Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

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Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

Post by Kccv23highliftcam » Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:09 pm

Evening all.
Just a wee question for you all, those who have fordy based vehicles of that era has anybody successfully had a duplicate key cut?
It seems that time is catching up on those with these items. Modern key cutters, and I have tried several today in the city, are lost as computer says no.
I don't have any problems at the minute but a spare key would be nice to have for the future.
So any ideas folks?

Cheers.


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Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

Post by scimjim » Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:29 pm

I have a feeling the Ford Chubb keys of that era needed a special machine to cut new ones? I couldn’t find anywhere when I lived in Germany for my RST so I got a full set of NOS locks and 2 new keys on eBay for about £50 (but that was 15 years ago :D )

Edit - just looked and you can get a set for some cars for £25 delivered - like this


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Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:41 pm



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Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

Post by demonbluedays » Thu Jan 10, 2019 12:48 am

Blanks have been readily available for years.

Cutters are also still widely used today for both types of lock (Standard double Cylinder and the Tibbe key that's started to fall out of general use with ford but still used by Jaguar)

Your biggest problem is going to be state of the key your cutting a blank from, the smoother the key feels, the harder it's going to be, as the key and lock will have worn heavily, my 6a had extremely heavily worn locks and a spare set that I had cut took a lot of tweaking to operate reliably.

Alternative option is to have keys cut to the barrel code if it's still legible on one of the locks.

Final option is get a locksmith to insert a reader into the cylinder itself so they can "read" the pins and cut from that.

Any problems give me a heads up, I'll be able to point you in the right direction.


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Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

Post by TrevorG » Thu Jan 10, 2019 7:55 am

I put a lead on here a few months back to a company supplying coded blanks and cutting to the number, I'll have a look back to see their name as they were excellent and well priced.



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Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

Post by TrevorG » Thu Jan 10, 2019 8:01 am

Here they are....might be worth a go as they seem to be able to supply many various types.

https://www.replacementkeys.co.uk



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Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

Post by Kccv23highliftcam » Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:08 am

Yes you are right about the cutting they have 10 "letters" along the shaft, today's machines can only do up to 8 (if you can find a locksmith who does this).
I actually have the Haynes workshop manual for the donor. It seems fairly straightforward to change the switch if it matches (as the mojo only has a steering lock) if not, your looking at the column bracket to make it match up and I guess we all have seen these sort of escalating jobs before.
Thanks for the reply it is very useful.

Cheers
Last edited by Kccv23highliftcam on Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:14 am, edited 1 time in total.


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Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

Post by demonbluedays » Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:12 am

Now I'm actually fully awake:

Unlikely to be a Tibbe key as they were introduced about 1987/88 from memory but, if it is one of the Tibbe ones (that little odd shaped rectangular bladed bottom of the key) tread carefully.

Tibbes generally wear faster than normal cylinder car keys (like GTE ignition keys for example) due to their design, but they also wear the lock down faster as the "steps" on each of the 5 cuts become smoother and harder to read. Had cases where I'd just about been able to read the code for the key (you can just cut them like a normal house key but read the steps coded 1-4, 1 being just tickling the top for the chamfer on the edge to 4 being a deep chamfer all the way down to the little wing that runs along the edge that separates front and back cuts) but the lock has worn so much with the smoothed down key that it's unable to operate on a fresh cut correctly coded one.

If its that worn down, it usually best to replace all the matching locks with new/less worn items and keeping 1 key unused so it's only there to read the cut codes and rotating use of any others you may have to ensure you get the longest life out of the locks and keys.


Just be glad you don't have those pain the "clucking brass" Citroen "Phillips/Cross" keys... as they're cut like a normal car key on both sides of the key and then cut with a different machine top and bottom for the "step cuts" which then have to be ground slightly smooth otherwise you end up with a key that goes in and turns, but then may catch in the lock depending on how worn out the lock is....


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Post by demonbluedays » Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:15 am

Kccv23highliftcam wrote:
Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:08 am
Yes you are right about the cutting they have 10 "letters" along the shaft, today's machines can only do up to 8 (if you can find a locksmith who does this).


Some of the larger/older Timpson branches used to keep their older style machines maintained which did this, but they also have their key workshop in Manchester that has the space and machinery to cut anything, my oddest request being a church key dating from around the late 1300s...Which was bespoke made and cut and cost about 500 quid....


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Ford ignition keys cira '85 ish...

Post by willholderogri » Thu Jan 10, 2019 12:06 pm

demonbluedays wrote:
Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:15 am
Kccv23highliftcam wrote:
Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:08 am
Yes you are right about the cutting they have 10 "letters" along the shaft, today's machines can only do up to 8 (if you can find a locksmith who does this).


Some of the larger/older Timpson branches used to keep their older style machines maintained which did this, but they also have their key workshop in Manchester that has the space and machinery to cut anything, my oddest request being a church key dating from around the late 1300s...Which was bespoke made and cut and cost about 500 quid....

my father in law has two key cutters and a lot of blanks (especially Japanese motorbike keys and the earlier British car door keys ) I have tried using the machine but would have to practice more to get it working properly (there are no instructions with either machine )


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Post by demonbluedays » Thu Jan 10, 2019 6:23 pm

It's a little fiddly to begin with first few times you do it, but trust me it's not as hard as the machine makes it look :wink:


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Post by willholderogri » Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:41 am

demonbluedays wrote:
Thu Jan 10, 2019 6:23 pm
It's a little fiddly to begin with first few times you do it, but trust me it's not as hard as the machine makes it look :wink:

thanks tom
will have to spend some time on it
Will


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Post by Scimher » Sat Jan 12, 2019 7:19 am

Is there any safe way of lubricating the ignition key 'slot' (as the Bishop asked the Actress... :lol: )...ie. 3-in-1 aerosol or even WD40 or similar 'mainenance spray' used through those little red tubes - that always get lost!



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Post by AJL Electronics » Sat Jan 12, 2019 11:39 am

Don't lubricate locks with oil, nor squirt Water Dispersant into them. Locksmiths will recommend only graphite powder.


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Post by demonbluedays » Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:12 pm

Best answer above.

Ever wonders what happens to a lock with copper slip in it?

Short answer....its a bit broken


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