Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by peter freeman » Mon Sep 19, 2016 6:32 pm

Only about 12" in the GTC.



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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by scimjim » Mon Sep 19, 2016 9:18 pm

toomanysabres wrote:
scimjim wrote:
parf70 wrote:By the amount of heat being kicked out by the ballast resistor I'd be concerned about having the eureka wire buried in the loom too!!
presumably you're comparing a 3" resistor in a ceramic block to a 6' piece of wire?
Try 61" of eureka wire or 12' including the white bits of normal. :mrgreen: And if I'm not mistaken separately wrapped on the surface of the main bundle. Well it was on one harness I saw. It could dissipate heat better that way.
not bad for a guess then :-)

I've never seen a 5 series eureka wire fail but I've seen loads of 6 series ballast resistors fall apart and had one GTC eureka wire fail.


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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by peter freeman » Mon Sep 19, 2016 9:39 pm

I think ballast resistor failure is down to rust in many cases.



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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by Ollieoldbeard » Thu Jan 19, 2017 8:33 pm

What is the "eureka wire" ?



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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by peter freeman » Thu Jan 19, 2017 8:56 pm

Its the resistor but not in one piece but "stretched" out - resistance wire - a bit like a electric bar wire but it does not get as hot - obviously.



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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by tony.idle » Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:20 pm

Ollieoldbeard wrote:What is the "eureka wire" ?
It's an abbreviation of the 'Eureka - I've found it' wire.


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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by Ollieoldbeard » Mon Jan 30, 2017 5:48 pm

i see (i think) ta !



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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by Landy109s2a » Sat Jul 08, 2017 8:45 pm

Over the years i found that Ballast resistors are more trouble than they are worth. Poor starting on the SE5 and Jensen in the past. Problem solved by removing the resistor, and fitting a standard 12v
coil.Never had a problem with starting afterwards. Just converted the SE6 to standard coil.



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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by scimjim » Sat Jul 08, 2017 9:53 pm

The SE5 doesn't have a ballast resistor?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by Landy109s2a » Sun Jul 09, 2017 10:02 am

Hi scimjim, there was one fitted on my old 5. Could have been fitted by a previous owner when the car was rewired in the engine bay with new fuse box's, and other electrical work.



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Re: Old chestnut - Poor starting? Ballast resistor bypass!

Post by derekoss » Sun Jul 09, 2017 10:45 am

I use a Velleman ignition kit K2543 at twelve quid and replace the ballast nonsense. Okay you have to build it yourself. Takes about an hour with a soldering iron.
The benefit being you keep the points. Switching almost no current the contact faces last a lot longer. Can't really see any effect on them after 10k.

You can also keep the condenser in the distributor, albeit disconnected, and be back to normal 12v ignition in five minutes should you suspect the Velleman.
I just built two kits and with a plug changeover have redundancy. Never required it !

Derek



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