Not exactly a bright spark.

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gordonmc
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Not exactly a bright spark.

Post by gordonmc » Wed Apr 04, 2018 11:43 am

Ok.
I confess.
It was me.
The car was running sweetly before I decided to tidy up the engine bay.
I took the wiper motor off and before removing the coil I took a pic to remind me what went where. I also labelled the leads to various terminals:
20180324_142422.jpg
20180324_142422.jpg (174.04 KiB) Viewed 710 times
On putting everything back together, no spark.
There are volts at each of the low tension coil and ballast resistor terminals with the ignition on (is that right?).
I have not checked volts with the engine turning
The engine turns over healthily on the key, but no spark on the king-HT lead according to my strobe.
Anyone with any test tips? What Volts should I expect at the respective coil and ballast resistor terminals?
The car is a '76 SE6a with Lucas electronic ignition which was not touched.



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peter freeman
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Post by peter freeman » Wed Apr 04, 2018 11:56 am

Sorry I cannot make out the wire colours on your photo - the voltage you expect to see depends on the position of the dizzy rotor but the following drawings may help you.
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ignition.jpg
ignition.jpg (62.51 KiB) Viewed 700 times



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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:06 pm

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say the ring terminal with a black wire might be needed to be earthed (originally bolted to the wiper motor per chance?) for the electronic ignition.

Do the 3 wires in the black sleeve (right hand side of the pic) go to the electronic ignition? If so, that would be my starter for 10.


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Roger Pennington
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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:19 pm

It's not clear whether the photo is "how things were" or "how they are now", but I'd agree with Phil that my Lumenition has an earth lead, and if it's disconnected, it's no go........


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Post by scmarf » Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:42 pm

Is this standard for SE6a? My ballast resistor is bolted remotely to the side of the engine bay. Under normal running conditions it provides a resistance to current reaching the coil - thus, it produces heat. Given that most people worry about keeping their coils cool, it seems strange to bolt it on to the top of the coil. No idea how much heat it produces mind you. :?:


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Roger Pennington
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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:59 pm

scmarf wrote:
Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:42 pm
Is this standard for SE6a? My ballast resistor is bolted remotely to the side of the engine bay.
Yes, AFAIK the *mounted on the inner wing next to the wiper motor" is the standard arrangement - I'd guess that the one in the picture was bought as a coil-and-ballast combined package? The ballast does get quite warm, whether enough to affect the coil, I don't know?


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scimjim
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Post by scimjim » Wed Apr 04, 2018 2:08 pm

As Peter says, we can't see the wiring colours from your pic - but I'm pretty sure the two "Ford" plugs (male one clipped to the inner wing next to the coil and the female one on the coil) should be connected together?


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Post by gordonmc » Wed Apr 04, 2018 5:05 pm

Thanks for your observations. Much appreciated.
philhoward wrote:
Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:06 pm
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say the ring terminal with a black wire might be needed to be earthed (originally bolted to the wiper motor per chance?) for the electronic ignition.
The ring terminal did go to an earth strap on the wiper body. The pic was taken after the wiper was removed but before anything on the coil/ballast resistor was touched. I will try the ring terminal on a direct earth to see if that makes any odds.
scmarf wrote:
Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:42 pm
Is this standard for SE6a? My ballast resistor is bolted remotely to the side of the engine bay.
The BR was mounted as you suggest. Some time ago I experienced problems with a previous coil failing when hot. I bought this set-up to eliminate any new coil incompatibility with a ballasted system. Since I fitted the coil/BR combo it has been running fine... until a few days ago.
scimjim wrote:
Wed Apr 04, 2018 2:08 pm
As Peter says, we can't see the wiring colours from your pic - but I'm pretty sure the two "Ford" plugs (male one clipped to the inner wing next to the coil and the female one on the coil) should be connected together?
A sensible suggestion, thanks, but the male one has been clipped there since I got the car. If it is of any help the female one is on the + coil terminal.
I think the next step is to get a helper to turn over the engine and note volts on all terminals and report back.



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Post by philhoward » Wed Apr 04, 2018 5:09 pm

gordonmc wrote:
Wed Apr 04, 2018 5:05 pm
Thanks for your observations. Much appreciated.
philhoward wrote:
Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:06 pm
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say the ring terminal with a black wire might be needed to be earthed (originally bolted to the wiper motor per chance?) for the electronic ignition.
The ring terminal did go to an earth strap on the wiper body. The pic was taken after the wiper was removed but before anything on the coil/ballast resistor was touched. I will try the ring terminal on a direct earth to see if that makes any odds.
I suspect that once connected to a good earth again that normal service will resume.


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Post by gordonmc » Wed Apr 04, 2018 5:12 pm

To clarify, the earth ring was reattached to the wiper body when I put everything back together.



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Post by philhoward » Wed Apr 04, 2018 5:21 pm

Wiper body is earth - from memory there's a little jumper cable from the plug (or socket) that goes to a fork terminal that goes under one of the cover screws to provide this (which is what the earth braid from the bonnet hinge uses as well)?


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Post by gordonmc » Mon May 21, 2018 10:11 am

To close the loop on this, problem solved.
In the last few weeks I have been concentrating on launching my boat so the Scimitar has been neglected. I just pretended it wasn't in the garage as I dragged out sails, outboards and the rest.
Anyway, the boat is now on its mooring so I turned to the car once more.
It was a process of elimination. I replaced the ballast resistor and the coil. No difference.
The only element left was the Lucas electronic ignition module/distributor gubbins. So I invested in a replacement Accuspark kit.
Out went the two looms for the Lucas, plus the distributor sensor and amplifier module and in went the accuspark with just two wires to the coil.
Instant success.
The timing was a bit out but once that was sorted I had a running motor.
I can only surmise that the Lucas kit failed coincidentally . Looking back in the service records it was fitted in the late 90s so it was probably nearing the end of its natural.
Thanks for advice earlier.



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