Engine Rebuild Novice

Discuss and exchange views and technical information about our cars.

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IanC
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Engine Rebuild Novice

Post by IanC » Fri May 24, 2019 3:28 pm

this helpful diagram shows the additional red and white wires from the starter inhibit on an auto car, but does anyone know where the wires physically join the starter (if in fact they do)? The wiring on the car is a bit of a jumble in the vicinity of the starter with repairs apparently made with whatever colour was to hand so it's taking a bit of sorting! Having said that, I'm hopefully o the home straight now (famous last words)!


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Post by gtcse8 » Fri May 24, 2019 6:42 pm

Plugs into the Reverse Inhibitor switch on the Left of the auto box, just behind the bellhousing.


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Post by IanC » Sun May 26, 2019 11:22 am

The unexpected issues are coming thick and fast now that I've got the engine back in, battery, ball joints, brakes, shocks and now the carburettor. All surmountable if unwelcome, but the carb issue is a weird one.
I noticed the sector wheels on the back only went to halfway. After a bit of persuasion they went to a full quarter turn and then stuck, leaving the butterflies in the fully open position :shock: What is happening is that the accelerator diaphragm is difficult to move, and the cam is jamming against the operating lever. Swapping the diaphragm for another (old) one cures the issue, but I can't figure out what's going wrong. The only difference I can see is that the 'good' diaphragm's telescoping bit is lightly sprung, whereas the troublesome one's telescope bit is very firmly sprung. It isn't sticky or jammed, it just takes a real push to overcome the tension of the internal spring.
The photos show the cam, operating lever and diaphragm in the 'problem' position, plus another one showing how the carb can stick open.
The carb in the photo is an old one which gave up its diaphragm to cure the carb on the car, but the problem has now been transferred to the old carb along with the newer, possibly faulty diaphragm.
Any thoughts?
Attachments
IMG_20190526_105141.jpg
carb jammed open
IMG_20190526_105141.jpg (185.36 KiB) Viewed 1117 times
IMG_20190526_104807.jpg
Cam lever and diaphragm
IMG_20190526_104807.jpg (192.3 KiB) Viewed 1117 times


Current : SE5a 4spd auto
Past: SE5, SE5a x 3, GTC x 3, SE6, SE6a

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Post by IanC » Tue May 28, 2019 10:04 am

Being a bit of a PITA here, but yet another question, this time concerning the gearbox, an A4LD unit with C3 T/C and cable kickdown. I've reconnected the cable at the same setting as it was left by the PO, but this restricts the operation of the carb to half way opening. The reason for this is the K/D lever on the box has only 1 cm. travel of arc at the top of the lever. I know it's not a C3 box, but when i have adjusted a cable on one, IIRC the lever had a very significant sweep of travel.
If anyone has experience of working on A4LD boxes, could they advise if this short travel is normal and the cable must be adjusted to suit, or is there a problem?
Thanks in advance,
Ian
Last edited by IanC on Wed Jul 17, 2019 10:38 am, edited 2 times in total.


Current : SE5a 4spd auto
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Post by IanC » Sat Jun 15, 2019 1:45 pm

IanC wrote:
Sun May 26, 2019 11:22 am

The carb in the photo is an old one which gave up its diaphragm to cure the carb on the car, but the problem has now been transferred to the old carb along with the newer, possibly faulty diaphragm.
Any thoughts?
Answering my own question here for anyone that's interested, the diaphragms on both were past their sell by date and the only reason the older one allowed the actuating arm to move, was because it was torn. I'm sure you can guess how I found out...


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Post by IanC » Wed Jun 26, 2019 12:08 pm

OSM 205M is finally moving under its own steam and on the road, after 4 months of steep learning curves. It's a pleasant change to have an auto Scimitar doing over 50 at 2000 rpm rather than the more usual 40ish. Having said that, the gearbox is incontinent front and back, so I'm not finished yet...but many thanks to all who have answered my incessant questions and volunteered advice, I'd have been stuck otherwise.
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Post by IanC » Wed Jul 17, 2019 10:39 am

IanC wrote:
Tue May 28, 2019 10:04 am
Being a bit of a PITA here, but yet another question, this time concerning the gearbox, an A4LD unit with C3 T/C and cable kickdown. I've reconnected the cable at the same setting as it was left by the PO, but this restricts the operation of the carb to half way opening. The reason for this is the K/D lever on the box has only 1 cm. travel of arc at the top of the lever. I know it's not a C3 box, but when i have adjusted a cable on one, IIRC the lever had a very significant sweep of travel.
If anyone has experience of working on A4LD boxes, could they advise if this short travel is normal and the cable must be adjusted to suit, or is there a problem?
Thanks in advance,
Ian
And the answer is...it's still a mystery. I've been able to confirm that the kickdown lever on the box does only travel a short distance, so the cable setting as left by the PO could never have given the right operation. I drilled a new hole nearer the pivot point on the operating lever at the carb end, shortening the travel to match the available movement at the gearbox end. I now have correct operation of the carb, and kickdown. Happy days! as Edd would say.
P.S. I hate mysteries...


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Post by IanC » Sun Aug 25, 2019 4:18 pm

The car is running well, but a minor concern is that after the thermostat is open the temp gauge reading slowly climbs to 90 then the fan kicks in after about 15 miles (if not doing above 30ish). I realise that it's pretty warm weather currently , and the engine may well be 'tight' with all new bearings/rings and may tend to run a bit warm, however I'm not too keen on this scenario. The radiator hasn't done many miles since being re-cored, but I'm concerned that it may be a bit clogged (and the block too) after sitting for 5 or 6 years out of the car.
It probably wouldn't do any harm to do an engine/rad flush, and the steradent and cola method appeals. However one thing I can't find the answer to on the forum is , does one just put the potion in and wait a bit, or should the engine be run / car be driven about to let the stuff do its work?


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Post by Crowther » Sun Aug 25, 2019 5:05 pm

I ran the engine on the drive to pump the potion around and it did no harm as far as I know. Make sure your hose connections are tight - I got an arc of steaming hot ASDA cola to the face.


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Post by IanC » Sun Aug 25, 2019 5:21 pm

Right, I'll do that then. I'm guessing steaming hot Tesco cola is just as nasty so ill be careful with the hoses :) did the potion work btw?


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Post by Crowther » Sun Aug 25, 2019 5:33 pm

It got a lot of crud and silt out and the cooling system has been healthy ever since.


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Post by IanC » Sun Aug 25, 2019 5:41 pm

That's good to hear, here's hoping i get similar results.


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Post by scimjim » Sun Aug 25, 2019 9:06 pm

IanC wrote:
Sun Aug 25, 2019 4:18 pm
a minor concern is that after the thermostat is open the temp gauge reading slowly climbs to 90 then the fan kicks in after about 15 miles (if not doing above 30ish).
sounds perfectly normal to me? How long does the fan stay on/off? What does it indicate when you’re moving at a decent speed?


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Post by IanC » Mon Aug 26, 2019 12:15 pm

Hi Jim, when the fan comes on, it cycles on and off say 30 seconds on and a couple on minutes off. My slight concern is that it'll come on even if I don't stop, i.e. it'll come on if I'm travelling not particularly quickly.For example today I drove around some back lanes at 35 -45 and the fan eventually came on when the speed dropped to 30. I had always thought that the conventional wisdom was that a fan shouldn't really have to come on unless you stopped moving. Certainly that's been the case with previous scimitars.


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Post by scimjim » Mon Aug 26, 2019 2:25 pm

In this heat, it’ll come on at low speeds - there’s just not enough cold airflow across the rad or “pull” from underbonnet pressure.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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