the doors you need a new seal to fit the existing gap, and Woolies can offer you a range of samples to try. You are not limited by the original profile. A lot of early profiles had a flap, whilst today tubes are far more common - though the flap style is more compressible all else equal as there is less thickness of rubber to accomodate (crudely, only half as much as a tube).

Having also had door closure issues on my car, I would strongly recommend you try experimenting with the door latch first (if you haven't already -sucking eggs etc )
Rear seal 002.JPG
Rear seal 002.JPG (165.75 KiB) Viewed 842 times
Rear seal 008.JPG
Rear seal 008.JPG (190.18 KiB) Viewed 842 times
Rear seal 016.JPG
Rear seal 016.JPG (189.12 KiB) Viewed 842 times


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QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

Post by drcdb15 » Mon Jul 01, 2019 11:33 am

Another option in terms of getting a seal to fit the existing gap is to make up a composite. This is what I have done with my hatch. The first seal is a Woolies 402, which edges the bodywork and holds the interior trim, and then a 363 D-tube is added on top of this, to keep the rain out. This profile is shown in pic 016 of my previous post.
006.JPG
006.JPG (217.38 KiB) Viewed 839 times


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Post by Rev Light » Mon Jul 01, 2019 12:01 pm

Thanks Chris,

What I might do in the short term is to take a pair of sharp scissors and cut the existing seal so that there is just a flap as opposed to a tube.

The doors are pretty much flush with the car body and I would not want them sticking out, so I assume they are correct. And yes, I have to slam the door - pretty much since I had the car.

Once I get it right I will look for a new seal based on the hatchet job I will have just created.


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Post by drcdb15 » Mon Jul 01, 2019 12:20 pm

MB61 had a problem driver's door when I got the car. A PO had fudged blu-tack and other gunk around the top rear corner to try to eliminate wind noise, and it was obvious the door was not well-aligned - cf the passenger side, that just swung gently closed and everything clicked into place. When I finally got round to looking at the driver's door, first I dropped the window glass and slackened off all the bolts I could ( there was one I couldn't get to) holding the frame into the door. With the frame 'out of the way', I concentrated on getting the GRP door itself to the best fit and proper closing I could. Then I worked on the frame, to get it best fit to the car bodywork whilst still retaining the closing/fit of the main door. I hadn't changed any seals in all of this, but that doesn't change the procedure of course. Then the car went to Dave Speed (who knew what I'd done) and of course he took the door off completely (though I don't think he 'separated' the door from the frame). When the car was done, Dave had got a bit better alignment than I'd managed, because obviously he had had the hinges apart which I hadn't attempted. But still it required a pretty hefty slam to get the door to close fully. All I did then was was to slacken off the latch about 1 or 2 mm, only a very slight amount, but it made a world of difference in closing. It will never be as good as the passenger door, and I suspect there is some distortion to the frame from a shunt somewhere in the car's past, but at least now the door closes with a respectable thud using only gentle pressure.


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QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Jul 01, 2019 2:21 pm

Worth noting that the original rear hatch body seal on the Se6a at least, was a flap-type seal, not a tube. A search on here should reveal a number of threads about it. I can't comment about 5 series door seals I'm afraid.


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QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

Post by drcdb15 » Mon Jul 01, 2019 5:56 pm

Roger Pennington wrote:
Mon Jul 01, 2019 2:21 pm
Worth noting that the original rear hatch body seal on the Se6a at least, was a flap-type seal, not a tube. A search on here should reveal a number of threads about it. I can't comment about 5 series door seals I'm afraid.
Per the threads cited, the Woolies hatch seal is their 265A, and Roger you did advise previously [viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32025] that it was also used on the SE5x. Taking your advice, 265A was one of the samples I requested from Woolies, and you can see it in picture 008 in my post earlier in the thread.

Here's the 265A sample fitted to my car:
Rear seal 015.JPG
Rear seal 015.JPG (183.97 KiB) Viewed 725 times
Rear seal 014.JPG
Rear seal 014.JPG (197.51 KiB) Viewed 725 times
My particular issue is that the 265A is specified to fit a 3mm edge at most, and the GRP bodywork alone is that. When you add the interior trim panels (on MB, can't say for SE5) you are around 6mm and upwards, so these thinner channels are seriously spread if they're fitted deeply enough, and then don't grip very well as a result. As you can see, the edges of the interior trim panels on my car have been quite badly damaged in places due to poorly fitted seals, so I needed something other than the standard choice. This may not be relevant for most of the seat of a door seal for the OP, but there are areas such as the A pillars and the top where you have trim, headlining etc and a bit of extra width or depth capacity might be useful. Hence the advantage of making a composite seal - trying to get all of the functionality in a single profile may not be possible, but the chances of achieving this are better if you use a combination.


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QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

Post by justfur » Mon Jul 01, 2019 11:14 pm

Having bought some QRG seals, which were not a good fit, I went with tractor door draught excluder for 6mm panel thickness.

https://www.qtponline.com/products/rubb ... ,1094,2532

Or https://www.malpasonline.co.uk/itm/Trac ... r-1M/10177

10m will do both doors and boot.


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QRG door seals ad splitting doors.

Post by willholderogri » Tue Jul 02, 2019 12:08 pm

Just done mine with the seals off a modern scrap car Peugeot I think. Cost was zero and they fit well, much better than the ford escort ones I had previously.


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