Anyone have a view?

Double yellow lines = Bentley parking only?

Tonight’s teaser: Here we have two selector forks. One has done about 30,000 miles in my spare gearbox. The other is out of the SE5a which has a habit of jumping out of gear. Do I, a) Swap the sideplates and hope for the best. b) Swap the gearboxes because the engine is out and it's a bit easier (th...

Short engine now ready to go in. Next job - gearbox - inspect and replace or repair.

Is this standard for SE6a? My ballast resistor is bolted remotely to the side of the engine bay. Under normal running conditions it provides a resistance to current reaching the coil - thus, it produces heat. Given that most people worry about keeping their coils cool, it seems strange to bolt it on...

Great work Dave!

Blimey - nothing for over a year and then four post at once! . This is the spacer in question.

Just checked - it was 0.024 on the SE6a. That seems to be quieting down nicely!

Has it really been over a year since I did anything on this car? Well yes. Have you ever heard the expression 'stop the world I want to get off'? Some of the reason was down to a distraction called Mr Green .. http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=32842 . I achieved my goal of findi...

For those of you who havn't already seen on Facebook, Mr Green now has a new home with my good friend and fellow nogginer Martin North. Using it 6 times in nearly 2 years really wasn't adequate to keep things ticking over and as I said in the first post, this was a rescue mission and I am sure that ...

Long shot but it has been known (by me) - earth lead deterioration leading to excessive resistance when the starter current goes through it? Easy check - just earth the engine with a jump lead and try starting it.

Don't ignore the coil. They don't move and always look the same but we forget how old they are and they get pretty hot under a Scimitar bonnet. If you get a replacement, make sure it is for the ballast resistor system viewtopic.php?t=26258&start=30

It's an academic point as Roger has already suggested hotwiring and it made no difference but shouldn't you have a Eureka wire OR a ballast resistor?

'Shooting from the hip' here (as you colonials say) as I havn't checked the wiring diagram but last time I had a problem with the ignition light going dim it was simply the bulb itself 'mirroring over' due to age.